Sunbeam Imp Sport - OUH 19M

David Sage · Post by **David Sage** » Tue Aug 16, 2022 3:04 pm

Cheers, worth a thousand words.

Parts for car arrived today, small 90 degree bend for heater, flame trap and I purchased new HT leads. Raining outside, normally would complain but we could do with it. So, maybe later today.

DS

David Sage · Post by **David Sage** » Wed Aug 24, 2022 6:05 pm

I fitted all the parts and now engine and heater seem ok and no leaks.

I have run the car up and down on the drive and seems ok, I had up until now not checked the gearbox oil, I have both filler and drain plug, so I topped up with about half a litre of oil and then pushed the car backwards and forwards.

The car is now leaking out of both drive shafts.

DS

Dave ' Linwood ' Lane · Thu Aug 25, 2022 6:17 am

needs new seals however check the 0 rings in the output shafts / spider bits at the same time

David Sage · Post by **David Sage** » Thu Aug 25, 2022 9:53 am

Good morning,

I’ve ordered new seals, I will also add O rings.

I believe I can change these in situ. Not sure of spelling. With the gearbox in place.

DS

ImpManiac · Post by **ImpManiac** » Thu Aug 25, 2022 11:57 am

Yes, transmission driveshaft seals can be replaced in situ.

It's great to hear that you're making progress.

IM

bazzateer · Post by **bazzateer** » Fri Aug 26, 2022 7:23 pm

Glad to hear you're making progress David. I was nearby yesterday, lunch at the Cams Mill with family.

David Sage · Post by **David Sage** » Tue Aug 30, 2022 3:48 pm

Managed to replace both seals over the long weekend, now only need to fill with oil. But while I have the car on axle stands I thought I would try and find some other rear and front springs to try and get the car to look level when back on the ground.

At the moment I have new monte’s all round. I think they are about 9” 1/2” long when not on the car. It looks like I need longer ones on the rear and shorter ones on the front.

DS

bazzateer · Post by **bazzateer** » Tue Aug 30, 2022 9:29 pm

Hi David,
Try the original springs on the rear but keep the Montes on the front. This is what I have on my Chamois and the 'stance' is just right to my eye.
Baz

20220116_104232.jpg

David Sage · Post by **David Sage** » Wed Aug 31, 2022 12:21 pm

I now have both front and rear springs on the bench. All are new and montes.

Fronts are 9 1/2”

Rear are 8 1/2”

They are montes. The old rear one I took off was 9 1/2” not sure of spring rate. I’ll order 8 1/2” for the fronts and put the 9 1/2” back on rear and see what it looks like.

I will try and remember to take some photos.

We’re they standard montes you fitted.

DS

John A Ross · Post by **John A Ross** » Wed Aug 31, 2022 6:04 pm

David

Spring rating on standard montes is same as standard springs they are just a little shorter.

If you have fitted montes all round you will have dropped both ends of the car so the rake will look the same.

You seen how Baz car sits with monte on front, standard spring on rear, mine sits exactly the same although I have been playing with mine a little as I fitted the coil overs from Mike Dent on the front so have some control over height and rebound.

20211202_155558.jpg

My car previous to that and the one ebfore were same combination, standard springs on front, lower springs on front

PIC-00172.jpg

PIC-08914.jpeg

Like many I also dislike the "feature" speedboat look with nose in the air

bazzateer · Post by **bazzateer** » Thu Sep 01, 2022 10:02 pm

David Sage wrote: ↑Wed Aug 31, 2022 12:21 pm I now have both front and rear springs on the bench. All are new and montes.

Fronts are 9 1/2”

Rear are 8 1/2”

They are montes. The old rear one I took off was 9 1/2” not sure of spring rate. I’ll order 8 1/2” for the fronts and put the 9 1/2” back on rear and see what it looks like.

I will try and remember to take some photos.

We’re they standard montes you fitted.

DS

Standard Montes on the front and standard Chamois Sport on the rear (as far as I know)..

David Sage · Post by **David Sage** » Fri Sep 02, 2022 3:14 pm

Here’s some pictures.

428BA9DB-7538-4C65-BE69-8CCCDBAA5495.jpeg

15938C94-9E27-496B-B55F-43055BE578C2.jpeg

David Sage · Post by **David Sage** » Fri Sep 02, 2022 3:19 pm

Try again

45934519-0488-49E3-B277-75F2B0E6C776.jpeg

moose · Post by **moose** » Fri Sep 02, 2022 3:30 pm

I would advise you leave the springs as they are and get a picture taken of the car with spare wheel, jack, tools, full tank of fuel and two people sat in it before you think about lowering it some more. Do you have adjustable spring platform dampers? Altering ride height alters camber and tracking so needs careful consideration. If the car was fully laden when finished and the front lowers 1 to 1.5 inches and the camber is just and so negative and you track it at 3mm toe in. It will handle fantastic. If you dive in now and lower it on shorter springs without adjustable dampers you could end up 2 to 3 inches lower than it is now and way too much camber which will throw the track out and will require adjusting and it will not handle as well because it will have way too much negative camber. Do you have the rubber cushions on top of the rear springs ?

David Sage · Post by **David Sage** » Fri Sep 02, 2022 5:39 pm

Moose,

Thanks that’s really helpful, good advice. I going to leave it as it is, with the old springs on the rear new springs on front. Also, I have 12” inch wheels on the car at the moment. Next on the list is donuts and then continue with the bonnet.

DS

David Sage · Post by **David Sage** » Thu Sep 15, 2022 3:41 pm

Fitted new head lights to the front and all now working I’ll try and add pictures.

Tried to make local imp meet last night but car once again will not start. There is an over flow pipe in the inlet manifold and petrol is flowing out of this. The car fires but will not run.

Maybe it’s the carb I’m not sure. Any help once again will be helpful.

Thanks.

DS

moose · Post by **moose** » Thu Sep 15, 2022 6:15 pm

That pipe is an air corrector jet as well as a drain in case you floor the car. You need to check the needle valve in float bowl and the float height and fuel pressure being delivered. 1-2 psi pressure is enough.

David Sage · Post by **David Sage** » Thu Sep 15, 2022 6:56 pm

Moose,

Thank you, I now have the carb off and will check. I have a standard petrol pump I don’t know the pressure it works at.

Keep you posted.

DS

moose · Post by **moose** » Sat Sep 17, 2022 8:48 am

Depending on the type of mechanical pump some require a spacer gasket to reduce the lift on the arm and thus reduce the pressure they produce. Can you borrow a fuel pressure gauge of someone? Or buy one https://www.google.com/shopping/product ... Ao#sgro=om you will need a pipe adapter so you can fit the pipe https://www.bearingboys.co.uk/Female-Fi ... AQQAvD_BwE

So something like the two links above do not just order them I just did a quick google to get some pictures to give you an idea you will need to check the barb diameter and the thread sizes or for about £25 you can buy one from amazon.

The Nun · Post by **The Nun** » Sat Sep 17, 2022 8:48 pm

I've just rebuilt an original AC mechanical pump, it produces 2 psi max on the pressure gauge

David Sage · Post by **David Sage** » Sun Sep 18, 2022 8:14 am

Moose and non,

Thanks for the information. The pump is reconditioned pump from Bob and looks like it’s working really well. Once I have fitted new needle valve I’ll see if the engine fires up. If I am back to square one and the engine doesn’t fire up I’ll then check pressure.

I am hoping to get the car on the road this coming week.

DS

David Sage · Post by **David Sage** » Sun Sep 18, 2022 9:06 am

Should be Nun,

David Sage · Post by **David Sage** » Thu Sep 22, 2022 4:49 pm

I have replaced needle valve and should get the carb back on this evening.

I’ll keep you posted.

DS

David Sage · Post by **David Sage** » Thu Sep 22, 2022 8:06 pm

Well the *no expletives please* won’t start. I have no idea why and it’s now dark.

Maybe I should have bought a new carburettor to start with.

Will attack again tomorrow but I am running out of patience it may go back on eBay

bother bother bother.

DS

David Sage · Post by **David Sage** » Fri Sep 23, 2022 2:27 pm

It would appear that I seem to have too much fuel.

Can anyone help with what fuel pressure I should have and how to set up the solex carb regarding fuel level.

Thanks.

DS

Dave ' Linwood ' Lane · Fri Sep 23, 2022 5:40 pm

David Sage wrote: ↑Fri Sep 23, 2022 2:27 pm It would appear that I seem to have too much fuel.

Can anyone help with what fuel pressure I should have and how to set up the solex carb regarding fuel level.

Thanks.

DS

Fuel pressure is small , 1 1/4 to 2 lb IIRC , Float level is altered via a washer under the needle valve between valve and where it screws into - its usually a 1mm thick washer

David Sage · Post by **David Sage** » Sat Sep 24, 2022 8:07 am

Dave,

Thanks for the information. I have 3 washers which came with the needle valve. I will check but I think I used the 1 mm one.

I have the carb off again, so will check.

DS

David Sage · Post by **David Sage** » Mon Sep 26, 2022 10:17 pm

Car is finally running, full choke and gentle with the throttle. It’s very reluctant to run. Second carb was given by Jon Manning many thanks,

I’ll give it a go around the village and see if I can find all the gears. Before I set off do a nut and bolt check to make sure nothing falls off.

I would like to thank everybody for their help.

Once again I’m in the pub.

DS

David Sage · Post by **David Sage** » Wed Sep 28, 2022 5:29 pm

I started the car again today and made some adjustments to the throttle linkage, starts better now and I ran it for a while and once again I noticed water dropping on to the floor as before. I thought I could bypass the heater matrix and run without the heater. So I decided to drain the water and the drain plug has sheared off. I have managed to drill a small hole in the broken plug and will try and remove the broken piece. Thus far no Luck with removing it.

Will try again tomorrow, at least the car was running.

The Nun · Post by **The Nun** » Thu Sep 29, 2022 8:10 am

Drain tap on the engine? They're normally brass so shouldn't seize in place.
Bang a socket onto the hexagon and try, and warming the engine up first might help?

Where's the water appear to be dripping from? If from the thermostat area and youve sealed that already, check the water temp sensor washer is sealing properly, the new washers always appear to large for the job to me.

David Sage · Post by **David Sage** » Thu Sep 29, 2022 8:37 am

It’s the plastic drain plug on the radiator. At the bottom of the rad.

I got it out or should I say my son got it out. I managed to drill a small hole with a centre drill nearly in the middle, followed by slightly larger drill. And then my son got the rest of it out.

Have ordered another from Bob and treating the car to a new coil.

A step closer to driving the car.

DS

moose · Post by **moose** » Sun Oct 02, 2022 11:52 am

Regarding the fuel, if you have tried two carbs and getting same issue could be fuel pressure so check this by fitting gauge into pipe that feeds carb and crank engine over. It could also be a poor spark a weak spark will not create a big bang and burn all the fuel which will make you think it is rich and mess with fuel side of things. Yet the solex is so simple and you have had two on the car highly unlikley they have the same fault. So make sure you have a big spark arriving at the correct time, cam timing is correct and compression is good.

David Sage · Post by **David Sage** » Sun Oct 02, 2022 11:14 pm

Car now starts, full choke and then a little throttle. Runs and sounds ok but I had to stop and remove the water so I could bypass the water heater matrix. Hopefully, drain plug should arrive tomorrow.
I have also treated the car to a new coil. So hopefully slowly eliminating an electrical problems.

Points are ok and I have checked both cam timing and ignition timing several times. The condenser looks new but will replace at some point in time.

Once I can get the car on the road I will hopefully feel a little more confident in its operation.

DS

bazzateer · Post by **bazzateer** » Mon Oct 03, 2022 11:21 pm

Fingers crossed for you David.

David Sage · Post by **David Sage** » Fri Oct 07, 2022 9:26 am

Thanks.

No parts yet. There has been a postal strike earlier this week so maybe stuck in the post somewhere.

DS

David Sage · Post by **David Sage** » Sat Oct 08, 2022 12:18 pm

Parts arrived Friday.

I have given the rad a couple of flush through with water and look came out.

14F51B6D-6565-4067-A384-2AB3EAC7F1D0.jpeg

I was concerned that this would be going around and around in the cooling system, so pleased that it came.

Will install new plug and try and start again later.

David Sage · Post by **David Sage** » Sun Oct 09, 2022 6:52 pm

Managed to get the drain plug in after running a tap gently down the hole. Have added more fuel and for the moment it won’t start, it fired once and now just spins over but won’t fire.

Will attack again tomorrow. It was running before, I still think it’s the carb. I may have to bite the bullet and buy a new carb.

Will add new coil tomorrow.

DS

David Sage · Post by **David Sage** » Thu Oct 13, 2022 9:26 am

Have ordered a set of points and a new condenser, I am hoping that the condenser could be the problem, I get a spark at the end of each lead but its not a big spark. And the condenser may be the issue.. I have used easystart again and the engine doesn’t fire at all.

It can’t harm having new points and a condenser. Condenser looks new but I am lead to believe there are some poor quality ones on the market.

I have checked ignition timing and cam timing again.

No post today so hopefully parts arrive this week.

DS

The Nun · Post by **The Nun** » Thu Oct 13, 2022 9:57 am

If you've got a spark, albeit small, and the engines spinning you'd have thought it would a least cough with a spray of easy start if the rest is set up correctly though?
If the spark is extremely small then that might be being lost under compression.

impmann · Post by **impmann** » Thu Oct 13, 2022 10:37 am

Something to consider - I've had a *lot* of problems in recent years with the key switch either wearing out or failing in other ways. This manifests as weak and intermittent spark, no action from the starter, no action from the coil when starter deployed etc. A bit of electrical fault finding located the root cause.

A simple test - run a flying lead from the coil to the battery, then start the car. If it starts and runs well, then the fault is in the wiring to the coil and experience tells me that the issue will be the switch. Please bear in mind that to stop the engine running, you will need to pull the cable off the battery...

Hope that helps

Uncle Henry · Post by **Uncle Henry** » Thu Oct 13, 2022 11:12 am

I am lead to believe there are some poor quality ones on the market.

This is very true, and there are some people working on this.

UH

David Sage · Post by **David Sage** » Thu Oct 13, 2022 12:29 pm

My only thought is the condenser has packed up.

I’ll try again later today to see if I can get it going. I could take the condenser out completely and see if I can get it to fire up.

Thanks for the input it’s always welcome.

DS

David Sage · Post by **David Sage** » Sun Oct 16, 2022 8:57 pm

Still no parts, so hopefully they will arrive tomorrow.

I will do a couple of checks to make sure I’m getting 12 volts at the coil. The ignition switch on the steering column looks new, it’s certainly not the original one also, key looks new.

I will try and replace some of ignition wiring and chase I as I go.

DS

David Sage · Post by **David Sage** » Mon Oct 17, 2022 7:12 pm

It’s RUNNING finally.

Sounds ok.

I have a small leak by the pipe I used to bypass the heater. Will try and find a suitable pipe tomorrow. The pipe I have used is a copper 1/2” pipe which was for domestic plumbing.

That’s with the new points and condenser.

Cheers. - will keep you posted.

DS

RoyBlunt · Post by **RoyBlunt** » Wed Oct 19, 2022 12:45 am

Well done. Pleased to hear it's running now.

1/2" or 15mm copper pipe is a bit marginal on its own for sealing to rubber heater pipes but works a treat with olives fixed on the ends of the copper pipe. Best to solder them on as you can only fit a compression olive to one end unless you leave part of the compression fitting on the pipe.

Roy

David Sage · Post by **David Sage** » Wed Oct 19, 2022 8:57 am

I have drained the water again rather than use the dents where the old clips were fitted I have moved further along the pipe and that’s seems to be water tight for the moment but but I’ll keep my eye on it. My neighbour came up with the the same idea reference the pipe and olives.

Cars was running with a little amount of smoke but I think that’s how run before, it’s also leaking a little oil from the engine where it meet the transaxle.

Will run again today and finish adjusting the slow running jet.

Thanks once again.

DS

Uncle Henry · Post by **Uncle Henry** » Wed Oct 19, 2022 12:00 pm

Leaky scroll is probably the culprit. Only cured if you have the block and crank machined for a proper seal.

AG

David Sage · Post by **David Sage** » Wed Oct 26, 2022 6:46 pm

Henry,

Do you know of a company that provides such a service.

I had the car running today and adjusted the carb as per the manual and the is now is running well. Keep our fingers crossed.

I inadvertently miss placed the cam cover gasket as I checked the timing once again a few weeks ago. So I have one on order from Bob.

DS

John A Ross · Post by **John A Ross** » Thu Oct 27, 2022 12:02 am

David

Mark Maynard does the kits and can do the machining

2 places it can leak from is the scroll and the sides of the rear bearing cap if the vertical seals have crapped out

https://www.facebook.com/people/Maynard ... 562774866/

Website is half working for me, seems marks web guy is poor but Mark is sheep hot on engines

https://www.maynardenginesltd.co.uk/contact-us

The work is quite invasive though, engine out, complete strip down, only thing left is block and crank, send to Mark or using local place is same start point so better getting Mark to do it as he has done loads rather than local that has done it once.

Perhaps Bob can add more as I think Bob did his own machnining for the kits on his engine.

Three leak points I have had loads of success finding and sealing externally that look like scroll (still needs engine out) but these are all a complete, get me out of the poop fudge. I have found the fudge to last well though

Rear sump flange under rear bearing cap, simply clean very well to degrease with engine tilted to crank pulley end, add some Loctite 5970 on the edges faces working it in then smooth off

Sump stud open ended fixing into block, again clean ends and apply magic goo

Bearing cap vertical flanges up to where it meets the scroll, the return from vertical to scroll especially, same process as above.

I would really think long and hard about how much oil and if it is really worth the effort having the car down for so long and effectively doing an engine rebuild if its a few drips.

If you want to see what I mean you can read Roys thread (African imp) as he has had posted the same issue with a whole heap of repeats it says it all. Roy has left it well alone with newspaper being the answer.

A small drip tray in the garage while static, good oil and filter, you will get many years of happy motoring out it.

But if you have the time and budget to have the engine out, torn down, get rear seal kit fitted by Mark, even order the top/bottom end gasket sets and a double lipped front timing cover seal needed for the rebuild from him, that would be the way to do it properly but anything proper is not cheap

Dave ' Linwood ' Lane · Thu Oct 27, 2022 6:36 am

If the engine doesnt leak oil then theres none in it

, unless its in mug sized quantities id leave as is