Harry Hillman

Neil · Post by **Neil** » Sun Jul 02, 2023 8:38 am

So for now I refurbished the drum brakes and fittied uprated brake pads. I am thinking of fitting 6 inch alloys all round with standard offset. If I should later decide to go down the route of fitting discs all round would I need to then change the wheels to fit?
...or is there a size/fit that will work with both drums and disc brakes?

moose · Post by **moose** » Sun Jul 02, 2023 11:42 am

Hi Neil. So long as you are going 13 inch wheels all disc conversions will fit under wheels. If you have refurbished the brake back plates and overhauled the entire braking system and have Mintex Halo uprated shoes, bed them in correctly you will not need discs unless racing or serious rallying, in fact most of the budget bolt on front disc conversions just overbrake the front and this is especially dangerous if the rears are not working correctly or have decent shoes.

Neil · Post by **Neil** » Mon Jul 03, 2023 11:22 am

Thanks Mike.
Yes going the 13 inch route.
I am sure the overhauled drum brakes will be fine for now but just thinking ahead (maybe just dreaming?) to doing some events that would warrant discs and didn't want to find that I would then need to get some new alloys with a different offset if I can avoid that.

The Nun · Post by **The Nun** » Mon Jul 03, 2023 12:34 pm

Most modern disc conversions keep the same wheel offset as standard, it's only the period Viva one where you keep the Viva hubs does it push the wheels outwards.

Neil · Post by **Neil** » Tue Jul 04, 2023 8:28 am

Fuel tank fitted!

mock up.jpg

Size is slightly smaller than the standard size, I think I calculated it at about 5.3 gallons, baffled and made in 3mm aluminium.
Had a couple of tabs welded on underside to mount the fuel pump and kept the filler off to the side so that it is easier if I want to put some luggage in the boot, just got to make a cover panel for the tank.

Tank arrived.jpg

Ignore the radiator hoses in the above pic. I did toy with the hoses running tight past the fuel tank with some heat protection sleeving on the inside of the inner wheel arches up to entering the cab (and through the sills). But that was not a good idea, …it’s just simpler to keep hoses away from tank and run them along the sides of the boot over the inner wheel arches.
Sometimes it’s easy to get fixated on doing something a certain way which isn’t going to happen!

fuel pump fitted.jpg

trimmed and fitted.jpg

The plate off the front mounts the brake and clutch reservoirs. The bracket was made to take a 3rd reservoir should I upgrade the brakes in the future.

fitted.jpg

The clearance on the fuel pump and hoses to the reservoirs should just be enough to insert ducting on the rear of the radiator down to the spare wheel exit vent.

Just got to fit the breather vent valve.

Neil · Post by **Neil** » Mon Jul 24, 2023 8:23 pm

Heated laminated windscreen now fitted (from Ricky Evans Motorsport) with new rubber seal from Bob. Went with the Ford style heating elements. Fitting the screen wasn’t too bad at all, got some practice in on the rear side windows first. Put way too much sealant in before inserting the chrome plastic trim which did take a while to get in. Then spent ages cleaning off all the sealant that had squeezed out but I suppose at least the heating element is nicely protected.

Back to finishing the dashboard.

Had to adjust some factory standard alignment!

Factory fit!.jpg

I have used rivnuts over most of the dash so it is ‘easier’ to assemble and disassemble.

rivnuts.jpg

ready to fit.jpg

Part installed.jpg

fitted dash.jpg

The weight of the lightened dash is 3.056kg, the original dash was 5.446kg.
A chunk of that weight saving was removal of the ashtray and its frame (0.347kg)
Still have to cut some extra holes for ignition and buttons but trying to keep it as unclustered as possible. Want to fit a radio but that can wait for now

Am I missing something but the steering column is to close to the dashboard? (My tweeked dashboard is within 2mm of original positioning) I could just put a spacer at the bottom of the bracket packing out the clamp onto the column but it didn’t have one before so why now. Currently I can’t even slip on the steering wheel stalk casing.

steering column.jpg

bks974c · Post by **bks974c** » Mon Jul 24, 2023 9:22 pm

Neil

Column position looks right, inner looks a bit long but maybe not full home ?

Scott

Neil · Post by **Neil** » Tue Jul 25, 2023 7:22 am

Thanks Scott
The inner steering column is in correct position and is all connected up to steering rack down below.

IMG_4500.jpg

I have just tried to mock up the indicator stalk again and it does just fit tight to the dash.
Just looking at online pics it does appear correct. Have seen some where a spacer on the bottom of the steering column bracket has been added so thats what I shall do.
The steering wheel does sit quite close to the dash as it is flat. Once I have got the seats in and sitting properly in the car then might have have to relook at whether I need a dished wheel. (I thought I was being clever at the time as this was a deliberate decision as I have silly long arms so was trying to pre-empt a comfy position, Gggrrrr!)

bks974c · Post by **bks974c** » Tue Jul 25, 2023 11:33 am

The spacer is usually to lower the column where the seat have been changed and are lower.

Been down that road with dished vs flat and ended with semi -dish.

Years ago I ordered from Demon Tweek a 14 inch dished, when it arrived it was flat, got them to send the correct one and could they make it a 13". Bit like a library

Scott

Neil · Post by **Neil** » Wed Jul 26, 2023 5:05 pm

Plumbing installed over the last few weeks.

I couldn’t help it but had to do a bit of fiddling on the header bottle mounting bracket:

Header bottle tweeked.jpeg

Have put in silicon hoses. Running 19mm ID through the sills.
They seemed to go in without to much effort, glad I tweeked the back end of the sills when doing the shell as I didn’t have to fuss with the awkward corner at the back end.

It will be close but the header bottle should be just a bit higher than the hoses going across the front wheel arches.
I have inserted a bleed valve in the top hose coming out of the heater to help rid any trapped air there.

From reading other posts on the forum from people who know what they are doing I have added an expansion bottle.

Installed a Davies Craig EWP80. The instructions say not to fix the pump, just hang it off the hoses but that just doesn’t feel right so I intend to mount a small plate underneath to take the weight of the pump without fixing it so the pump is not pulling on the hoses.

rear water plumbing.jpeg

front hoses.jpeg

I have the digital EWP controller as well as a dual oil pressure / water temp guage. (I know its duplication but I am hoping to to put the digital controller out of sight once setup).
I intend to fit the gauge sensor in the front just before the hose inlet to the radiator. Would it be better to fit the digital controller alongside it (at least they should both read the same) or closer to the engine?

bazzateer · Post by **bazzateer** » Wed Jul 26, 2023 5:43 pm

You may be able to fit a spacer between the wheel and the boss? Cheaper than a new wheel.

Neil · Post by **Neil** » Wed Jul 26, 2023 6:03 pm

Thanks bazzateer
That's an option. I think I will have to test fit the seat to see final positioning but it isn't happening where it is now.

Neil · Post by **Neil** » Mon Jul 31, 2023 8:28 pm

Fitting some engine bits this week.

Bought exhaust stainless exhaust from Every Exhaust Part.
14 inch Universal Extra Quiet 5" Stainless Steel Silencer Muffler Box With Extra Baffles, with a clamp on front end and a welded on slash cut exhaust tailpipe 20cm in length which I will later trim to length.

exhaust.jpg

Test Fit copy.jpeg

Spent a couple of hours cleaning and polishing and then welded on a tab for the exhaust bracket.

Polished and bracket .jpg

Alternator fitted and oil cooler fitted. Annoyingly though one of the hoses is just a bit too short so may have to get a longer one made up (I’ve tried an extender fitting but it remains the same shortness!).

Exhaust alternator and oil cooler.jpg

What throttle cable length is best with Webbers?
I was told to get the Imp Sport cable as it is a bit longer but as you can see from the pic it is 30cm to long, do I just need a standard length or is it OK to just cut down the one I installed?
Cable runs along the normal position/route on the underside from the throttle pedal. (I can't check with the car's original cable as that was damaged and binned )

Throttle cable.jpg

moose · Post by **moose** » Tue Aug 01, 2023 7:33 am

cut the outer to correct length. Go to a push bike shop and get a ferrule for the end of the cable. Feed the inner back through and connect up and cut off the excess inner when you have checked you get full throttle with pedal on floor. Be careful you do not strain cable if the pedal does not touch floor and you have full throttle. if you do you may need to fit a throttle pedal stop.

Uncle Henry · Post by **Uncle Henry** » Tue Aug 01, 2023 8:15 am

How quiet is "extra quiet" ?

AG

Neil · Post by **Neil** » Tue Aug 01, 2023 9:19 am

I am hoping 'extra quiet' means I won't have to go and buy some hoodies and start wearing my basball cap back to front when driving the car!

Neil · Post by **Neil** » Tue Aug 01, 2023 10:47 am

Bumpers?
Are the front and rear bumpers identical ? (...besides the different bracket holes and hole in the middle of the rear)

Looking at mine the rear is 1/2" narrower width than the front but they seem so similar that they are supposed to be the same but just made on a different day of the week.

John A Ross · Post by **John A Ross** » Tue Aug 01, 2023 12:48 pm

Neil

The "extra quiet" exhaust is not that quiet and in mine has a nasty drone at particular speeds on the 930, hopefully that will change when the 998 goes back in.

I can do a quick video if you like NEil but if the engine is revved at the abck you wont be having a conversation.

I hunted high and low for a bit to find an offset oval which allows for more silencer in the same space and get the exuit down to where it needs to be under the heat shield.

Gary Mathews has a great tone off his car, I beleive its a modified mini exhaust

.

Uncle Henry · Post by **Uncle Henry** » Tue Aug 01, 2023 1:58 pm

I recently tried a Metro centre box on Stan. Nice fit to the Janspeed small bore, good lengthwise, round case. It was horribly raspy. Awful. So put the Clan Club stainless oval back on. It's not quiet, but it sounds OK,. I'll continue to experiment.

AG

impmann · Post by **impmann** » Wed Aug 02, 2023 11:30 am

Maniflow used to offer a large, internally looped silencer for the Imp that was *quietER* but the challenge is that because there isn't a lot of space under the back of an Imp, you can't get a lot of silencing in there. The downside to silencing inside the engine bay is boom at certain RPM - Janspeeds used to be hideous for this IMHO and the concept of "silencing" was a broad one when applied to an Janspeed on an Imp.

TBH, the quietest exhaust I've ever had on an Imp comprised of a Janspeed manifold, into an Escort Mk3 middle box under the carbs, then a right angle pipe welded onto the outlet. That then fed into an across the back silencer mounted under the rear panel and hung off brackets onto the engine timing case and the water pump bracket - I can't remember what that was, unfortunately. The gasses left on the 'passenger' side of the car via another 90 degree bend with a slash cut end, facing toward the curb. It flowed *beautifully* and was exceptionally quiet. Looked F8ckin horrible, though!!!

Uncle Henry · Post by **Uncle Henry** » Wed Aug 02, 2023 1:06 pm

Looked F8ckin horrible, though !!!

UH

Neil · Post by **Neil** » Wed Aug 02, 2023 7:01 pm

Hoodie it is then!

Thanks for the video offer John ( I saw that I got the same as you) but I shall just wait for the surprise when it fires up for the first time.

Neil · Post by **Neil** » Fri Aug 04, 2023 12:20 pm

I have looked to get my head around the electrics since my posts about it last year but just not confident enough to just 'have a go'.

Am looking at getting a 1966 mk2 Super loom loom from Autosparks which they have in stock, plus 2 wks for any additions (but 8 - 10wk lead time for a 1972 loom)
I will get Autosparks to add an alternator, radiator fan and radio.
Then I have someone lined up to make the necessary updates for fusebox, relays and extra circuits like fuel pump, hazards etc.

What are the differences in wiring loom between a 1966 mk2 Super loom and a 1972 loom ?

I think the 1966 will not have fogs rear heated window and no fuses, anything else? (Not worried about the dash printed circuit connection as putting in individual guages)

John A Ross · Post by **John A Ross** » Fri Aug 04, 2023 2:37 pm

Neil

Huge difference

1966 will be a rootes loom/binnacle dash

1972 will be a chrysler loom, later round clocks dash.

The early binnacle and later round clock dash are completely different connection wise as are the ignition switch and control locations.

The later ones use multiplugs for the connections at the dash end and indicator stalks.

No real easy way to mod a 66 to a 72 loom, you would need to cut the multi plugs of and join them

By the time toy have cut and shut you would have been as well making your own loom, actually less work.

.

Pog · Post by **Pog** » Mon Aug 07, 2023 11:33 am

https://www.autosparks.co.uk/hillman-im ... ness-set-5

This is the one you want and the one I've got in mine. They say mk2, but they really mean mk3 - you can see they confirm it's the printed circuit dash type 68-72. But yes, no fuses so need to be added after. I recall another member enquiring Autosparks to add the fuses while they did the loom and was quoted over £1k and a whole lot more on the lead time. Sounds like you have that covered already though.

Absolutely loving the build, it's really spurring me on with mine!

Pog

Neil · Post by **Neil** » Sat Aug 12, 2023 4:31 pm

Pog, a mutual appreciation society as your build has been great to follow, especially using your pics as a reference when I was assembling the underside of the car.

Thanks for the comments on the loom, nudging me on which way to proceed.

My friend will build a loom from scratch. Along with your wiring diagram John, we have enough of my old loom to form a base reference to start. I’ve drawn up a plan view diagram with measurements of all the runs and list of all components and power requirements we have enough to move forward. I am happy enough fitting the wiring but my friend will make sure the correct spec stuff is used.

Fitting Led lights throughout, bought from ‘Classic Car LEDs’. Any white lights, including headlights I have gone for warm white rather than bright white.
To cleanup the back of the car from extra light fittings I have swopped out the amber top lights lenses for clear ones. Then on the driver’s side I have a dual ‘filament’ indicator & fog and on near side an indicator & reverse bulb.
Using Sealy Superseal water proof connectors for all light connections.

led lights.jpg

I am upgrading my wiper motor to a 2 speed and intermittent. Classic mini motor with the imp gearwheel for correct sweep. Elsewhere on the forum I saw someone had fitted Mazda mx5 2 stalk controls to their clan so I have copied that.
They look fairly period with metal stems and plastic ends. But importantly they take care of lots of controls avoiding lots of extra switches. (Bought used on ebay, much cheaper than a bunch of switches.)

mazda stalks.jpg

To fit the mazda stalks I got my son to 3d print a sleeve /spacer to fit to outer steering column tube.

Following on from my post above, I fitted the driver’s seat to check the position of the steering wheel. My seat and frame sit approx 55mm lower than the standard seat so put in 8mm ali spacer to lower the steering column. I can see the gauges a bit better and feels slightly more space to the dash behind the wheel. This helped to squeeze in the mazda stalks under the dash which are a bit bulkier than the standard imp stalk.

test fit location.jpg

The extra bulk of the circuits and switch gear at the base of the mazda unit, I will trim down any unnecessary protrusions and then get my son to 3d print a slightly bigger version of the imp unit to house it.

bks974c · Post by **bks974c** » Sat Aug 12, 2023 4:58 pm

Neil

The MX5 switch gear was myself, It is a great conversion as it also gives single sweep and intermittent as it is integrated into the assembly.

It took me some time to figure it out and I should have noted what I did to make it work but not my way

What I do remember was it wasn't the lives that were switched but the negative side, which seems to be the way these days, I think the lights were live and ran them through relays.

Scott

Neil · Post by **Neil** » Sun Aug 13, 2023 9:25 am

Thanks Scott, great idea.
Making it work? ...that's why I have someone helping me do the electrics.

johnh875 · Post by **johnh875** » Mon Aug 14, 2023 7:23 am

Thanks for documenting everything so thoroughly Neil, some great ideas going into this car!

Pog · Post by **Pog** » Mon Aug 21, 2023 9:54 am

Neil wrote: ↑Sat Aug 12, 2023 4:31 pm Pog, a mutual appreciation society as your build has been great to follow, especially using your pics as a reference when I was assembling the underside of the car.

Good grief, I feel like I need to make a disclaimer here haha - mine is built entirely on a whim and prayer and I'll be the first to admit I haven't the foggiest idea what I'm doing, this being the first restoration I've taken on, let alone an Imp. Proceed with caution if using mine for reference

Pog

Neil · Post by **Neil** » Tue Sep 05, 2023 9:17 am

I have passed on to my son the steering wheel stalk to finish off.
In the mean time, whilst waiting for the electrics to progress I have been making some carbon fibre bumpers.
I know no bumpers are the lightest but I like the idea of some token protection infront of the front rad which is tight to the front end.

I bought all my carbon fibre making stuff from Easy Composites. They also have some excellent tutorial videos so I won’t bore you with a detailed making process other than a couple of pics.

Made the mould in 2 pieces otherwise the curved ends would lock into the mould.

Making mould.jpg

I used 6 layers of Kevlar sandwiched inside of 4 layers of carbon fibre (2 each side).

Laying up the carbon fibre and kevlar.jpg

Vaccuum bagged during the infusion process.

infusion.jpg

Once out of the infusion process, sanded down and hand applied a more stable UV resin coating then hand polished. If you look more closely there are still some defects in the finish, really it could do with 1 more rub down and coating, but this is not a show car and is fine from 3ft away.

All polished up ready to fit.jpg

My standard chrome bumpers (excluding brackets) weighed in at 1.753kg. My new ones weighed in at 0.607kg and 0.726, (the latter had one more layer of Kevlar and had an issue with the infusion so used a bit more resin).

Front end.jpg

IMG_4672.jpg

It does take time working with this stuff. Just cutting the carbon fibre and kevlar into strips for the 2 bumpers took 3 hrs (and that's with some proper scissors!), about 5hrs laying up, making vaccuum bag and infusion process and then a further day to trim moulding, sanding resin coating x 2 and sand and polish.

Pog · Post by **Pog** » Tue Sep 05, 2023 10:12 am

You sir, are a magician! That is beyond awesome

Are you leaving the carbon finish?

Pog

John A Ross · Post by **John A Ross** » Tue Sep 05, 2023 10:22 am

Thats is cool

.

Neil · Post by **Neil** » Tue Sep 05, 2023 4:10 pm

I'm undecided about leaving the carbon look, when I first put them on and stood back I was a bit underwelmed
Not sure if it suits the car, it's one thing to have some carbon accents inside the car but it might be to much on the outside so I might get some chrome wrap.

bazzateer · Post by **bazzateer** » Tue Sep 05, 2023 10:28 pm

I was going to suggest chrome wrap. Great work.

Neil · Post by **Neil** » Wed Sep 06, 2023 8:46 pm

As well as the bumpers, been working on the engine lid for the last week.
This will definitely be painted.

Used the cut up lid I made way back in the post made Feb ’22.
Just buffed and polished it a bit more before making the mould.
Again, a 2 part mould so the part doesn’t get locked in. As you can see on the bottom edge some filler (white) that wasn't painted came away in the mould so had to do some remedy work

Making mould.jpg

Five layers of 210g carbon fibre around the vent slots and the white patch on the top of the lid is lantor soric core which replaces the inner layers in this area (and thus lighter). Then put 2 extra layers down each side to strengthen the hinge and latch areas.

laying up.jpg

All layed up.jpg

Had a nightmare of a day today: Once laying up the layers and placing all the infusion consumables put the whole thing in the (pink) vacuum bag and then tried to pull a vacuum before mixing up the resin. Had the smallest air leak, could I find it, no chance. After 3 hrs gave up and just made up a new bag, Gggrrr!
If you don’t have a full vacuum then the resin doesn’t pull through all the carbon fibre.
The reason for doing infusion rather than just hand laying up each layer (like working fibre glass) is that it is supposed to be stronger, lighter and thinner because only the correct amount of resin is used to fully wet out the carbon being held under pressure rather than just liberally dousing the resin, well that’s what the experts say.

infusion done.jpg

Unfortunately, because I didn’t get the infusion done till later, it won’t be set before we go away on Friday so will have to wait to see how it turns out.

Does anyone with a painted fiberglass engine lid know the weight of it?

Neil · Post by **Neil** » Sat Sep 23, 2023 10:20 am

Finally got to see the engine cover.
Overall, very pleased but there are defects.

fresh from mould.jpg

Out of mould.jpg

Working with carbon fibre cloth it is incredibly delicate, if you held up a square ft of it by the top corners and only gently shake it, it would fall apart. It drapes well over shapes (using thin 210g cloth) but there is no stretch.
To apply to the mould used a spray adhesive and then carefully lay the carbon cloth over the contours of the mould. The difficult areas were the vent slots, needs care to follow the contours without allowing the cloth to bridge the hollows between the slots. This is what happened in the following pic where the cloth contacted the flat areas before I had pressed into the edges , I could not lift and reset as it would have just pulled the cloth apart so all I could do is make a cut and apply a patch. Not a problem as I am painting but if it was to be left with the carbon look then no good.

defects.jpg

In the pic above, the top edge of the upper vent you can see what looks like an air bubble. This is where the carbon cloth wasn’t laid tightly into the mould so leaving a small void which would fill with (extra/unnecessary) resin. This has been minimized when sanding bigger radiused edges. Being super critical, where this has happened in several places, I guestimate has added maybe an extra 150g to the overall weight.
The simplest way to avoid this (and definitely lighter) would have been to made a mould of a std engine cover with a flat panel and just cut the slots out, but I wanted the slot bevels.

Back of lid.jpg

Check fit.jpg

Weight in this trimmed stage is 1680g, so plus paint and fittings.
From this point it would probably take the same time to prep and paint as to leaving a carbon fibre finish (which would be to sand down with 120grit, 2 or 3 coats of a UV stable resin, sand and polish)

The Nun · Post by **The Nun** » Sat Sep 23, 2023 10:47 am

It's on a par with Mclaren almost now

Neil · Post by **Neil** » Sun Oct 01, 2023 11:53 am

Different generations of CAD!

Gave my son the task of making a 3D printed housing for the mazda steering wheel stalks.
Criteria: to replicate the shape of the imp stalk housing but enlarged to fit the Mazda unit.
His idea of CAD: download scaniverse (free 3D scanning app) onto mobile, use blender software for cleanup and then fusion 350 CAD software.
He still has final tweeks to do before final version but I will have to wait till Christmas when he comes back from uni. I think the enlarged scale looks just a bit to bulky so might need to slim down the casing once clear of the internals.

3d scan of stalks.jpg

Fusion drawing.jpg

test 3d prints of casing.jpg

My idea of CAD is Carboard Assisted …

CAD rad ducting.jpg

The fan (will be controlled by Davies Craig water pump digital controller) is 7inch dia. sitting behind the 6 inch rad so was a bit bit of a squeeze. As the rad is off centre had to the offset the fan poition relative to rad to fit between the front suspension pickup points.

fan offset to fit in.jpg

rad ducting.jpg

Had to modify the bracket holding the brake and clutch reservoirs. It was sitting a bit to low, with the joining hoses from the underside making it to tight to fit the rear panel directing air outlet. So trimmed the ali bracket right down and used some scrap carbon fibre bits to raise up the reservoirs.

Modified reservoir bracket.jpg

fan fitted.jpg

rad ducting fitted.jpg

ImpManiac · Post by **ImpManiac** » Tue Oct 03, 2023 12:04 pm

This is a great build, Neil!

Keep the updates coming.

IM

Pog · Post by **Pog** » Wed Oct 04, 2023 12:12 pm

Cor, look how neat and tidy everything is! This is a first rate build Neil, it's really coming together nicely.

What other builds have you done? You've clearly done this before

Pog

Neil · Post by **Neil** » Thu Oct 12, 2023 6:27 pm

Thanks Paul and Pog. I haven’t rebuilt anything like this before so plenty of learning along the way although many years ago when I raced in Clubmans we stripped my Mallock right back to the bare spaceframe for my friend at IG Racing to make some repairs. We found it needed so many repairs that Ian ended up building a whole new chassis making mods we thought might work along the way, I then fitted out the new chassis.

Been making up some new rear and door cards. The hardboard cards that came with the car are quite tatty (and heavy) so thought I could improve on them. First of all made the rear cards with just 2 layers of 210g carbon fibre. Very light and thin (0.4mm) so very flexi. So when doing the door cards I thought I'd make them a bit stiffer by adding a 2mm core (lantic soric) inbetween the 2 layers. I think I went to far the other way now as they are a bit heavier, but stiffness is good. I am starting to use up bits of fabric so the 2 layers on the door cards are part carbon fibre and part Kevlar.

I am trimming out all cards in the foam backed faux alcantara that I used for headlining and dashboard top. For soundproofing, whilst my panels are not as dense as the original panels hopefully the softness of the fabric will compensate.

door cards and rear cards.jpg

Checking the fit of the rear panels, the carbon fibre on its own looks alright but I don’t want to overdo it, so happy to cover it for the reason mentioned above.

test fit rear trims.jpg

Gluing the fabric on the rear panel. Where the fabric folds over the back I have stripped the foam off. Don’t know if it really makes any difference but thinking it will sit in position more snugly!
This is as far as I go until I get some more glue.

applying fabric.jpg

Had a go at the engine cover, still needs finishing, so now onto the boot lid. Then I can finish and paint both together.

The original boot lid isn’t in great shape with lots of rust on the underside. Chucked filler, primer and then some 2k paint on top over the old paint.

prepping boot lid for mould.jpg

I could see that it had been overpainted in its past and assumed it was long enough ago that it would be stable, wrong! …it really didn’t want to come out of the newly made mould. In the first pic, even with blocks of wood between part and mould it still put up a good fight. 2nd pic shows that I bent it quite a bit to separate.

breaking out of mould.jpg

The old resprayed paint failed dismally, luckily it cleaned off the mould with minimal damage.

cleaning up mould.jpeg

Onto laying up the carbon fibre:
1 layer 210g carbon
2mm lantic soric core in the middle (the white stuff)
several layers of carbon fibre around edge to build up the 2mm core
4 layers/patches of 210g carbon fibre around hinge area
4 layers/patches of 210g carbon fibre on front corners where fitting bonnet pins
For good measure laid kevlar strip in a cross for strengthening in the middle with a 2mm core above
Then a final layer of 210g carbon.

laying up fabric.jpg

Had same issues and frustration as before sealing the (pink) vacuum bag before starting the infusion so ended up sticking the whole thing in a 2nd bag.

infusion.jpg

Neil · Post by **Neil** » Fri Oct 13, 2023 5:15 pm

Fresh out of the mould!

It's not perfect but overall I'm pleased with it. There are some patches where the resin has wetted the cloth enough to solidify it but not enough to flood it and leave a smooth gloss finish. Nothing a touch-up coat of resin won’t rectify.

Still a bit of work to do but the weight is looking promising.

top side.jpg

underside.jpg

Neil · Post by **Neil** » Thu Oct 26, 2023 10:57 am

Trimmed the boot lid down and then went about adding a lip.
There must be more efficient/better ways of doing this but this is how I did it:
Shaped some styrofoam and glued to the underside of lid to act as the former.
Then covered with plastic and (green) release tape.

Prepped ready to lay carbon fibre.jpg

When hand laying the carbon fibre over the edge of the lid and across the styrofoam, unlike glassfibre that stays in shape when wetted through, the carbon fibre wants to spring flat and not hold a tight bend. So some plastic stuck to the topside was used to pull across the top of the wetted carbon and then kept in tension by pinning into the Styrofoam.

Plastic pinned & holding wetted carbon in place.jpg

Once cured hacked out the Styrofoam.

Cleaning up.jpg

Where the hand laid lip overlaps the topside has obviously left a slight lip.
I used 3 layers of 250g carbon tape for this lip (approx 0.75mm thickness), so with a bit of sanding and blending this lip is minimal, nothing a wisp of filler won’t sort when prepping to paint.

Made the boot lid stay bracket from a strip of stainless.
Used some structural strength epoxy adhesive to attach the bracket and also the studs on the engine cover. I think belt and braces, rather than just relying on some glue I will also add a layer of carbon over the contact areas as well.

Fitting all epoxy glued .jpg

Bonnet Weights:
My original (and now destroyed after removing from mould) 11.4kg.
Fibreglass one I had purchased previously (unpainted) 5.94kg
Carbon fibre (inc bonnet stay bracket, exc aerocatches, unpainted) 2.784kg

So I am onto my 3rd version of fixing the boot lid. The time I have spent on this is ridiculas! I always resisted bonnet pins as I wanted to be able to lock the boot. So, version 1: trim down the original triangular catch plate to save weight. Version 2, make a carbon fibre catch plate. And finally I have ended up getting these lockable aerocatches which I didn’t know about earlier. As they are a late addition I hadn’t allowing for brackets to fit the pins when doing the metalwork so some more carbon (again utilized some more scraps left over from failed attempt at making seat base frames).

aerocatches.jpg

What is the thread size of the water temp sensor opening? ...tried a 3/8 but doesn't want to go and I don't want to force it.

thread size.jpg

The Nun · Post by **The Nun** » Fri Oct 27, 2023 4:51 pm

5/8" UNF

Neil · Post by **Neil** » Sat Oct 28, 2023 12:32 pm

Thanks for replying Peter.
After a bit of gentle coaxing this morning , it is a 3/8bsp. It just needed a nice clean thread bolt which I wasn't using.
It's not much room in there and I was nervous of cross threading.

The Nun · Post by **The Nun** » Sat Oct 28, 2023 4:53 pm

Neil wrote: ↑Sat Oct 28, 2023 12:32 pm Thanks for replying Peter.
After a bit of gentle coaxing this morning , it is a 3/8bsp. It just needed a nice clean thread bolt which I wasn't using.
It's not much room in there and I was nervous of cross threading.

Are you sure its 3/8" bsp? It's very close to 5/8" unf

3/8" bsp 19 tpi x 16.66 od

5/8" unf 18 tpi x 15.87 od

I have it as 5/8" unf on my details but if your thread was clogged / corroded I can quite see you could run a 3/8 bsp tap down it and it would cut it to that.
But anyway if your sensor now fits securely and doesn't leak youre ok, and as you've clean it to bsp it's no good now fitting unf anyway.

bks974c · Post by **bks974c** » Sat Oct 28, 2023 5:08 pm

Not 100% on this but I believe the temp sender is 3/8 bsp and the take off 5/8 unf.

Scott

Neil · Post by **Neil** » Sun Oct 29, 2023 5:03 pm

Thankyou both.
I got myself properly muddled up as I was using a Smiths gauge adaptor (which had 5/8 unf and a 3/8bsp on each end and the wrong end was fitting the sensor more easily) to test fit. Luckily haven't messed up threads.
Anyhow, my car is temp sensor 5/8unf, take-off 3/8bsp.

Neil · Post by **Neil** » Wed Nov 08, 2023 10:21 am

So after getting my head around which thread is which I ended up putting both water sensors locations in the front end.
I am fitting a duel mechanical oil pressure and water temp gauge. Also using the Davies Craig digital controller which will be placed lower down on the dash as don’t want to be looking at a digital display (not a period look, …unlike all the carbon fibre everywhere!)

cooling sensor location.jpg

Then with the oil pressure sensor, fitting a (1/8npt) t-piece to connect the warning light pressure sensor and oil pressure gauge line. Unfortunately with the t piece the pressure gauge line fouls on the distributor casing so I need to get another t-piece to t off the other outlet.

Sorting Oil pressure gauges.jpg

Finally starting the wiring loom.
My friend dropped off 3 bundles of wiring: front end, back end and engine senors.
I am happy to be doing the installation with my friend doing the design to make sure it is safe and correct.

Battery location is on the floor behind driver’s seat. Fusebox and relays will be mounted in passenger footwell on inside of wheel arch.

Wiring going in!.jpg

The front end loom is mostly 11A thin wall cable except the rad and heating fans and fuel pump which are 2mm, helped by the fact that all lights are led. Only the heating fan, horn and lights are locally earthed, everything else is being earthed back through the loom to 1 earth point.
For protection, end tails I have used heatshrink and then roundit 2000 (self wrapping braid) to protect the bundles of wire.
I have put in 2 spare unused wires, 1 going to each side, just in case for whatever reason in the future.

front end wiring.jpg

Front loom.jpg

I can see why people enjoy doing the wiring. I enjoy what I am doing but just not confident enough to do the design itself. It just takes time, … but then everything I do seems to take (to much) time!