68 stiletto Restoration

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Sun May 24, 2015 11:43 am

As the inner arch just seemed to get worse the more I cut it and as there are no corners on them and that does seem the hardest part to fabricate I started on them and have taken Scotts lead and made up my own . I was very naive to think they would just fit

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Sun May 24, 2015 11:46 am

Checking fit

The Nun · Post by **The Nun** » Sun May 24, 2015 11:50 am

Its because youre having to sort out double curvatures always a lot harder to fabricate without a metal stretcher, stick at it youre getting there, it will look jolly good once done Im sure if that.

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Sun May 24, 2015 11:51 am

I will do both corners then fill in the middle as I don't have roller it may have to be made up in sections any suggestions from you out there that have already been this route would be appreciated

The Nun · Post by **The Nun** » Sun May 24, 2015 12:00 pm

No reason why you cant make it up from small sections, once its weld and ground flush you wont be able to tell anyway, and beside the specialist who make those one off alloy bodies do the complicated shapes in exactly that way, it looks like a patchwork quilt until its all buffed up then you wouldnt know.

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Sun May 24, 2015 7:41 pm

Hi after the arch I am going to fix the bodge at the top of the wing but I can't find any photos showing the bit near the door opening there is rain channel that starts their but were exactly I don't know if anyone has a photo of an original they could post that would be great

cov_climax · Post by **cov_climax** » Sun May 24, 2015 9:42 pm

There isn't any mechanical join at that point, the wing has a return lip, and so does the scuttle, but they're not welded together just sealed, there was no access to spot weld them so the factory couldn't even if they wanted to.

If you look at Colin's restoration (see link below) you can see the top of the wing, the scuttle just lips inwards then down.

http://theimpclub.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f ... &start=240

Superb work by the way.

Edit to add, I realise now you're after the gutter detail, the thread above does show that as well. It's also worth looking at page 2 on pete's van 'percy' thread as there are some useful pics of bits you can't normally see.

Brian

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Mon May 25, 2015 9:38 am

Thanks for the link to the pest shows that section being repaired very clearly and thanks to Colin for posting his restoration. Which is so detailed it help others like me

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Tue May 26, 2015 1:38 pm

Part welded front corner inner today to put a bit of rigidity into front wing

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Tue May 26, 2015 1:43 pm

Also inner at the bottom of the A panel and welded in a section under door bolt plate.Made up full arch to fit in between, just the outer lip

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Tue May 26, 2015 1:49 pm

Bottom of wing just resting on top of inner no more time start work at 2pm

bks974c · Post by **bks974c** » Tue May 26, 2015 8:53 pm

Gary

It would certainly be worthwhile investing in a shrinker/stretcher for doing the curved sections.

Scott

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Wed May 27, 2015 5:30 pm

Inner arch ,well got the best of me today nothing fit well, had to walk away went for butty cup of tea, came back fit 1 section of arch but wasted day really

bks974c · Post by **bks974c** » Wed May 27, 2015 9:47 pm

I bought mine on ebay from UK supplier for about £100 but can't see anything on there just now however this does not look too bad and having two units would be advantageous as mine is a 2 in 1 so time often spent changing the jaws.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Eastwood-Shee ... 541e4ac3c5

Scott

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Thu May 28, 2015 4:59 pm

First 2sections are welded in and fit is quite good hope to do better on 2nd half as have changed method we learn as we go not very good pic in rush late for work

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Fri May 29, 2015 9:19 am

Just want it to be safe ,sound and usable for some years to come if I do it well it will do me well

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Fri May 29, 2015 9:50 am

I am an engineer by trade its not in me to repair it wrong, just me, may be overkill sometimes but that's it I can understand someone just welding it up to get it on the road and I dont see anything wrong in that but you have seen some of the welding on this car and for my own safety I have to look behind some sections so as you have said if I pull it apart its just as easy to put it back as original as I can I am not naming anyone on here but where this car came from they have a lovely imp they restored but I would not want to drive it seeing the standard of this one

MattorMatty · Post by **MattorMatty** » Fri May 29, 2015 7:00 pm

Good work Gary,
I feel your pain as I'm currently redoing the previous repairs to the metal work on my Sport.

Matt

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Fri May 29, 2015 7:12 pm

Its soul destroying but if you think you can't make it any worse .keep going you'll feel very satisfied when you're done

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Sat May 30, 2015 12:43 pm

Tacked some support pieces to hold arch rim in correct place

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Sat May 30, 2015 12:48 pm

Then made up I curved sections used the arch I cut up .So it did fit after all ..
lol

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Sat May 30, 2015 12:50 pm

Kept checking that nothing had moved

The Nun · Post by **The Nun** » Sat May 30, 2015 1:51 pm

I know its a bit of a pain and it can get in the way, but I would keep the door on wherever possible whilst dealing with the outer panel fit around the door aperture, either that or take loads of cross measurements, doesnt take much to put the door swage line out, even the factory messed up on the later IMPs, some doors were a dreadful fit.

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Sat May 30, 2015 2:23 pm

It will be going back on before final fit still need it off to fix drip channel at top plus need to make up some shims its a bit tight at top by wing
The advise is appreciated

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Sat May 30, 2015 2:57 pm

Wow that's terrible I can't believe they passed it for the photo shoot

pbergs · Post by **pbergs** » Mon Jun 01, 2015 3:16 pm

Ha! Someone went round my car at a show recently making those sucking noises that builders make when they condemn your house. I asked was something bothering him . He said.. 'Well it's all wrong'...he could see I was crestfallen then he smiled and said 'you see the clearances between the door and the wing? Well they are straight...they were never straight!' He then turned and walked away. Damned for for a decent job.

pbergs · Post by **pbergs** » Tue Jun 02, 2015 10:13 am

When I bought my original Stiletto , the boot lid would not close without taking off some paint, the bonnet kept flipping open , it overheated and the mirrors continually moved back at speed. That was considered a good one!

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Wed Jun 03, 2015 5:30 pm

Finished inner arch today , not perfect but very pleased with the result glad you lot encouraged me to have a go only 3 to do !!!

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Sat Jun 06, 2015 8:36 am

Started to put this right,found this behind don't recognise it but not got all the parts yet .Intended to leave the wing intact but the end of the scuttle was rusted out and until I cut a section out of the wing I could not see how it was constructed now I see it is a double bend on top of the wing and then folds down behind the wing and welds to the inner scuttle panel this construction prevents water running out of the joining faces . very clever design the imp as I press toolmaker i can tell you someone has given this serious thought
Could anyone identify the part I have acquired

cov_climax · Post by **cov_climax** » Sat Jun 06, 2015 9:25 am

The bar with captive nuts goes in the scuttle to hold the steering column top bracket bracket. It has walked from one side to the other when you've rolled the car on the spit.

It can be refitted easy enough from inside the car on drivers side.

Brian

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Sat Jun 06, 2015 1:39 pm

Thanks Brian do you think this door is repairable its not good all along the bottom

ImpManiac · Post by **ImpManiac** » Sun Jun 07, 2015 8:50 pm

Don't take my word for it!

But that looks repairable to me. I think I've seen similar damage fixed before on this or another forum.

Might as well have a go, eh?

IM

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Thu Jun 18, 2015 8:59 pm

Bin on holls but back to it now, cut a bit more out so I could work inner scuttle was very thin where outer spot welds to so cut it out you can see it on right had side

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Thu Jun 18, 2015 9:00 pm

The bits

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Thu Jun 18, 2015 9:02 pm

Made and welded new inner

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Thu Jun 18, 2015 9:05 pm

Made new outer from a good piece I cut out of the rear wing so could say its original

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Thu Jun 18, 2015 9:09 pm

For anyone who has not done this section this is how the water runs down the back and not through the joint not perfect but a good try in the design

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Thu Jun 18, 2015 9:12 pm

Checking fit

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Thu Jun 18, 2015 9:13 pm

Rust protection before welding

ImpManiac · Post by **ImpManiac** » Fri Jun 19, 2015 12:20 pm

Your fabricated repair sections fit really nicely.

Also it is interesting to see the internal structure. Keep up the great work.

IM

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Wed Jun 24, 2015 2:19 pm

Got a bit more done today also repaired the drip channel that was Missing above the wing it was a bit tricky due to the lead loading in that area plus i had to make it twice as big then grind it back just to hold it in place.I painted and seam sealed everything behind the wing before welding it in should keep it dry for a bit

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Wed Jun 24, 2015 2:24 pm

Looking more like an imp now

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Thu Jun 25, 2015 2:54 pm

Fitted the door back on today needed 1mm shim on bottom hinge fit was OK swage lines were good rear wing and rear window line parallel if a bit tight could do with moving forward about a 1mm but catching on corner of new scuttle edge at top swage line may need to just fettle each side a little. Worst is bottom of a post slight taper down to door but door is not straight and has been repaired before and makes it look worse than it is but when I repair it I can build it up slightly so bit of work to do but not too bad ,also top rear corner of door is not flush about 5mm out but have seen posts where this is just bent back into shape? Any suggestions would be appreciated

cov_climax · Post by **cov_climax** » Fri Jun 26, 2015 12:01 am

A Point that is worth taking on board is that whilst the doors need to fit the aperture, and the sewage line etc all match up, you won't be able to finalise the hinge adjustment until the door has all the glass and fittings in it, the weight can significantly affect the alignment.
Also the shell will move slightly once fully fitted out and on its wheels compared to being on a turnover frame.

I actually bent the hinges with a large adjustable spanner to align the doors, but mine might have been more pliable due to the holes and cut-down form I gave them.

Cheers
Brian

Dave ' Linwood ' Lane · Fri Jun 26, 2015 12:39 pm

cov_climax wrote: and the sewage line etc all match up,

Bet they start out shite but get better

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Fri Jun 26, 2015 1:07 pm

I would hate to put the door back on to a freshly painted car there not the easiest to get shims in. It does seam tight in places see what you think

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Fri Jun 26, 2015 1:10 pm

OK here

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Fri Jun 26, 2015 1:13 pm

About 6 to 8mm at top

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Fri Jun 26, 2015 1:15 pm

Tight on corner

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Fri Jun 26, 2015 1:25 pm

Contour of door to body looks ok