A Californian drying out in South Africa

[The Nun]

Doesn't happen with me either, but if you check into the forum each day you can see the responses to your posts, so maybe it's to encourage more folk to log in more regularly.

[African Imp]

Doesn't happen with me either, but if you check into the forum each day you can see the responses to your posts, so maybe it's to encourage more folk to log in more regularly.

I am now advised that the issue has been corrected but I notice that your comment did not activate a notice to same.

[The Nun]

Do you need to know though Roy really? If you check in regularly you'll pick up messages anyway especially if you're sort of expecting some.
If the issue has been sorted maybe you need to delete the forum and reload it again to activate the mod?

[African Imp]

Do you need to know though Roy really? If you check in regularly you'll pick up messages anyway especially if you're sort of expecting some.
If the issue has been sorted maybe you need to delete the forum and reload it again to activate the mod?

Nothing seen, so the issue was not sorted by the forum manager, oh well it is what it is!

[African Imp]

I see on the Hillman Imp forum a discussion about a none standard distributor cap and rotor.

In June 2020 I was asking similar questions, more specifically about the copy pattern rotor, ( top left in picture ) The Nun commented that the copy one is rubbish. Its 1mm longer that the Lucas original one.

I then swopped back to the genuine Lucas one, including the points and a cap, all used but they do work as intended!

Then I checked out all points and rotors that were genuine Lucas and put them to one side for future use, the points in my picture are actually new.

[The Nun]

Its the rivet bit that's no good they might work as intended for a while but that while is a not guaranteed while like the fully moulded one, but then again you can't beat the original Lucas stuff for quality made when Britain was properly Great.

[African Imp]

Its the rivet bit that's no good they might work as intended for a while but that while is a not guaranteed while like the fully moulded one, but then again you can't beat the original Lucas stuff for quality made when Britain was properly Great.

My search for genuine Lucas parts also came up with condensers, worth plenty to me with what I have discovered.

Today the trade name Lucas is used on green cartons but the contents are not Lucas quality now.

[The Nun]

The Chinese will produce anything for a fee, they aren't bothered about copyright and threats of being sued, it goes straight over their heads, they even produced a good copy of the Range Rover and Land Rover couldnt do much about it, they couldn't care less, they're big enough not to worry about what anyone else thinks.
Anything that sells they will make to bring in funds, it might be rubbish but dubious traders still buy it to sell on e bay for anything they can get away with.

[Uncle Henry]

True to a point. However, I've been told that if you ask them to make something at a price they have quoted, you're more likely to get a decent product. However, if you go to them and tell them what you're prepared to pay (some of the less salubrious tool company's go this route) you'll be buying a load of shite. As in all walks of life : You get what you pay for.

UH

[African Imp]

The Chinese will produce anything for a fee, they aren't bothered about copyright and threats of being sued, it goes straight over their heads, they even produced a good copy of the Range Rover and Land Rover couldnt do much about it, they couldn't care less, they're big enough not to worry about what anyone else thinks.
Anything that sells they will make to bring in funds, it might be rubbish but dubious traders still buy it to sell on e bay for anything they can get away with.

Those cartons are made to look like the Lucas ones, the packed product ( globes not the flashers ) just does not match Lucas anymore.

I see that Lucas even date their products, on the distributors also, coils as well!

[African Imp]

Rotors are not the same it seems?

The red one and from Distributor Doctor on the 45D4 sits higher than the Lucas one on the 25D distributor.

[The Nun]

25D and 45D are different distributors though, different contacts, different caps, different bodies and base plate.

[African Imp]

25D and 45D are different distributors though, different contacts, different caps, different bodies and base plate.

With the 45d its a cheaper design to produce, there is less metal, the cap spring clips are half the length on the 45D etc, sort of a Chrysler thing?

[The Nun]

Sales brief was a distributor that was more waterproof than the 25D, and that is was much better sealed but everything else was cheapness and some the points mounting wasn't even positively retained with screws, it was just wedged in.
Best to get a 25D for quality and fit a rubber waterproof boot over the cap, which was a solution used by many on the mini where the distributor was directly behind the grille where it got all the head on weather, very poor design, but strangely never mentioned like it would have been if the Imp was like that.

[Uncle Henry]

Rubber covers were available for the crap mini/1100/1300 etc etc design. Trimmed up rubber gloves often used by the less wealthy/meaner owner. Can't say I ever had an issue on my Imp, save for weather related dampness. Spindle wear, heal wear and closed up points, weather, naff vacuum units, crap condensers/caps/rotors etc no longer a concern since I went the EDIS route.

UH

[African Imp]

Sales brief was a distributor that was more waterproof than the 25D, and that is was much better sealed but everything else was cheapness and some the points mounting wasn't even positively retained with screws, it was just wedged in.
Best to get a 25D for quality and fit a rubber waterproof boot over the cap, which was a solution used by many on the mini where the distributor was directly behind the grille where it got all the head on weather, very poor design, but strangely never mentioned like it would have been if the Imp was like that.

Your right, the design with its internal lip will be more waterproof.

The position of the distributor on a Mini was take it or leave it? like in the UK it never rains?

[African Imp]

Two distributors, I think I have seen a foam insert in the top of the spindle before, was it a factory item, its not in Haynes or the WSM 141 manuals.
That foam and its oil is now in my cars 25D distributor but I am not sure it serves any purpose?

Found a mention to an oil pad on an Austin 3000 group.

The cam itself fits over the spindle of the main distributor shaft - and
this spindle bearing is where you will find MOST of the lateral wear on eg a
BJ8 i.e. 25D distributor. This is the 'bearing' which requires most regular
maintenance - and failure to do so effectively causes many advance related
issues. To lubricate, you remove the rotor button, which exposes a screw -
and WITHOUT removing the screw, you put in a couple of drops of oil. DM6s
have a felt pad - 25Ds don't. The oil will run down a tiny groove in the
shaft spindle, over time, and lubricates the inside of the cam/ shaft
spindle. Now replace the rotor - make sure it is correctly seated. You still
need to lubricate this if you have a Pertronix. The cam is constantly
rotating back and forth on the distributor spindle - controlling
the mechanical ignition advance - so it still needs to be lubricated.

[African Imp]

Rubber covers were available for the crap mini/1100/1300 etc etc design. Trimmed up rubber gloves often used by the less wealthy/meaner owner. Can't say I ever had an issue on my Imp, save for weather related dampness. Spindle wear, heal wear and closed up points, weather, naff vacuum units, crap condensers/caps/rotors etc no longer a concern since I went the EDIS route.

UH

I have seen the distributor rubber boots on Morris and Austin FWD cars in Cape Town before.

Seen here and at 17.50 pounds from Mini Sprint UK.

[The Nun]

Mine had a felt insert from new in the top under the rotor arm that you applied a few drops of oil at a service, it supposed to run down the stem and lubricate the weights, my later 45D points on my Sport had a felt pad too that applied oil to the cam to stop points heel wear and noise.

[African Imp]

Mine had a felt insert from new in the top under the rotor arm that you applied a few drops of oil at a service, it supposed to run down the stem and lubricate the weights, my later 45D points on my Sport had a felt pad too that applied oil to the cam to stop points heel wear and noise.

Thanks, that answers that question! seems that I have seen it before ?

Its easy to make some with a hole cutting tool, per each dizzy will work fine.

This unit came from Bob at The Imp Club spares to use on my Californian's original engine which is a sport specification.

The one that It was using went into the new engine now in the car.

[The Nun]

Early genuine Lucas contacts had a slotted post that a piece of felt slid into to keep the cam mildly lubricated as well.

Screenshot_20240220_133511_Google.jpg

[African Imp]

Early genuine Lucas contacts had a slotted post that a piece of felt slid into to keep the cam mildly lubricated as well.
Screenshot_20240220_133511_Google.jpg

None of my Lucas original points have that!

What I did find was a rotor that is as well made as the Lucas ones, it has the letter B on it and numbers 118, what caught my eye is the area where the carbon brush makes contact, its not worn to shape its been machined that way.

I have just cleaned and oiled the rotor.

[The Nun]

B for Bosch

[Uncle Henry]

I have just cleaned and oiled the rotor.

This might lead to unwanted tracking to earth.

AG

[African Imp]

B for Bosch

Good guess but there is no sign of the round logo that Bosch use, plus most Bosch parts like caps and rotors I have seen over here were in a brown plastic.

This rotor is not branded, so it can be from anywhere but seems well made.

[African Imp]

I have just cleaned and oiled the rotor.

This might lead to unwanted tracking to earth.

AG

Meaning the oil? its actually Fluid Film which is based on Lanolin, I will be cleaning it and spraying with a clear lacquer before use.

Fitted it works at least as well as the one removed!

[African Imp]

I see that Lotus Ford chose the Lucas system too, this was at Silverstone in 1967.

The caption said that this was Jim Clarks car.

The same type of sports coil I have, the rest is a wish!

[The Nun]

Well at least it's a good start Roy, you've got your first component towards your objective, do you think it will fit without having to cut the parcel shelf?

[African Imp]

Jean fancied a drive in the Imp to her old home which was on Glen Beach near Camps Bay, nice day too!

[The Nun]

Is that where the bikini wearing Stiletto dollies live?

[African Imp]

Is that where the bikini wearing Stiletto dollies live?

Well there were plenty of girls with bikini's on today but the ones you may mean were at the Gordons Bay Bikini Beach?

[African Imp]

The run today was not quite an hour as Jean and I went down to see her old home, it was a good test for the engine mind you, decent coastal roads, Camps Bay traffic, then a Police control on the return trip due to a traffic accident.

Plug looks clean, number two bore, too clean so I will make the Stromberg it came from a half turn richer .

Number three was sooty number four was good, is this down to the Champion N9YC spark plug or the ignition lead?

The temperature stayed in the center of the white section on the gauge, this is with a Mk1 radiator fitted, serviced and cleaned, its always worked well for me.

[African Imp]

Driving to Glen Beach yesterday took us along the coastal road and onto Victoria Drive which runs right through Bakoven and Camps Bay, being mid day and a Friday it was quite busy!

Glen Beach is at the far end of what is Camps Bay beach and where Jean grew up!

[Uncle Henry]

Half a turn richer ? I only ever go in very small increments, 1/8th of a turn. It's not so far out, is it ? The sooty no.3 compared to no.4 could just be a small amount of oil leaking past no.3 rings, perhaps ? If the plugs were suspected, then swapping 3 and 4 would prove or confirm that it's a plug difference. It's running pretty good, I'd say, and allowing for differences in tolerances, inlet tracts, mixture, plugs, cylinder total capacity etc I'd leave it be.

AG

[African Imp]

Half a turn richer ? I only ever go in very small increments, 1/8th of a turn. It's not so far out, is it ? The sooty no.3 compared to no.4 could just be a small amount of oil leaking past no.3 rings, perhaps ? If the plugs were suspected, then swapping 3 and 4 would prove or confirm that it's a plug difference. It's running pretty good, I'd say, and allowing for differences in tolerances, inlet tracts, mixture, plugs, cylinder total capacity etc I'd leave it be.

AG

Thanks on your comments.

I have already done a half turn richer on the carb that looks too lean and a half turn leaner on the carb serving the piston that looked too rich.

Another drive, say up Chapmans Peak Drive tomorrow, then a plug check after that will give me an idea of whats right and whats wrong?

Sunday, short drive around the local area to warm the engine up, I then needed to screw in the screw to the throttle control, so I have leaned things off?

[African Imp]

Coolant is still the Caltex Extended Life stuff, works well for me!

[African Imp]

Petrol Prices in South Africa, the exchange rate is around R24.45 to one Pound?

Coastal January Official February Official
93 Petrol R21.45 R22.20
95 Petrol R21.77 R22.52
Diesel 0.05% (wholesale) R19.91 R20.64
Diesel 0.005% (wholesale) R20.04 R20.74
Illuminating Paraffin R14.38 R14.91
LPGAS (per kg) R34.57 R34.94

So my R100 worth of 95 octane that I bought yesterday gave me 4.44 litres of fuel, the tank indicator did not move much!

[The Nun]

I quite like the sound of illuminating paraffin, who's bright idea was it to call it that?
Does it go with glowing diesel and sparkling petrol?

[African Imp]

I quite like the sound of illuminating paraffin, who's bright idea was it to call it that?
Does it go with glowing diesel and sparkling petrol?

I guess its the difference between heating and lighting paraffin?

Many in this country have low access to electricity and lamps with paraffin are common?

[The Nun]

I remember my dad in the 60s lighting up a paraffin heater that went under the car engine in winter to stop it freezing up, even as a kid I thought it was a dangerous idea lighting a fire under your car

[African Imp]

I remember my dad in the 60s lighting up a paraffin heater that went under the car engine in winter to stop it freezing up, even as a kid I thought it was a dangerous idea lighting a fire under your car

Was it a flat thing, as I think my dad had one for his 1953 Morris Oxford side valve engine.

This is the car, that is myself behind the rear door, dads garage was the first one.

[The Nun]

Screenshot_20240224_135115_Facebook.jpg

[African Imp]

Screenshot_20240224_135115_Facebook.jpg

Yes, thats the one!

I wonder what happened to my dads one?

[African Imp]

I needed a small top up of oil, nothing to do with the drive to Glen Beach, just the normal bedding in process?

Say 1/8" on the dip stick, a cup full?

I have used this grade of Shell oil in my Imp engines for many years, works for me.

[African Imp]

Todays fun is a loose water pump pulley ( again ) its the shaft on the pump more than the pulley, the nut was super tight, so it may be both.

My notes tell me that I fitted this pump in June 2020, new seals, new bearings which I packed with Wynns marine grade grease on one side of the bearing. Pulley had a wobble, it still does!

My safe fix for now is to use Loctite 648, a gap filling liquid used for fitting 998cc block liners.

I have tried to avoid this for now but the day has come!

As this pump was fitted with new seals and bearings and at this moment does not leak, lets see how long I can carry on using it?

[The Nun]

I imagine everytime you remove the pulley you're bound to remove some of the fit tolerance, so the more times you change the pump over the years and slacker fit the pulley becomes?
Although the ones I've removed have become so rusted in place you need a blow torch to heat the pulley so it comes off without using undue force that distorts the pulley flanges and or the shaft thread which is made from soft mild steel so it goes rusty fast.

[African Imp]

I imagine everytime you remove the pulley you're bound to remove some of the fit tolerance, so the more times you change the pump over the years and slacker fit the pulley becomes?
Although the ones I've removed have become so rusted in place you need a blow torch to heat the pulley so it comes off without using undue force that distorts the pulley flanges and or the shaft thread which is made from soft mild steel so it goes rusty fast.

Exactly! I am trying to make the best of what I have which is based on old parts, some not so bad?

The pulley being loose can be sorted with the Loctite 648 but once in place I also need a blow torch to remove it, which is why I have tried not to use Loctite.

For me it is what it is and getting parts here is now more expensive than buying them, a delivery of a British Seagull engine block was quoted by Fedex last week at 136 Pounds! The block was just 50 Pounds, needless to say I did not buy that block.

[African Imp]

On the assumption that I will eventually fit another water pump, one of the assemblies I have here ready made up has a new impeller and shaft, a pully I have is larger than the rest but the center hole is like new, its a tight fit on the new shaft.

Why is the pulley larger ? its 5 1/4" so 3/8" larger than normal?

Metric 135mm against 123mm .

[African Imp]

With a new shaft, it would be amiss if I did not use this one?

The shaft came in as a water pump kit, a new shaft fitted to a used impeller, excepting the impeller was in the wrong position!

I moved it 6mm and to the right position before assembly.

It was bought from a regular Imp parts supplier in the UK too!

[oli]

£136 to ship an engine block from the UK to South Africa (assuming it actually shows up) sounds pretty reasonable to me...