Oooo yeah!
Forgot about that one. I'd even posted something about certain pull switches to avoid (cheap/bad quality).
Oooo yeah!
Yer but you are much neater.Dave ' Linwood ' Lane wrote:Sounds complicated but very good , your as mad as me re. electrics
cov_climax wrote:Hi Peter, hope you are well?
Putting the lights in the lid has the added advantage of fooling the rest of the population that your car is on its side - when you're roadside in the dark with engine lid up tweaking the beast.
Brian
Not such a bad idea . Save banging my head when working on it too. And i wouldn't have to put the lid down when raising it on my ramps (low garage roof)The Nun wrote:You could split the engine lid half and half so it opens like a book then the lights would be vertical each side when open, folk might think it was a bus in the dark then and give you more room
Yes that's more the case with water based coolant ..the pressure raises the boiling point. Evans boils at 180 C so you already have more head room than water @ 10 psi.moose wrote:I have never been able to make my mind up about EVANS. I prefer the idea of some pressure to pack the coolant onto the hot areas inside the engine. From all the info i have read and what i have learned is if there is the correct amount of pressure to allow the water to flow efficiently and keep it packed onto the back of the exhaust valve seats it will remove more heat and prevents localised boiling .
Yes I think you are right. But that said I haven't tried it in a std Imp system and I don't know anyone who has.617sqn wrote:So, basically what we are concluding here then is that Evans can be a superior product, over and above standard water/antifreeze, but ONLY if there are significant additional modifications. Therefore more suited to an Imp specifically modified throughout for competition work ?
A bit of a tortuous route to take for the average punter with only light personalisation of his steed, me thinks. I'll stay with Bluecol and a temperature gauge !
Andy G
Dave,Dave ' Linwood ' Lane wrote:Interesting and informative .
So now its been like this for a while do you think the reverse ram air flow a better system than standard , is this more suited to a Clan or do you think a standard imp would benefit .I see lots of development going on here.
Thanks for posting
Yes that short black bell crank rod is the internal door lock latch. If your beams have the weld-on boss the system would be easy to reproduce.ylee coyote wrote:Oh my your door beam is a bit rusty! Mine must have been replaced at some time ...
On picture 8 there is a rod going to a bell crank with a Black metal pin attached ,I am assuming that is the internal lock ?
Mine is missing ....
I've used one of those £5 solenoids to open the front boot with a remote fob on both Smart roadster and Clan and they are very reliable. I've been thinking about door poppers too ...ie doors actually pop open with a remote ...not just unlock.ylee coyote wrote:Cheers ! ,My drivers door beam is in remarkably good condition with no rust at all ,I suspect it was replaced at some time as the passenger door beam is almost exactly like yours
As my door key is not attached to the lock in any way ,I fitted central locking with the actuator acting vertically on the locking mechanism on the door latch, It would be nice to have a belt and braces ....
Hello Eric - hope all is well with you. Yes piccies please. Can be sure it'll be a good solution if you are doing it!pimpdriver wrote:Peter
I am in the process of sorting out electric windows on my Irish Clan using the cable driven sliding system off a rover 75. I have managed to modify one to fit on the passenger side and got it to slide up and down nicely unpowered, and got it to work powered on the bench. I will be fitting them properly in the next couple of weeks and i'll take some piccies for you.
Eric
Good idea! I'd need 4 bushes for each door so machining nylon should be fairly quick and easy...and keeps it original.617sqn wrote:Could you buy a stick of nylon online and have someone machine you new ones ? Just a thought. I've bought short lengths of stuff from ebay sellers a few times over the years. Beats having to buy full lengths
Andy G
Yeah! Clan Hinge kits!617sqn wrote:Fire your lathe up, Bob ! Looks like an opportunity here
Andy G
Hugh:Hugh L wrote:I believe Robin Human has made a batch of pins and bushes fairly recently.
Thanks Scott. Problem is, I can't access FB to see the post. No account.bks974c wrote:Robin was advertising them on Facebook, he had them made with brass or bronze bushes.
here you go
Scott
Email sent ..cheers.bks974c wrote:His user name here is tzarrobin, search members and email him.
Scott
Yes you could, but they would bottom-out on the bump-stops giving a sudden change in attitude ..which means you'd lose it mid-corner on full roll if you hit a bump especially.
Hello BobOldImp wrote: ↑Tue Nov 05, 2019 2:22 pm I notice that you mention the emissions version of the DHLA. I had great difficulty getting these carbs to run until I found an obscure article explaining how they work. Apparently they self tune by returning excess fuel back via the idle jet and this means you need to fit an idle jet around twice as big as normal. I fitted a 95 and the carbs were transformed. These carbs are great on a road engine but of no use if you want high power.
Bob