PES 989J... "The Pest" ....Knockhill prep

oli · Post by **oli** » Sun Jan 19, 2020 5:07 pm

It probably didn't show at all when the car was first built - the glue tarnishes, and turns brown over the intervening years due to sunlight and heat.

I'm sure that even the dubious Quality Control of the day would have said something about it if it showed as it does now.

moose · Post by **moose** » Tue Jan 21, 2020 8:15 am

Now it is looking really good Colin i had thoughts about orange wheels and calipers ????? not my cup of tea but with the car in that colour now looks amazing combo gulf racing team colours one of my favourites and will be the chosen colour of my GT40.

I do think you should be trying to fit headlining with a roll cage in though i love doing that.

johnh875 · Post by **johnh875** » Thu Jan 23, 2020 12:00 am

Looks great, I'll definitely refer back to this when I need to do a headlining.

colimp66 · Post by **colimp66** » Thu Jan 23, 2020 11:06 pm

Peter,
He did have one but not for long I believe.

Anyway, headlining all glued in tonight and pleased with the result.

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Now that is done I can think about fitting the windscreen and the side windows before pushing it into the corner so I can paint the roll cage before fitting that.
Cheers
Col.

The Nun · Post by **The Nun** » Fri Jan 24, 2020 11:12 am

I doubt a pro company could have got it looking any better than that looks nice and taut and it would have cost a small fortune too.
How's the stiff neck though?

I have the older look type material to fit when the car comes back from painting (Minging Blue) , Lesleys moonstone textured type hope that looks as good.

colimp66 · Post by **colimp66** » Fri Jan 24, 2020 1:49 pm

Thanks very much Peter and only a small sum of £75.00 from Lesley Smith for the headlining. Worth every penny.

Worth taking a bit of time and not loosing the head if it is not going correctly. I ended up taking out the insulation rightly or wrongly where the stringers were placed so they could get vertical against the roof. Also did it over two evenings one side at a time.
Going to try and put in the rear windows tonight to keep it all looking as it is, might even take the windscreen up to but think that may be a two man job.

The neck is ok .

Cheers
Col.

colimp66 · Post by **colimp66** » Fri Jan 24, 2020 10:06 pm

Thanks Scott

I have to say that the fitting of the headlining was a pleasure compared this evenings escapade to fit the rear side windows.. What a painful and frustrating thing to try and fit!!

After a couple of attempts I managed to get the lhs one fitted after some swearing and huffing and puffing.

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Attempted the rhs but gave up and came home.. Try again on Sunday.
Cheers
Col.

bazzateer · Post by **bazzateer** » Fri Jan 24, 2020 10:27 pm

Looks great Col

colimp66 · Post by **colimp66** » Sun Jan 26, 2020 7:01 pm

Thanks Baz, a little bit closer.

Today I managed to get the rhs window fitted with a little help from my son

who also helped me fit the drivers door to a more satisfying look to it. Best we could do considering it is from a race car originally and fibreglass. At least as good as Lunwoods attempt.

Engine cover went on as well and so much easier with an extra pair of hands to keep it in place rather than balancing it on your head etc..

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I've always quite liked the idea of a bib spoiler on an Imp not only for looks but for its practical virtues on handling. When I repaired the front of the car I added brackets so I could fit one later.
First choice was using an abs plastic one from a Golf.

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Then I had a wee thought that a more traditional style may be worth a look at using aluminium mimicking the Hartwell style.

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Little undecided on which way to go even with using the alloy one I'm thinking of painting it in the body colour.

Decisions..

Cheers
Col

617sqn · Post by **617sqn** » Sun Jan 26, 2020 7:10 pm

Isn't the Dolomite Sprint front spoiler (centrally narrowed) the spoiler of choice ? Well, OK, it used to be

. I have one ready to fit on Stan. It's been ready to fit for at least 10 years now......possibly longer.

Andy G

colimp66 · Post by **colimp66** » Sun Jan 26, 2020 7:55 pm

Certainly a nice looking spoiler Andy but when I looked for one they were never in stock so went for the cheap and easily available Golf style.
I did get the aluminium from a welder mate who has a stack of it so that has only cost me time.

Cheers
Col

colimp66 · Post by **colimp66** » Mon Jan 27, 2020 9:19 pm

Not huge progress today, more a reshuffle to allow the painting of the roll cage to be started.
Etch primer and then some primer on the various bits that make up the roll cage.

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A painted after I moved The Pest into the corner and wrapped it all up like a Christmas pressie.

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Colour on tomorrow hopefully.

Cheers
Col

colimp66 · Post by **colimp66** » Wed Jan 29, 2020 10:01 pm

Roll cage was painted last night and tonight I took my son upto the car so he can help me fit it in without scratching anything or tearing the headlining.

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It was tight to the headlining and was a good idea to fit that first...

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All loosely fitted at the moment as the front half will have to come out so I can fit the dash but before that I need to fit the windscreen.
Cheers
Col.

colimp66 · Post by **colimp66** » Sun Mar 15, 2020 8:00 pm

Not updated The Pest for a whilst basically because not much has been done for one reason or another getting in the way.
Today though was a bit different as I did get upto it and after showing a mate round it and him taking loads of photos to send his sister who used own a few I managed to fit the door windows.
These are polycarbonate so they are bolted into the fibreglass doors so careful measurements and some fettling was required. Also measured the drivers door up for rally style sliders but didn't have time to cut out the holes for the ventaltion.

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Before I put the windows in and decided where to put the window sliders firstly I fitted the seats so I got an idea where best to place them.
I also called Scott for his thoughts, always a good idea to ask someone who has fitted them.

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Cheets
Col

bks974c · Post by **bks974c** » Sun Mar 15, 2020 8:22 pm

Looking very complete and sweet if a little draughty

Scott

colimp66 · Post by **colimp66** » Sun Mar 15, 2020 8:30 pm

Gr88,
The MK1 splitter is another option of ch oursecand still an option, good to hear it works for you.. At 80???

cool.
Do you have any photos of it fitted?

The front screen will get fitted soon Scott, hopefully this week if Baillie is free to help me with that.

Cheers
Col

colimp66 · Post by **colimp66** » Sun Mar 15, 2020 10:01 pm

Yeh,
Unfortunately he may well have. Rather it wasn't that way but looks like it is very possible.
Col.

colimp66 · Post by **colimp66** » Wed Mar 18, 2020 11:13 pm

Thanks Chris,
Looks like you've been busy too and won't be long until you are finished.

Tonight i finished the drivers door with the slider sliding and the hole in the window for ventilation.

.

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Once I finished the drivers door I started the passenger side but didn't cut the hole in it as it was getting late and you just know when your tired it can go so wrong so came home.

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Tomorrow's job will be cutting that hole to finish it of then I may fit some mirrors.

Cheers
Col

colimp66 · Post by **colimp66** » Wed Mar 18, 2020 11:47 pm

Scott,
That's a good point and now thinking a thin piece of clear acetate like a gasket under the top and bottom rails so the slider slides over that instead of the window.
Can easily be replaced when that wears out and cheaply I would think.

Cheers
Col.

colimp66 · Post by **colimp66** » Thu Mar 19, 2020 1:06 pm

Scott,
thinking of something like this for under the bolted on slider top an bottom the full length and depth so the sliding window will slide over this 0.44mm away from the main window itself.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clear-Plasti ... 8f16764648

Cheers
Col.

colimp66 · Post by **colimp66** » Sun Mar 22, 2020 5:11 pm

Alex,
The best thing about them is that they were free

and they are very comfortable.

Today I went to the farm and with the help of my son we fitted the windscreen and finished of the lhs window in the door.

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Happy with how we got the windscreen in without too much grief using string and a bit of thumping from the outside by Baillie.
The chrome insert took a bit more effort but we got there with the use of the Mini windscreen insert tool which I doubt you can do without it.

Cheers
Col

johnh875 · Post by **johnh875** » Thu Mar 26, 2020 1:42 am

Looks good Col - not planning any large orders in the McDonald's drive thru I take it?

colimp66 · Post by **colimp66** » Thu Mar 26, 2020 7:20 am

Thanks John,
Think I would have to make an order for individually wrapped chicken nuggets passed one at a time.

Cheers
Col

colimp66 · Post by **colimp66** » Sun Mar 29, 2020 9:08 pm

With me waiting on parts so I can start on the cooling and heating system I fitted the door cards and made some door check straps. I didn't want to try and reinstate the original Imp ones as the doors being fibreglass it would no doubt require reinforcing etc. Can't be bothered with that now that they are fitted and painted.

Here is my solution..

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With me drilling the hinges to add lightness definitely helped with the solution

Cheers
Col

colimp66 · Post by **colimp66** » Wed Apr 01, 2020 10:12 pm

Got my fresh roll of self adhesive insulation yesterday so tonight I was sticking it to places that missed the last time

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Might get some done tomorrow but more likely Friday.
Cheers
Col

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Tue Apr 07, 2020 11:23 pm

Wow she really is looking good

colimp66 · Post by **colimp66** » Fri Jul 24, 2020 1:12 pm

Thanks Gary although the lack of progress since my last post has been near non existent. Work has taken over since then and I have been working 7 days a week so any progress hasn't been worth writing about.

I've fitted a few silicon hoses to the front radiator set up and a bit more insulation is all to the Pest and this week I have started the rebuild on the Blackbird motor, fitting it all together with new seals and gaskets.

Motor rebuild cylinder head.JPG

Motor rebuild block.JPG

Motor rebuild clutch.JPG

Hoping to have that together by Sunday which will allow me to get it into the subframe and figure where to fit the regulator, coils etc along with any tabs that may need welded on to secure wiring and hoses.

Cheers
Col.

colimp66 · Post by **colimp66** » Fri Sep 25, 2020 9:23 am

Last night I managed to fit the subframe over the engine and put the subframe onto axle stands and an old Imp wheel rim to get it up of the floor. Dug out the carbs, oil cooler and exhaust and fitted 2 out of the three. Battery box which can be seen sitting on the floor will be mounted to the frame behind the motor similar to how it would be for the bike. Main reason for this is easy access and the waiting won't need to be messed about with to much I hope. Coils are at the front and they will also need to be mounted to the frame for easy access and once again it will work with the existing wiring.
That's either a clever idea, lazy or possibly a money saving penny pinching one

, doesn't matter as long as it works.

Rebuilt and in subframe.JPG

Roy,
Thank you for your email and you are correct I have the earlier clutch with it being a carb model engine. I have checked the clutch and all the tabs you mentioned are well and looking ok. Thank you for the advice again, appreciated.

Cheers
Col.

colimp66 · Post by **colimp66** » Mon Sep 28, 2020 8:48 pm

Had some time today to weld in the battery box onto the engine frame to allow the original bike electrics to be fitted hopefully without to much cutting of wires.

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The gap between the frame rails to the left of the battery will be infilled with some sheet aluminium to keep some heat away from any of the electric components that may come of the silencer.
Cheers
Col.

Pog · Post by **Pog** » Tue Sep 29, 2020 1:31 pm

Coming along really nicely Col, excellent fab work as always!

Pog

colimp66 · Post by **colimp66** » Wed Sep 30, 2020 11:08 pm

Well I may not have one the lottery tonight but I've gotten close as the Pests motor has turned over on its own steam!!!!! Or at least with the aid of the battery I fitted and wired in tonight. A bit of hot wiring on the ignition

Hopefully try some fuel in it later this week if not tomorrow evening.
#Getting closer!!

Cheers
Col

Roy Sims · Post by **Roy Sims** » Thu Oct 01, 2020 8:29 am

Did you crank it to get the oil pressure up or just check the starter? Depending on what fuel pump you are using you will need a fuel pressure regulator, don't use the circular chromy ones with 5 0r 6 numbers on, they don't keep the pressure low enough. With the bike carbs I normally use the Malpassi filter king type. Best of luck, but providing the carbs are clean you will be fine.

Roy

moose · Post by **moose** » Sat Oct 03, 2020 10:09 am

Col. Read the specs on fuel pumps bit hard to do between manufactures but you can get to the bottom of it. That said this many times before people will buy a red , silver, gold top facet with a way to high a pressure for the use if you look at these pumps they will run 300 bhp engines. They then spend more money on a pressure regulator.

For example if the bike carbs require 2-4 psi buy a pump at that pressure rating, just make sure you cross reference the flow rate as some manufacturers state in gallons per hour some in american gallons per hour some in litres. Some of them just state it will flow enough at that pressure to feed a certain bhp engine or a capacity engine size.

FACET SILVERTOP

Flow rate 18 Gallons/hour
Pressure 4.0 – 4.5 PSI

FACET REDTOP

Flow rate 35 Gallons per hour
Pressure 6.5 – 7.25 PSI

FACET SOLID STATE

ROAD - A 12 volt negative earth pump with a flow rate of 25 gallons per hour and a delivery pressure of 3-4.5 Psi. Ideal for road cars with engines sizes up to 1600cc.
FAST ROAD - A 12 volt negative earth pump with a flow rate of 26 gallons per hour and a delivery pressure of 4-7 Psi. Ideal for road cars with engines sizes up to 2000cc or smaller tuned engines. It is recommended that a fuel pressure regulator is used with this pump.
COMPETITION - A 12 volt negative earth pump with a flow rate of 28 gallons per hour and a delivery pressure of 7-10 psi. Ideal for fast road or competition cars up to 180 bhp.

FACET

SILVER TOP ROAD - A 12 volt negative earth pump with a flow rate of 28 gallons per hour and a delivery pressure of 4-5.5 Psi. Ideal for fast road use on engines up to 150 BHP.
SILVER TOP COMPETITION - A 12 volt negative earth pump with a flow rate of 30 gallons per hour and a delivery pressure of 6-7 Psi. Ideal for fast road or competition use on engines up to 200 BHP.
RED TOP WORKS - A works specification 12 volt negative earth fuel pump with a flow rate of 38 gallons per hour and a delivery pressure of 6-8 Psi. Suitable for competition use on engines up to 240 BHP

As you can see there are two types of silver top! If the bike engine is 100 BHP and carbs require 2-4 PSI and the bike was not fitted with a pressure REG then use the bike one or facet solid state road pump would cover it and no REG required. No point fitting a red top works pump and REG

Hope that helps.

Roy Sims · Post by **Roy Sims** » Sat Oct 03, 2020 5:49 pm

I normally use what I have, Bike carbs do not like high fuel pressure, 1.5 psi is average hence the need for a regulator and from my personal experience the small solid state Facet pumps work ok from new but fail quickly when running against a regulator. All of this is from my personal experience, you may know better.

Roy

colimp66 · Post by **colimp66** » Mon Oct 05, 2020 11:23 am

Little bit more progress with the wiring loom and plates/brackets made up so it can be fitted neatly.
An aluminium plate made up and mounts welded to the frame work so I can mount the CDi unit to, then shorten the wiring to suit. Wanted to get this done before attempting to fire up the engine although I know it turns over.

Loom cdi on ali plate.JPG

Once I was happy with the ali plate I drilled and welded in some flange nuts to the frame work so I could mount the regulator and have bolt holes for attaching the loom to the framework to the rear of the framework which will hide some of the loom.

Loom regulator position.JPG

Loom tie down threads.JPG

Might get some of more mounts made up to attach the fuse box, Starter solenoid and several relays onto the frame later today or this week at least.

Cheers
Col.

colimp66 · Post by **colimp66** » Sun Oct 11, 2020 6:39 pm

Finally got to the motor today, charged the battery and after a bit of fettling I got the motor started and revving too.

Still lots of things to do and tidy up but this is a massive boost forward with progress on getting it on the road.
Cheers
Col.

colimp66 · Post by **colimp66** » Thu Nov 05, 2020 9:12 pm

Thank you. Chuffed that it fired up and revved without any pops and bangs or ending in a grinding halt.

Not a lot done since the initial start up although been up at the Pest and made progress on the one piece rear window and the door windows. The rear window has been cut down to fit the new rubber surround and hoping to fit that this weekend with the help from my son. The door windows will be getting a bit of paint around the edge to hide the foam sealing tape that I have fitted to the door to keep some of the rain water out.
Besides that I have been spending on various bits and bobs. One thing I bought was this so I can mount the fuse box from the Blackbird wiring loom.

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The whole undertray rear mudguard for a Honda Blackbird so I can cut out this part.

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So I could d then cut it out like this

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Then mock mount it on the frame next to the battery and cdi unit which I have trimmed the wiring down on and the other relays and battery.

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It is on temporary with a cable tie as I need to make a proper steel fixing to the frame for it which it will be riveted to or bolted, undecided at the moment.
Cheers
Col

bks974c · Post by **bks974c** » Thu Nov 05, 2020 10:00 pm

I always thought cables ties and gaffer tape were permanent repairs

Another step forward.

Scott

colimp66 · Post by **colimp66** » Fri Nov 06, 2020 9:53 pm

I got this in the post today after speaking to Kevin at Cable-tec.co.uk on Wednesday with what I may require, measuring up on Wednesday evening and ordering a on Thursday.
Top quality service for sure.

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Oh, its the cable for changing gear by the way which I will attach to the Imp gaer selector rod at some time soon.
Cheers
Col

colimp66 · Post by **colimp66** » Sun Nov 08, 2020 5:06 pm

With receiving the gear shift cable on Friday I spent the afternoon in the garage today making up a cable stop bracket I could weld to the framework so I can shift gears.

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Once that was made I positioned it (several trial times) and welded it to the frame.

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Had to make sure it shifted the gears so made a wee video.

Now to make a similar bracket for the opposite end of the cable which will attach to the standard Imp gearbox rod/shaft from the standard gear lever assembly.
Thanks to Malc for sending me out the various nylon bushes and gearstick ball so quickly.
Cheers
Col

Pog · Post by **Pog** » Sun Nov 08, 2020 9:00 pm

Have you seen the Bad Obsession Motorsport videos on YouTube, particularly project Binky? That bracket looks like it's come straight from one of those, excellent work!

Pog

colimp66 · Post by **colimp66** » Mon Nov 09, 2020 7:00 pm

Pog,
Thank you for saying my brackets are like Project Binkys.

. I'm nowhere near in the same league as those guys, top work they do for sure. I'm more of winging it and hope it works type of bracket fabricating.

Talking of which, here is the bracket for the other end of the cable and a bit more.

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From the top you can see the cable routing and where it will meet the original gaer shift.

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This is where I plan to attach it to the original gear shifter shaft with a little pivot which I still need to weld to the framework. I'm hoping there will be enough leverage space to move the gear lever on the engine. All a bit trial an error at the moment with this. Fingers crossed it works.

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Cheers
Col.

ImpManiac · Post by **ImpManiac** » Tue Nov 10, 2020 8:51 pm

Colin, I have just read the last umpteen posts. I had got behind on the forum in general. Life, etc.

Wow!

You must be so happy with the way The Pest is turning out! I cannot wait to see it for real. And to hear it!

Keep up the fantastic work, my friend.

IM

colimp66 · Post by **colimp66** » Sun Nov 15, 2020 9:17 pm

Hi Paul,
Good to hear from you and that you are still on here looking on when you can. Yes, I am very pleased on how The Pest is turning out but it isn't happening quick enough

. Life has and a certain pa demic has slowed things down this year for sure.

Today I finished more or less the gearshift mechanism at the engine end of the Pest with attaching the pivot block for where the gear cable will meet the Imp gearshift/stick assembly. Firstly by relieving the frame slightly so the gear cable won't interfere with it before mounting the pivot block.

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This is it all working after I welded a M6 bolt to a M8 bar to simulate the Imp gearshift that will extend through the rear subframe/crossmember.

Cheers
Col

colimp66 · Post by **colimp66** » Mon Nov 16, 2020 7:46 pm

Got an hour earlier and thought I'd make up the fuel pump bracket and weld it onto the frame.

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Cheers
Col.

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Wed Nov 18, 2020 1:22 pm

Looking great col the work you've put in is staggering glad it's now starting to pay you back soon to be on the road
Best regards Gary

colimp66 · Post by **colimp66** » Wed Nov 25, 2020 10:38 pm

Thanks Gary..

Doing little bits at a time at the moment when time allows. Cleaned up the diff the other night so I could etch prime, zinc primer this morning and put the shiny paint on tonight.

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Cheers
Col

bazzateer · Post by **bazzateer** » Thu Nov 26, 2020 4:35 pm

Pretty!

Pog · Post by **Pog** » Fri Nov 27, 2020 8:20 am

Tidy!

colimp66 · Post by **colimp66** » Sun Nov 29, 2020 6:56 pm

Cheers Pog. Much better than the rusty looking lump it was earlier.
Today I made up a bracket so the Kawasaki rear brake master cylinder(similar bore to the Blackbird clutch master cylinder) could be mounted to the Imp pedal box. Some angle came in handy for this and after a few measurements and grinder action I ended up with this.

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I couldn't bolt it to the pedal box properly as my imperial bolts are all with the car and not in my garage

Cheers
Col