Quickest probably just to brake more and drive through the corner at a reduced speed

Scott
Moderator: Keith 'Supaimpy' Laming
Ok I misunderstood. I thought you meant the rubber mini bobbins had been fitted to the exhaust bracket from the get go. Certainly don't want rubber damping between the exhaust and the engine as a permanent fixture.bks974c wrote:Peter
VAK's exhaust is solidly mounted to the engine, it's likely that it's one of the two heat shields that is vibrating but more difficult to alter their mountings so altering the exhaust mounts and hope that changes the frequency.
Thanks anyway.
Scott
Before I went the BMW route I was intending to build a 998 using a Sunbeam pump rather than the Imp one. Acquired a NOS and a used one and they are different with regard to projection. As the lugs for bolting to the block are the same perhaps the pulley offsets are different to account for the different projections of the impellor part of the pump assemblybks974c wrote:Thanks Peter useful insight.
Because it's not a new system but a new problem I'm thinking that something has changed, as ever it's the last thing you look at - because you stop looking after that![]()
Anyhoo, after removing the pump the bearings seem a little iffy and it might be the belt slipping at high revs due to the extra resistanceas don't think they are that bad - easy to turn by hand but a little gritty. Drain hole is at the top of the pump when fitted on the Imp engine so that's not going to help.
No problem I have another so it's just a case of swapping it, no chance![]()
The 930 assembly uses the Avenger/Sunbeam pump or at least a version of it, comparing them the new one is longer and upon fitting it deeper tooWill post some pics later, just taking a break for a cuppa. The impeller fouls the housing - try two gaskets - better but not quite, 3 gaskets and perfect, lucky I had spare ones
. At least I know the impeller is a close fit, can only be good for efficiency and flow.
Now to address the 2nd issue pulley alignment, as the pump is longer it projects rearward (as fitted) too far which means spacing it forward, after much messing about with washers and filing bits I get it where I'm happy![]()
However, that means I also have to reposition the alternator, it's almost there now. off once more fit another washer and hopefully good to go.
Scott
I have used a Davies Craig pump with controller and didn't like it for the historic rallying I was doing.Lotus-e-Clan wrote:On the motorway (sustained high speeds) you should have more air though the rad but it does sound like (from what I've read) that the extra heat in the Laminova at high revs is entering the system on return to the engine and if the coolant flow rate is under par then it will affect flow through both engine and Laminova.
My Laminova is plumbed differently to yours. It's plumbed to keep the oil temp at the Laminova the same as cylinder head coolant temp (ie the coolant and oil temp gauges read the same most of the time at around 80C). Excess heat from the oil above coolant temp (ie the delta between coolant and oil) is dumped into the start of the (traditionally plumbed) heater circuit which also has 2x 10 row Mocal rads receiving ram air at the nose (in the spoiler) to remove as much heat as possible from the Laminova/heater circuit.
The Laminova/ heater circuit has it's own booster pump which only runs at full speed when the return Heater/Laminova coolant (EVANS) rises above above 45C. This cool Evans from the nose goes direct into the bottom hose and is pumped along with the cool Evans from the rad into the water jacket. The oil temp delta between the sensor at the Laminova and sensor at the sump is at least -10C, it often sits at -12C and the biggest oil temp delta I've seen is around -18C when at higher cruising speeds going down hill (ie high/speed low load) in normal British summer ambient air (18C- 20C).
Both designs/routes (yours or mine) are valid, both with pros and cons, and I don't claim that my routing is ultimately any better at cooling than yours, I just prefer to see the oil temp kept close to coolant temp in winter and summer. But apart from the difference between our cooling circuit routing/designs -mine has a variable coolant flow rate and a manual full-flow override mode.
Full flow (80L/min) makes a massive difference in cooling if I switch it in manually ... I can quell any spike during high ambient temps by flicking the pump manually to full flow to the point that it then runs too cool when the car is on the move in full ram air. So my guess is that your suspicions about your water pump (in)efficiency is probably right?
Yes, looking at them side by side the pressed steel one does look like a poor design. It's the cast one in now.Lebowski snr wrote:Scott,
I don't know which pump you use but I would avoid using the pump with the pressed steel impeller. I have a Sunbeam Ti owned from new and the first time I changed the pump I bought an after market one with the pressed steel impeller. The running temperatures went up particularly on the motorways and during warm weather the electric fan would always run for a few minutes after switch off, this hardly ever happened with the original pump. The second replacement pump, again after market, had a cast impeller and in use lowered the temperatures to the original levels.
All other coolant items, thermostat and radiator, were the originals.
Hope this helps.
Pete.
Sounds like you have found the problem!bks974c wrote:Feed hose to engine block in the 70's, top hose in the 80's rad top in the 60's but return from the rad about the same![]()
The rad is a double pass type from a mk1 Metro, going to check the baffle in the tank is still in place.
Edit Removed rad and poured water into one stub while tilted up and it runs out the other one, don't think it should do thatPicking up borescope tomorrow to double check it and then need to find someone to repair it pronto.
Scott