Nods news , Factory fitted cover up / bodge replaced

[Bobbycham]

Nice find Dave cheap too , l'm fitting one to Petula . Boot lock that is.

Bob

[The Nun]

Ive got the swivel badge on my Chamois, but to confuse the thief theres no lock behind it

[Dave ' Linwood ' Lane]

Ive got the swivel badge on my Chamois, but to confuse the thief theres no lock behind it

. Its not an easy mod , you have to keep the badge centered where it was to look right then work the lock around that , and thats after cutting the hole in the dummy grill

[617sqn]

Well I think I can out fox this would be car thief : I haven't got a Chamois swivelling badge at all on the front of Stan. So when he goes around the front he'll be confused to not see a swivelling badge, without a lock behind it, and shake his head, nonplussed. He will then move on to easier targets, like a Ford Escort for instance, and armed with a lolly stick will gain entry via the drivers door.

Andy G

[The Nun]

Well I think I can out fox this would be car thief

Andy G

Arent your thieves there Andy are more used to removing the garage roof first though to get into the car ??

[The Nun]

. Its not an easy mod , you have to keep the badge centered where it was to look right then work the lock around that , and thats after cutting the hole in the dummy grill

On a later four headlight front panel there is a reinforcing ring welded on the back of the front panel that will located the holes for you, you just have to drill through it from the rear, Im not sure but assume so, the standard non swivel round badge is in the same place as it would be on its original Chamois grille? or is it slightly different?

The swivel badge should also be on a thick rubber plinth that spaces it outwards so the swivel doesnt foul on the grille if fitted.

[617sqn]

Arent your thieves there Andy are more used to removing the garage roof first though to get into the car ??

This is indeed true. That's how they stole my work tools. BA$TARDS. Perhaps I should place a Chamois badge up there too

Andy G

[Dave ' Linwood ' Lane]

On a later four headlight front panel there is a reinforcing ring welded on the back of the front panel that will located the holes for you, you just have to drill through it from the rear, Im not sure but assume so, the standard non swivel round badge is in the same place as it would be on its original Chamois grille? or is it slightly different?

The swivel badge should also be on a thick rubber plinth that spaces it outwards so the swivel doesnt foul on the grille if fitted.

Got a NOS single headlight front panel in the loft with that plinth , i think the badge is in a different place , slightly higher

[Dave ' Linwood ' Lane]

Way back in Nov 16 I rebuilt the carbs on this , then in March one had a sticky piston which i sorted quickly .
Anyway a mate at work has given me a Gunsons C/O meter so to test it it i tried it on the Singer as i tune this by ear so thought it would be good to see how good my ear actually is .
According to the Gunson it was slightly low at 3.5% so I richened it up slightly to just over 4.0% .
Then to check the Gunson I popped to my local friendly MOT garage i use and with a bit of bribery used their pro mega expensive calibrated C/O meter , The result was 4.4% so the free Gunson is only a fraction under reading - not bad for a home use bit of kit .
Singers running slightly better on the new richer setting so all in all a success

[The Nun]

0.4 error, So it was 3.9 then really when you set it with your ear, more accurate to the ideal than after you adjusted it with the machine ?

[Dave ' Linwood ' Lane]

0.4 error, So it was 3.9 then really when you set it with your ear, more accurate to the ideal than after you adjusted it with the machine ?

Plainly ive got this tuning by ear off fairly well then

[Lotus-e-Clan]

Here's a modern (Toyota) explanation of the ranges of AFR (or CO) expected for economy, power and torque.



I set my twin DHLA's a lot leaner than yours Dave (see below).



I think a CO of 4.0 (AFR = 13.0) is a little rich for idle.

My 1040 idled at 14.2:1 (CO = 0.75%)

Currently my 875 Sport engine with the same DHLAs idles at 13.9:1 AFR (1.5% CO) ..and I was feeling guilty about it being a tad rich compared to the 1040!

[Dave ' Linwood ' Lane]

I think a CO of 4.0 (AFR = 13.0) is a little rich for idle.

My 1040 idled at 14.2:1 (CO = 0.75%)

Currently my 875 Sport engine with the same DHLAs idles at 13.9:1 AFR (1.5% CO) ..and I was feeling guilty about it being a tad rich compared to the 1040!

I thought this too , Vuskys idle is on 3.2% which is still high compared to yours however its lower than the Singer . with the Singer on 3.5% it ran fine but needed ages before i could get it off fast idle ( choke is only needed for starting ) , i found this annoying , set on 4% fast idle can come off in a mile or so .Maybe its the SU / Weber difference however Im sure your engines are in far better state than mine :)Im also sure mine wouldnt even idle on 0.75% CO
Vuskys results

[Lotus-e-Clan]

TBH it's the ignition side that allows mine to run smooth with a lot less fuel.

Mapped ignition with the twin coil pack provides a big, fat, very consistently-timed, spark - plus iridium plugs help too.

I reckon you should be able to get it to idle OK @ 2.5% CO (AFR 13.5) ( and save a bit of fuel).

[Dave ' Linwood ' Lane]

TBH it's the ignition side that allows mine to run smooth with a lot less fuel.

Mapped ignition with the twin coil pack provides a big, fat, very consistently-timed, spark - plus iridium plugs help too.

I reckon you should be able to get it to idle OK @ 2.5% CO (AFR 13.5) ( and save a bit of fuel).

Possibly, however on twin SUs altering the idle mixture also alters the mixture right across the rev range so by going to 2.5% id be weakening it everywhere which would then entail more needle research etc etc as the mixture is spot on above idle . Vusky did 50.9 MPG on the way to national a few years back , that aint bad

[617sqn]

No, that's very good . My mildly tuned 3550 Rover SD1V8 (plus my lead foot) used to give 28 on a run, but more usually about 12 mpg !

Great sound, though

Andy G

[Lotus-e-Clan]

TBH it's the ignition side that allows mine to run smooth with a lot less fuel.

Mapped ignition with the twin coil pack provides a big, fat, very consistently-timed, spark - plus iridium plugs help too.

I reckon you should be able to get it to idle OK @ 2.5% CO (AFR 13.5) ( and save a bit of fuel).

Possibly, however on twin SUs altering the idle mixture also alters the mixture right across the rev range so by going to 2.5% id be weakening it everywhere

Good point. You were probably on the money when you said it was more achievable with DHLAs.

As a general point of interest - don't you find it amusing that modern lean-burn engines produce more health-damaging NOx than most classic rich-burn engines (Imp included) which stuggle to idle above 13.5:1 (less than 2.5% CO) . Look at the first Toyota Chart and how NOx peaks for lean burn engines running AFRs around 16:1 (CO less than 0.5%). The EU should ban lean-burn engines from city centres and allow only much-healthier classics!

[Dave ' Linwood ' Lane]

Good point. You were probably on the money when you said it was more achievable with DHLAs.

As a general point of interest - don't you find it amusing that modern lean-burn engines produce more health-damaging NOx than most classic rich-burn engines (Imp included) which stuggle to idle above 13.5:1 (less than 2.5% CO) . Look at the first Toyota Chart and how NOx peaks for lean burn engines running AFRs around 16:1 (CO less than 0.5%). The EU should ban lean-burn engines from city centres and allow only much-healthier classics!

So for best economy NOx rockets up .
Sadly NOx isnt on the garage gas analiser , well it is but its not tested

[Dave ' Linwood ' Lane]

No, that's very good . My mildly tuned 3550 Rover SD1V8 (plus my lead foot) used to give 28 on a run, but more usually about 12 mpg !

Great sound, though

Andy G

Ouch , my old radically tuned 5 pot Quattro would go to single figure MPG if really ragged , about the same as your SDI for normal driving and 15MPG around town . great sound as well but totally unaffordable

[617sqn]

totally unaffordable

Zackly. That's why it had to go. Sad day, but.... I bought Rover 600ti instead. Fab car, very underrated. It would have been an "MG" back in the day. That had been tuned by the previous owner and was supplied with rolling road readouts at 220 bhp. Pretty quick for a plain looking sleeper. Rear arches went though and weren't available.

Andy G

[Dave ' Linwood ' Lane]

They say you never stop learning
Had a play with the CO meter again today , as its over reading by 0.4 ive reset the mixture so its bang on 4 using my meter ( reading 3.6 ) not the garages thereby having a reference for future use .

Two things i noticed .

Having deliberately tested the CO with the engine cold ( but off choke ) I noted they run much weaker until fully warmed up , hence why it wont start without said choke .

The Singers engine lid vibrates slightly when its up and the mixtures not bang on - an easy way for me to tell if its moved at all.

Every days a learning day

[johnh875]

The Singers engine lid vibrates slightly when its up and the mixtures not bang on - an easy way for me to tell if its moved at all.

What an ingenious tuning mechanism Rootes provided there...

[Dave ' Linwood ' Lane]

Some of you might remember way back in April I was experimenting with another alternator stator - well finally its built and working as i want it - Took three attempts in the end , first one the wire wouldnt even fit , second the output wasnt what I was after ( over 50A hot ) and this one i did in April has just been waiting its turn

Its a right mix of bits , Brise alternator with a Denso rotor , my over the top upgraded winding and flexi anti vibration stator leads , top end bearings , top end insulation etc etc .

For the technical here the stator passed the earth test at greater than 100,000 GOHM at 2000V. Guess its not earthed then

Cut in was at 960RPM , output was 55A hot , just over 60A cold .

Hopefully il get it on the Singer the weekend for some proper trials

[Lotus-e-Clan]

Very professional as ever!

[617sqn]

Not knowing any better, Dave, but I guess you can't get summat for nowt, so will it take mega bhp to run it ?

Andy G

[Dave ' Linwood ' Lane]

Not knowing any better, Dave, but I guess you can't get summat for nowt, so will it take mega bhp to run it ?

Andy G

No , obviously electricery isnt free but its not much , il work it out later in HP

[Dave ' Linwood ' Lane]

The average alternator is 55% efficient and generates 14.4V max so going on this as a basis the engine uses 0.584 HP to generate 55A - so just over 1/2 a horse , obviously my car doesnt get near this so lets say 35A max with everything on , in this case its just 0.372HP , so not as power sapping as you think , of course the average engines only 40% efficient then theres the belt friction , bearing friction etc etc , then the actual efficiency is only about 20%
The 45% loss in an alternator is due to friction , core loss , stray load loss , 12R loss ( posh way of saying heat loss or resistance ) brushes etc etc. the more an alternator runs near its limit the hotter it gets so the 12R loss increases , this is why its best to get an alternator that is capable of producing more power than it will be required to generate , this is why i was after 55A and not the 35A I actually need

[617sqn]

I see. Very informative.... how does the alternator output relate to battery size ? For example, if its better to have extra capacity in the alternators generating capability, does the same go for the size of your electron storage facility ?

Andy G

[Dave ' Linwood ' Lane]

I see. Very informative.... how does the alternator output relate to battery size ? For example, if its better to have extra capacity in the alternators generating capability, does the same go for the size of your electron storage facility ?

Andy G

TBH Ive no idea , im guessing the batteries AH rating plays a part and of course its RC ( Reserve capacity ), its state of charge and its age .Having a battery with a large RC would mean you could keep going longer with no charging . The alternator only pumps out what the battery needs to stay charged and supply the cars needs , no more and no less .

[johnh875]

I dare say it is fair to say that the alternator has much better efficiency than the old generator, and would take less power to drive even with the higher output?

Also the cut-in rpm would be for the alternator, so below idle speed for the engine when installed?

[Dave ' Linwood ' Lane]

New alternator works a treat , 14.4V at 800RPM tickover. . Quite chuffed my winding is generating electricery to power my home made wiring loom
Total weight is 2.35KG - Light for an alternator

Looks good I recon

[Dave ' Linwood ' Lane]

I dare say it is fair to say that the alternator has much better efficiency than the old generator, and would take less power to drive even with the higher output?

Also the cut-in rpm would be for the alternator, so below idle speed for the engine when installed?

Probably so , cut in on this is really low - see post above

[Dave ' Linwood ' Lane]

Oil and filter changed in both cars today , I always do them the same day as it saves trying to remember whats due and when

Once filled , spun over on the starter for a bit then fired up , as soon as the gauge picks up straight off again , i recon the filter and oil cooler swallow a pint at least

Then go for a test run .

Oil in both cars was black but had zero iffy looking metal bits in it - always a great sign

[Lotus-e-Clan]

Great to see a picture of you!

So young....still

[moose]

so young yet still not grasped how to take a selfie

[African Imp]

Dave, how many meters of extra wire went into the third stator you made up?

More than would normally be used or is it another trick?

[Dave ' Linwood ' Lane]

Dave, how many meters of extra wire went into the third stator you made up?

More than would normally be used or is it another trick?

no extra wire , its all trickery . For example lets say 10 turns of 1mm wire so 10 wires per slot gives 40A , so if you put in 5 turns of 1mm wire but run two in parallel its still 10 wires per slot but the output as gone up to 60A , 3turns and 3 in parallel and it goes up again , the combinations are endless however the more you get out the higher the cut in speed so it wont start charging until much higher up the rev range .
I do a 200A one for a customer thats 2 turns , 8 wires in parallel of 0.95 , yes its 200A but cut in is 4000RPM - Fine for his nascar but useless on a road car

[African Imp]

Dave, Thanks, I think I have the grasp of what your talking about?

Can you tell me why the Aerogen 4 wind generator stator that I have is 24 volt and not the 12 volt that I required at the time?

Windings or wire numbers? etc etc.

[Dave ' Linwood ' Lane]

Dave, Thanks, I think I have the grasp of what your talking about?

Can you tell me why the Aerogen 4 wind generator stator that I have is 24 volt and not the 12 volt that I required at the time?

Windings or wire numbers? etc etc.

stator is the output , the rotor controls the voltage so winding that would do nothing to the volts , the rotor would need changing to get the 12V you want.
So stator = output
Rotor or armature = voltage
Rectifier converts the AC generated in to DC using diodes
Regulator controls the volts produced by the rotor / armature

[617sqn]

Use 2 x 12v batteries in series to cover the 24v, and take tappings at 12v for whatever use you have ?

Andy G