Grahame, I used an anti-drumming self adhesive mat on Stan. It came with a black film on the top surface with a "quilt" type embossing. It's neat, self supporting and wipe clean. Came from my local motor factors if I recall correctly.
Andy G.
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Noddy wrote:It definitely takes away any droning and its probably a bit quieter…
Thanks Dave. Tbh, I like the 'original' look so am hoping to find a grid like yours from a Chamois (don't suppose you still have your old one? Could pick up at National if you want to part with it). I have some fireproof black fabric I can sew up a 'bag' from and some 1/2" thick underfloor felt to insert in it which should do the trick.
Sorry but My grill was beyond all hope which is why i made a new one , steel strips to do this are readily available but so is 3mm round copper wire at work ( not cheap though ) which is why i used this , its "enameled " , thats to say coated ( its not enamel but thats what its called ) so it never tarnishes , i sprayed it in black electrical varnish anyway so it looks like steel , its a bit more flexible than steel hence the extra bracing on mine .
No more rot .
Grahame, I used an anti-drumming self adhesive mat on Stan. It came with a black film on the top surface with a "quilt" type embossing. It's neat, self supporting and wipe clean. Came from my local motor factors if I recall correctly.
I agree with having a standard look in black if your car happens to be standard, but with most cars anything but, then drifting away from that is neither right or wrong in my eyes, but whatever floats your boat, or IMP, I guess.
the black is good that little legs has done and does work really well , its the silver that doesnt , again personal taste and all that , i bet theres some stuff ive done on mine that doesnt work for others
The Nun wrote:I agree with having a standard look in black if your car happens to be standard, but with most cars anything but, then drifting away from that is neither right or wrong in my eyes, but whatever floats your boat, or IMP, I guess.
An amphibious Imp eh? Now there's a plan!
If I told you I was a pathological liar, would you believe me?
Barry Blackmore - Chiltern ACO, apparently.......................
Neat and clean works for me. If it loses out to the clipped-in duvet, soundproofing wise, so be it.
The comment from bazzateer about the radiator mesh had occurred to me also, but it seemed worth the risk as it was available.
My bike can is from a Suzuki GS750 . The inlet is attached by a four bolt flange. If you have access to a lathe its easy to make up adaptors for any pipe size.
Thought this might be of interest. Its the original book for the car. Condition isn't the best now. The dealer stamp can't be made out when reproduced on here, but it is a Hartwell stamp. The hand written notes are on the inside front cover. There's a note about Wills rings and 1 5/16" inlet valves. I would have thought that the carbs would have required changes, but apparently not.
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For various reasons progress has been really slow, but the engine bay wiring is done, now. Couldn't get the lights working. The light switch appeared to be ok , but turned out to be u.s. A new one was obtained and fitted, but still no lights. Then I realised that the feed from the ignition was missing. problem solved. I'm going to fit a fusebox and relays for the bigger loads such as headlamps, so I've been collecting correct colour coded wire for the job.
This gear knob appears to be a tatty aftermarket part that someone has fitted, but I seen a picture somewhere recently which would seem to suggest that its a tatty aftermarket part that Hartwell fitted.
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I've been thinking about manifold heating. Its definitely needed, but I don't think all the time. So I've got one hose coming off the head, through the manifold and then on through the heater. I reckon if you need the heater you need manifold heating.
The bypass line has been fitted with a generic inline heater valve, rather than going with a restrictor inside the hose. In the shut position the valve allows a trickle of water through.
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Progress has been slow. There is now a fuse box fitted, supplying main beam, dipped beam, horn and fan through relays. Tried turning over the engine on the key, only to hear a click from the starter motor solenoid. This with a fully charged battery. With the white/red wire disconnected and the solenoid fed directly from the battery, it turned over like a goodun with oil pressure registering immediately. When I checked the white/red, there is full voltage present, but it is obviously not capable of supplying the load of the solenoid. Sometimes when the ignition switch is operated, there is no ignition light showing. I suspect the switch is on the way out .Just got to find a new one now. No spark present either, but that is for another day.
You could try a temporary feed from battery positive to starter solenoid (small terminal normally fed from the ignition switch) to test the solenoid. That would eliminate the solenoid from the possible sources of your fault.
IM
Paul Harrison
imp: a small demon : FIEND : a mischievous child : URCHIN
maniac: Raging with disordered intellect: affected with mania: MAD
Way back, I used to have a 28/36 on my car using a Solex bellcrank. Even though the little swivel pin that clamps onto the throttle cable was well lubricated, the cable would still start fraying at the swivel pin. I wanted to avoid that if possible so I made this up using a Volvo 740 throttle wheel.
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will jack wrote:I'm not certain, but i think its industrial fire blanket for welding operations. Clark Dawson fitted it for me when he was doing the bodywork.
Looking good willy ,you must be nearly there . the blanket it what they use for lagging pipes in the power stations, managed to get a load of it from a friend who works at the station , easy to keep clean as well , just clean it with pre clean or petrol . .
Thanks Clark. Still got bits to do. I need to make up brackets for inertia reel seat belts. A couple of the captive nuts for the seat mountings have broken free, so I am making up 3mm plates with bobbins drilled and tapped for 8mm bolts. I've already got mountings made up for Rover 100 seats. Not as trendy as Fiestas and MX5's etc, but they are comfortable.
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Yeah, it is a bit pricey... however, you can buy 'door kits' and 'trunk kits' (American) and they have large boots, so basically, you van buy it a bit at a time... unless you are loaded like most impers and can fork out for it all in one go (That was 'attempted humour, BTW, in case anyone missed it)
I only know of it from watching 'overhaulin' on fox.... looks like good stuff...
There are cars better than an imp, but when rated in 'smiles to the gallon' not many beat an imp
Yeah, there is a heap of them now.... once the chinese copy something, the cost comes down quick.... The thickness of them is different too, so you have to watch out for that.... really read closely what you are getting. I see the stuff you put up is 2mm thick... from memory, dynamat extreme is 6mm and some is 10mm.... the underbonnet is 3/4" thick.
Anything works tho.... I had some good floor mats, but had some new ones.... I put in the new ones on the floor of my imp and the other good ones are under the back seat..... even that makes a big difference
There are cars better than an imp, but when rated in 'smiles to the gallon' not many beat an imp
Progress being made again. Sidelamps are still fed off the light switch, but the main and dipped headlights are now fed off separate relays. The bumpers were rechromed and have been fitted with MG bumper bolts. The chrome strips were painted red because the Sunbeam badge on the rear is red. A repro Sunbeam badge has been fitted. Its got four holes on the crown. I think I read somewhere that it should only have three. . The rack is off at the moment to get new rubber boots fitted, and filled with Land Rover hub grease. Fiesta trackrod ends are being fitted.
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I have been researching dynamat and looking for alternatives. One thing I read, is that completely covering every square inch of the car promotes mildew and doesn't help the sound deadening effect any more than having patches in the middle of panels roof or whatever? It is the centre of panels that causes the noise amplification, so I reckon, where you see rootes has put the deadening, like in behind the elbow bins next to the back seat.... put it there a bit bigger than they used... where the black gunk is in the footwells etc.... but prolly a good idea to use the 10mm stuff behind the back seat (the whole back seat area and back shelf) and yes, painted black should look better.
The dynamat ceiling lining is like 10mm thick, they have 6mm and 2mm for other areas... I will prolly get the black chinese stuff because I am a cheap rrr's If it doesn't work, I will double up... there is a bulk pack with heapsof metres of the chinese one
There are cars better than an imp, but when rated in 'smiles to the gallon' not many beat an imp
Stripped the steering rack for inspection and fitting new rubber boots. It all looked perfect. Filled it with Land Rover hub grease. Fitted adjustable track rods on both sides, and Fiesta track rod ends.
I've looked on the dvla site for the car a couple of times, and never found it listed. I had assumed it was because the car has been off the road for so long(last taxed 1983). I only noticed that it was listed as a Hillman when I scanned the old tax discs. I'm not sure how much grief that's going to cause, to get sorted out.
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The rack is refitted now, along with the front brakes and brake pipes. A new servo is fitted.
I think the tank was modified by Hartwell so that the wider rims would still fit in the spare wheel well.
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