68 stiletto Restoration

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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by tiker »

Had to cut out quite a bit on this side as it had gone right through so decided to brace it just in case repaired the underside first so I would have a good section to spot weld to. It's easy on the spit
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by The Nun »

Vinyl roof covering causes most of that rusting there on Stiletto's, when you fit the new roof vinyl give it a good going over with black boot polish every now and then to keep it waterproof and stops the wet soaking underneath it, keeps it looking like new too.
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by tiker »

Made up curved plate to spot weld into channel
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by tiker »

Then just cut to suit and job done I'll lead load later
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by tiker »

Driver's side not as bad as the two holes were only that big due to me poking about
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by John Simister »

I'm really looking forward to seeing the finished car. The fantastic work so far expands the realm of the possible. I'm just hoping my Stiletto is solid under its vinyl roof. There doesn't seem to be any lumpiness in the danger zones, nor crunchiness when I press them, so that part of its 1980s rebuild seems to be holding together. I hope it stays that way.
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by tiker »

Got time to weld door today
Filled all the flanges with seam sealer and slid it into place them tacked it to hold
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by tiker »

Then slowly welded it bit at a time to keep cool didn't get any distortion
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by The Nun »

You can get a paste now you spread on either side of the weld on large panel to absorb the heat, called Cold Front, Ive seen them using it in the body shop, saves waiting for it to cool down all the time, I suppose it speeds everything up and time is money with them.

Looks like youre not too far off the paint stage them now? Are you going with Limelight? 8)
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by tiker »

Hi Peter sorry to disappoint you but the more I looked at the limelight the more I realised I couldn't live with it.
But it's still going to be a nice light metallic green ,a little test here
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by tiker »

Just some small tabs to to weld on to hold wireing loom in place some vent holes in the bonnet as bonnet came from moose's rally car to weld up and then I can put it away, I don't leave it at the garage it's been in the back of my car for over 3years
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by tiker »

A new purchase makes me now realise the parts I will need to build Patch it's much cheaper to buy a complete car It's not the big stuff it's all the little screws,clips and brakets that get lost or go missing when you get a part rebuild,where do you start.
I suppose just like the welding 1bit at a time I only realised yesterday I have the seats but no brakets to bolt them to the floor will just try and make a list and then post it as with the oil cooler no brakets
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by The Nun »

You certainly do and its those which are only a few pence each that build up into hundreds of pounds and can take hours tracking the right ones down, I dont mind I enjoy chasing around for them but its at the cost of time, it slows you down somewhat.
Fortunately my car had most of the necessary bits on it, but I could see buying just a shell with nothing much else then having to fit it all out when you dont really know what or how it should be is a real challenge, you will certainly know when youve finished it but you will know it inside out so to speak.
Cooler brackets are the hard of the 2 to find now, but they are quite simple affairs and someone such as yourself would easily be able to fabricate a pair if it came to it.
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by tiker »

I bet when some people started striping cars for part they took all the big stuff and through the smaller bits away not realising that is the bits everybody wants later down the line?
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by The Nun »

Always bag and tag anything removed from a car no matter how bad it might be, never assume you can just buy the parts new so dont have to bother, often why some resto's are never completed, folk give up.
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by tiker »

I agree I have all the trim inside, it's all no good but its there dash needs recovering but they can work wonders with vinyl today it's the drivers quarter lite rubber seal that's got me there just so rare
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by long_gone_John »

I bought/drove my IMPs when the breakers had a couple, languishing in the 'fragg' aisle....

Never troubled me to pick up a part from any other make/marque that was 'suitable for duty' & and whangg it on :wink:

Never troubled me to think I would get a 'Oh... no, no, no!' reprimand from the 'Linwood Preservation Society'... telling me it wasn't kosher :roll:

.... I drove mine to work everyday .... :P

Oh.. 2 be young again :P


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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by walshste »

I got cooler brackets from Bob in club spares just last year. Also, I think Roy McBride , Africa Imp, was making them at one stage.
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by tiker »

Hi John thanks if you could send me the sizes 1 looks straight forward to make but one looks strange like it bolts to the engine ?
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by The Nun »

tiker wrote:Hi John thanks if you could send me the sizes 1 looks straight forward to make but one looks strange like it bolts to the engine ?
One fits under the rear engine mount on the body crossmember and one fits onto the of offside rear chassis rail/rear body crossmember top stud.
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by The Nun »

You could just fit it onto a couple of angle brackets screwed to the rear panel I suppose?
If youre not particularly bothered about it looking right that is just doing the job.
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by 617sqn »

I made my r/h side one (414 in the parts drawing) in stainless, as its just a cut and bend job. I borrowed a bracket from a mate and made a card template of it, drew it out on my stainless sheet and cut and folded it as needed. Simples 8)

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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by tiker »

Did some samples this week I've never sprayed metallic or 2k before so had to make sure I could do it with the equipment I had.There are some imperfections but left them in the primer just to see what I could get away with? It seems that you can get away with very little but pleased with the results and happy with the colour this time
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by The Nun »

Not Limelight but leaning towards that direction I suppose 8)
Bit lighter than Grasshopper I reckon too?
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by impmann »

Thats a slightly more green version of a Stiletto I once had - its since been restored and painted yellow but you can just make it out at the back of this pic, although for some reason (probably when the pic was scanned) its a bit more 'gold' looking than it was in real life.

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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by tiker »

Hi first day down this week weather just put me off when I test sprayed the door pocket I also put colour on one inner wing not sure to do it are just go with black as iam going to use it a lot but for now starting to rub down the inside ready for the epoxy primer,the zinc primer that's on has done it's job and is quite thick so going to flat it off from this morning it's going to take a few days to get it ready
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by tiker »

Finished flating back all the zinc primer on the inside ready for the epoxy to seal it
The zinc when sanded turned silver due to the high content I thought I had done a good job but when scotch brite pading after it was surprising how much I missed but it's all well keyed now
Panel wiping takes a surprisingly long time too, if it's good weather I'll spray it tomorrow
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by tiker »

Got inside epoxy primed today
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by Lars Hagermark »

Wow!
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by tiker »

Hi the epoxy gets better more I use it but not any epoxy I reviewed many forums before buying it being filling some small area's today.The epoxy sands well and keyed the rest with green scotch brite you can tell it's tough stuff but you can work with it ,some of the other s you can't sand as easy they say i would thoroughly recommend it
Also been seam sealing , what a horrible messy job that is
Primer next
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by tiker »

Also bought another spray gun for primer lvlp 1.8 I have a 1.4 hvlp for metallic and a lvlp 1.3 for lacquer
I was using the hvlp for primer but it's not large enough for the epoxy and the high build primer
I managed but it's not good enough for the outside
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by The Nun »

Just think what youre saving, if you had had all that done professionally that youve done/doing, it would be a 30 grand car when youve finished :o
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by tiker »

Update on the Epoxy
Filled on top of it as your supposed to sanded it back ,it flats back to a feather edge no lifting in fact until I panel wiped it I couldn't tell where the edge was
Very impressed
I also dropped a bit and didn't notice thought it would just chip off with a chisel, think again it wasn't having it at all had to shave it off bit at a time then sand it away
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by tiker »

Just went over the filler today with epoxy to seal it, used the new 1.8 primer gun very nice laid much flatter only a cheap gun too .
Size does matter!!
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by ImpManiac »

Gary, what does "1.8" allude to? Is it something like nozzle diameter or air bleed diameter? I have a couple of cheap spray guns but want, eventually, to gear up to protect my cars like you are doing yours. :)

I shall do some research too.

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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by tiker »

1.8 is the diameter of the hole and needle,
Larger it is the thicker material will flow through better ,when using the 1.4 it was finding it hard to push it through, forcing it rather than it flowing through at a reduced pressure this allows it to atomise the paint into smaller droplets and it goes on the surface more smoothly or flatter no indentation known as orange peel
Metallic is finer so needs a smaller hole and needle hence 1.4 it doesn't seem much difference but it does make a difference
Lvlp is low volume low pressure you only need a small compressor they work well with very little over spray but you can't spray metallic with them you need a hvlp high volume low pressure you can also use this type for everything but don't like to work the compressor hard all the time that's why I use the other type of gun too it personally choice I like to have 1 gun for primer 1for basecoat and 1 for lacquer/ no paint contamination.
Iam no expert but hope it clears it a bit :-)
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by tiker »

Hi Dan the skin is bent round the edges on all 3 sides , the outer edges I first bent at 90 degree ,the bottom edge almost tapped full down just enough to be able to slide it up into place then filled it with seam sealer including the other 2 edges , tack welded the outside then hammer and dollyed the edge down , cleaned of the squeezed out sealer
There is no welding at the edges ,it's only seam welded at the top
Please ask anything iam pleased to help as others have helped me
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by impanator93 »

Hi Gary,

Thats really helpful thank you. Couple of questions though if you don't mind:

1) What length of overlap did you make the door edges have?

2) I may have to make a larger skin than you, starting under the door handle, so is there no welding at all the the edge of the door?

3) Do you think it would be possible to carry out similar skin work to what you have done, but off of the car? My car is a 2 hr drive away from me right now so my thoughts were to go down to the car and double check how the doors fit, then bring them up the road and form the skin against the inners of the doors in the same way you have. I wouldn't have thought that would alter the alignment of the door or fitment since id only be skinning from just above halfway down the door?

Thanks again
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by tiker »

I would make some templates of the door size and the curve and mark them up against a ref on the door as once you bring it back you can never remember how it was
I would start with bottom fold and edge on hinge side , folded edge is about 8mm but gets smaller near hinge
If you have a stretcher that's great for curve but I don't so had to cut some slots to allow me to bend it ,it's only these slots that I've welded up at the back.
I joggled the edge on the face of the door I thought it made it more rigid but you'll have to judge that yourself higher up
Once hinge side is somewhere near you can move to lock side and do same ,I used hammer and dolly to do this side .
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by tiker »

I mistake I made was not to put any curvature in it before folding the bottom edge
It's very hard to bend later , you can bend the edges fine but it doesn't hold the contour all the way across if I did it again I would leave it longer get it to the right shape then cut it of later
One other thing is make sure the inner frame is the correct shape before you start the outer, you will just waste your time otherwise
Hope it helps drop me a pm if you get stuck
Good luck
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by cov_climax »

Hi Dan,
I put lower skins on mine, at the time there was a great sheet metal man in our village with a well equipped workshop. I had him roll me some sheet to match the curve, but like Gary says- better do this with extra length of the panel as rolls will not curve the first and last 6" or so.

Get them to cut and fold the edges at 90 degrees afterwards and this will loose the curve at the edge somewhat but the middle will 'remember', don't worry because when you fold the edges round with a hammer and dolly the shape will come back. If you don't roll the curve you may end up with the skin flattening out in the middle of the door.
I've seen pictures of someone making a imp skin on a bench, with nothing more than a sheet of thick board (mdf or worktop), a scaffold tube and clamps to put the curve in. Then using angle iron to fold the edges around.

Like Gary says best get the frame to fit on the car first without the skin, it's loads easier to adjust, and usually very floppy without the skin in place, ( especially if you've cut a lot of the inner skin out like I had). If you can fit the skin next to the car all the better as trial fitting as you go helps get a better fit.

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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by impanator93 »

Thanks very much for your replies guys!

I'll be picking up the doors next week hopefully and ill put some photo's up on my JRS thread as i progress. I'll pick up some 0.9mm sheet this weekend so i have it all ready to go.

Cheers
Dan
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by tiker »

Hi all ,
Everything I've bought so far has been a I need this purchase but this week that changed saw an item on eBay and the imp bug I think has started
This was my first I want purchase!!

Is there any hope, can I be cured?
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by tiker »

Hi managed to get some Hi build primer on today gone from shiny grey to Matt grey , unfortunately time is a problem working shifts but can't wait to see the colour on a large area
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by chris d »

nice work gary
wait until you see it in natural light.totaly different
are you going to do it in the light green you showed us earlier.
will need sunglasses and a hazard warning for the general public on a bright sunny day.
have you adjusted the holes for the locking handles yet,you need to remove a bit of metal to make them fit,
do it before you prime it.
keep going,not long until you are driving it.
cheers chris d
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by tiker »

Thanks for the tip about the locking handles Chris didn't know that.It was a good day for spraying todaythe top photo is the true colour
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by chris d »

i guess your doing it green then
finish looks good
is that straight out the gun
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by tiker »

Yes straight from gun its max Mayer 200 high solids lacquer so quite thick but in this lower temp flows really well with std thinner and hardner the colour is a lot lighter in the sun it's ford squeeze green
A squeeze green. Stiletto :-)
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by tiker »

Engine compartment now Epoxy primed
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Gary
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617sqn
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Re: 68 stiletto Restoration (SRC 527F )

Post by 617sqn »

I think that slice of meatloaf has gone off :shock: Don't be tempted to eat it between flattening off :?

Andy G
Member No. 7500, and Stan's best mate.
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