ManiacImp - 1966 Singer Chamois

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Post by Lotus-e-Clan »

^^^Doh! :oops:

TBH I haven't seen one with a jiggle pin in for donkey's....but I always drill my stats with a (jiggle-pin-less) bypass hole for the reason I gave, plus air/steam bleeding of course. :wink:

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Post by benwick3 »

Here's a suggested quick solution to your problem.

Disconnect your front tank/swirl pot. Either replace with straight pipe or plumb directly into and out of the radiator.

Remove the bypass circuit completely. You will need to block the head connection, preferably with a blanking plug. Block off other end at pump. There is a Ford blanking hose that does this but an alternative is to use a short piece of hose with a bolt in the end.

Relocate tank/swirl pot in engine bay ensuring it is higher than the top of the engine.

Connect return feed from the radiator into tank and then from tank to pump.

Now the important bit. Remove the thermostat. Cut circular piece of aluminium to fit in place of thermostat. Drill 4 No 1/4inch diameter holes equally spaced in the aluminium disc. Put disc in thermostat housing in place of thermostat. (An alternative to the aluminium disc is to cut the centre out of an old thermostat)

Fill the system and run. If you have a bleed valve on the rad you can use this to assist bleeding the system. The system is however virtually self bleeding - just run with the cap off until you can see no more air bubbles in the tank/swirl pot.

To rig this up should cost you nothing and will enable you to check everything is okay. It's a well proven system that follows the route as recommended in the early days of front rads i.e. water pump - engine - top of radiator - bottom of radiator - header tank - water pump.

Pete Richards

p.s. The above assumes that you have no heater circuit. One can be provided by taking a connection off the pipe to the rad to the heater and tem connecting from the heater to the return pipe from the rad.
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Post by ImpManiac »

These last couple of dozen posts would have made a great thread under Cooling System Help and Discussion! :roll:

Thank you to all who have commented. There are some really useful pieces of advice there. I shall re-jig the system tomorrow - hopefully - and test it. I have a brand new thermostat, so can happily hack up the old one, if necessary. I also have plenty of aluminium alloy sheet, so could cut out a plate and drill it.

Relocating the swirl pot might be the biggest problem because ideally it should be bracketed onto the body somewhere and it has no mounting lugs or anything. However, I'll figure something out. I do not possess any welding ability to speak of and have no steel sheet kicking about but I have a couple of ideas already. And they won't cost me anything! :wink:

This forum ROCKS thanks to all of you!! :D :D

IM 8)
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Post by Basildon310 »

As the swirl pot is round couldn't you just bend up a suitable bracket from some strapping bolt this to the rear bulkhead in the engine bay and attach the swirl pot to the bracket with a couple of jubilee clips? No welding needed! :wink: :D
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Post by ImpManiac »

Now the Chamois has had a few miles and the cooling system appears to be working reliably, I have started to "stretch" (thrash :lol: ) the engine a little. I must say, it really loves to rev! The BVH and R21 camshaft, Webers, etc. mean it is a bit gutless below about 2500rpm but once past 3250 rpm or so, it really sounds strong and pulls like a train! I've had it up to about 8500rpm so far and it wants to keep going, even if I don't!

I think there's quite a lot more pace to come too, as the carburettors really need balancing and setting up. The engine idles quite lumpily and rocks, which it shouldn't. So I plan to devote some time learning how to set up Webers. Also, the ignition timing might need tweaking too. Plus it is due an oil change and some new plugs...

But I am pleased with the engine! :D

There are some minor problems with the rest of the car. The windscreen leaks in the bottom corners and I think might need a new seal. :roll: The side rear windows also need new seals. I might wait until I can get some decent, scratch resistant, lexan windows for the car.

Bizarrely, the main beam warning lamp (blue) on the dashboard comes on with the sidelights and headlamps and switches off with the main beam. Then, the blue lamp flashes at an increasing rate dependent upon speed. I think it is related to the speedometer cable somehow, judging by the speed of oscillation. Maybe the speedo cable is earthing somewhere...? :? I don't know. I need to break out the multimeter and investigate that one.

The rear window seals seem to be holding up, though! :)

Lastly, some photos...

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:D :D

IM 8)
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Post by ImpManiac »

I haven't driven the ManiacImp for waaaaaay too long so the plan is to take it along to the Ace Cafe Classic Cars magazine meeting tonight. Expect pictures here soon! :D (I might take some of other cars too... :shock: )

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Post by ImpManiac »

Well, believe it or not, I did take loads of photos at the Ace Cafe Classic Cars night but I completely forgot to take any of my own car! :shock: :( Luckily, Baz took one, though, so I can prove that I was there.

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See! :lol: The couple of dozen photos I took came out really badly because it was night time. My little digital camera only has a small flash unit on it for close up shots of people, so it couldn't cope. :?

However, the Chamois drove magnificently! :D :D Apart from when it stalled right outside the Ace and then would not restart... :oops: But it got a very warm reception from the guys there and there were lots of helpers to push it into place in the car park. :) I don't know why it died but it restarted later on without any difficulty, so maybe it was to do with heat soak, or something. :? It needs a tune-up anyway.

I took the car to work the next day to show some of my friends there. One of my friends and I went out at lunch time for a blast around the nice, shady, twisty lanes around work and the Chamois was in its element! Blasting out of one roundabout, I saw 9000rpm in second, until I looked at the speedo and realised that I was travelling a bit fast! :oops: Anyway, it really is running well, apart from a very slight misfire at about 5000rpm (only did it once). And it sounds very, very strong too. :wink:

The handling in the twisties is :shock: staggering! It turns in really sharply, with minimal body roll and holds its line extremely well. Grip was never an issue, even in tight (well-sighted) bends at decent speeds. Even better than that, the ride quality is nice and supple (Montes and Spax, with Superflex bushes) and even large bumps and ridges mid-bend do not upset the balance. :D

The brakes too have settled in very nicely. The pedal is nice and firm and the brakes (Fiesta front discs) are powerful and easy to modulate.

So I am extremely happy with the car's set up for the time being. I just need to try it on a circuit now!

I still need to tackle chores on the car, like welding up holes in bulkheads (not rust holes!), some minor electrical gremlins, the cooling system, bracing the front structure a bit more (where the heater box was removed) and so on. But the car seems to have the makings of a reasonably quick sprint/hillclimb car, which was the plan!

Watch this space... :wink:

IM 8)
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Post by ImpManiac »

Someone else suggested aluminium tape for the holes. My reasons for wanting to weld the holes up are for neatness and because I want to learn how to patch holes in bodywork for when it rusts, including refinishing the paint work for an invisible repair. But maybe, if aluminium tape is okay with scrutineers, it might be good enough for me too, for now.

I'll see how my welding goes when I can get hold of some scraps to practice on. It wasn't great before, when I tried! :oops: I need to get hold of some different screens for my welding mask because the one in there now is way too dark and I cannot see what I'm doing! :? Not good!

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Post by ImpManiac »

Right. Apart from a trip to the Hop Farm, followed by a Retro-Rides meet the same month (in "convoy" with Frank 8) ) and then the Ace Cafe meet in September, my car has not had nearly enough use this year. :(

That is partly down to some relatively minor problems, namely that the windscreen leaks in the corners (new seal? :(), the side rear windows need new seals and there is a glitch with the dashboard illumination, I think the result of a dodgy earth connection somewhere. The dashboard lights flash at a rate that depends on the car's speed! :shock: :?: So I think it must be related to the speedo cable somehow. Hmmm. :roll:

Anyway, for the coming cooler months, I have some plans. On the (ever growing) list are:

1. Strengthen front body structure around where the heater box was removed for the front radiator. Fit some sort of air dam.

2. Modify front shock absorber top mountings. Fabricate and fit "strut brace" between shock absorber shafts.

3. Rebuild front radiator installation. I am not happy with it at the moment and plan to fabricate and weld in something much smarter and that works better, including ducting the hot air out of the front compartment.

4. Weld up unnecessary holes in bulkheads, etc.

5. Remake coolant pipes so that they are more accessible. They are too close together at the front and are a proper bind to try to get the flexible pipes and clips onto.

6. Treat surface corrosion underneath rear parcel shelf. Hopefully a good wire brushing and a lick of paint will sort it. Always the optimist! :wink:

7. Fabricate and fit EFI manifold and EFI system.

8. Probably modify and refit original petrol tank with FireBlade EFI fuel pump. I want to put the strength that the original tank gives the front of the car back in.

9. A general tidy up of the car's electrical and hydraulic systems would be a good idea.

Any thoughts? :o

Need more photos too. Preferably of me driving the car in competition. :wink:

"IM" 8)

P.S. I forgot to mention that I do not yet have any welding skills and I have minimal metal fabrication skills or equipment too... :?
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Post by Basildon310 »

Point 8 - Tie the 'strut brace' back to the centre of the firewall with two diagonal braces. That will be stronger than the original fuel tank and nicely triangulated!

Good luck with it all, it will be a very IMPressive bit of kit when all done! :D
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Post by ImpManiac »

:D HAPPY NEW YEAR! :D

A friend of mine from Retro-Rides posted these shots he took of my car back in November of last year, so I thought I'd share them. Thank you, DarrenW, for the pics! :D

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He's really handy with a camera! :)

Well, I've hardly even seen the car, let alone done anything on it this winter. Considering my list of chores that I posted way back, I'd better get my finger out! :? Or wait until the slightly warmer weather... :roll: :wink:

The battery needs a charge. I need to go over the electrical system to sort a few gremlins. The cooling system needs to be re-jigged a little - for example, the swirl pot needs to be properly mounted. I still want to weld up holes in bulkheads where appropriate, once I've learned to weld. :shock: :) Then there's the brakes, the carbs need balancing, mapped ignition, windscreen seal, rear side window seals, plastic slidy door windows... :wink:

Work begins soon.

IM 8)
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Post by ImpManiac »

I started work today. Here's what I was up to.

The diet begins! :P I'd forgotten how much weight there is in a heater. Anyway, my sprint car does not need it, so out it goes.

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I have removed the dash panel that housed the petrol gauge and the kill switches, together with some smaller switches for the radiator fan, petrol pump and a push button for the windscreen washer. I intend to make a smaller, lighter panel from aluminium alloy and relocate the gauge to the binnacle.

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The wiring has some minor problems, so I plan to work through everything and troubleshoot it. Nothing major but some annoying glitches. Anyway, here is the instrument panel removed.

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The front compartment without the flexible ducting. There is no heater and the fresh air intake idea never worked, so out it goes. After all, I have windows! :roll:

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This is the front radiator assembly that I made about 5 years ago. I was so proud of my achievement! :? Now, I just think it looks temporary and a bit shoddy, although it used to work okay in the old car. Anyway, say, "Bye bye." :) I am putting in a stronger steel structure that is inspired by Si T's old Imp Sport's set up.

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The radiator air intake. Hopefully, the new arrangement will be stronger and more effective at getting air in - and out - of the radiator.

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See what I mean? I spent a whole day making this and it works but is just a bit amateur. With some help, I think I can do better. :wink:

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Work continues soon. :D

IM 8)
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Post by Keith 'Supaimpy' Laming »

IM

you'll be surprised just how useful that heater can be, it's real pain having to try and keep a screen clear on the inside, especially if the cars been sat on a trailer outside all night before going to an event.

I'm building one into my Clan based on the experience with the Imp.

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Post by ImpManiac »

Hmmm. I have heard that before. I am toying with the idea of one of those electrical ones powered by the vehicle's electrical system. Lighter, I think. Plus I could take it out before driving, if neccessary. Anyway, the heater will need a thorough clean and refurb if I do put it back in there. :roll:

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Post by impmann »

Why not refit the Mk3 rad assembly - its made of plastic and compressed cardboard, not steel and therefore much lighter :idea:
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Post by benwick3 »

Put the heater back in as it's not only useful as a demister that additional amount of water comes in handy as well. The additional weight will be minimal and if you are desparate to loose weight the easiest and cheapest method is to go on a diet yourself. Don't take this as an insult but we all strive to loose weight off the car but forget about the weight of the driver.

Over the years we kid ourselves that we can increase the performance from the engine and car but I've found although this is generally true its usually balanced by the increasing weight of the driver until you reach the point where the power increases no more but the driver's weight continues upwards. I reached that point about 3 years ago.

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Post by Gerry Richards »

Weight is important but outright performance is about a lot more than just weight.

The weight of a component always has to be balanced against the benefits of having it fitted e.g. in a wet race a demister might cost you fractions of a second by virtue of the extra weight, but save you ten seconds by virtue of actually being able to see where you're going!

Bigger wheels and tyres weigh more but also give more grip etc etc
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Post by GeForce Junky »

Has anybody tried making a lightweight heater by just seconing off a small area of front radiator and using a small inline fan?
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Post by Keith 'Supaimpy' Laming »

fitted one of these to my Clan, i've made a front with three holes and flexy ducting to demist screen and put heat into car

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Its got three speed blower .


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Post by fsmlittler »

IM I find having the window open is just as effective as the heater and considerably lighter! Totally agree with the whole concept of saving weight as the best, most cost effective, way of improving performance. Just be careful if you intend competing as some roadgoing classes might insist on full trim. Looking great though.
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Post by ImpManiac »

fmslittler, thanks! It is my pride and joy! I think that the window open a little plus heat from the radiator pipes should be sufficient. A heated windscreen might be an option later in the year too, funds permitting. :)

That said... Keith, where did your heater come from? Who manufactured it? It looks small and neat.

Whilst funds are somewhat on the tight side, I might think along the lines of a smaller, lighter solution. I have some aluminium alloy sheet and I know of a demon ally welder who repaired my petrol tank for a fiver - literally... :wink:

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Post by benwick3 »

My Clan came with an early Mini recirculating type of heated. This is still fitted but not plumbed in. I find by shutting the floor outlet it picks up enough hot air from around the rad pipes to keep the screen clear when the fan is swithed on

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Post by james »

I've heard that 'Rain-X Anti Fog' does an excellent job of keeping windscreens and (GLASS) side windows clear.

Might be worth a try at about £5-7 for a bottle (several applications, and much lighter than a heater...).

I have a bottle that I haven't used yet.

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Post by ImpManiac »

Thanks, james. :) Another useful suggestion. My side and rear windows are plastic but it would work a treat on the windscreen.

I've got some holes on the windscreen pillar to weld up now that I've removed the aerial from the nearside windwscreen pillar! :roll: I have a friend who I hope will teach me the rudiments of body work.

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Post by cov_climax »

How about using the compressed cardboard defuser from a late heater and attaching a small alloy heater matrix underneath with a fan to circulate cabin air. If you go to the kit-car shows / auto jumbles you can usually pick up some decent matrices for daft money (around £5-£10).

I agree with the comments above, even on a reasonably warm day- when it rains the heater is very useful in keeping the screen from misting, that's why i still have one in my car.

Keep up the good work
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Post by james »

On perspex, I believe that you can use the anti-fog spray sold for motorcycle visors. Tends to be more expensive though, as it's sold in such small amounts.

If you add a computer fan to the above setup (cardboard diffuser+ally matrix), I spsect that it would be about ideal.

I have a '120mm' computer fan that you could have for a pint. Doesn't weigh much- far less than the Imp blower.

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Post by ImpManiac »

Well I was in my parents' garage this afternoon. I didn't get anything done on the car, though. :(

I was looking for my stash of P-clips to tidy up the wiring behind the dashboard but ended up sorting through some stuff in the garage instead. I have got almost all the bits I shall be using sorted out now, though, including the switchgear and the replacement temperature gauge I plan to fit. The gauge is electric but is "calibrated" comes with its own sender, so is better than the standard gauge in that sense. Anyway, I shall fit the gauge and sender and see how it goes. I never found any big P-clips... :roll:

That is all for now. I intend to take some time off work to make sure to progress the car and get it running again as soon as I can. :)

IM 8)
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Post by ImpManiac »

Following some good fortune in finding some scrapped but virgin steel sheet and a successful visit to a breaker's yard near my friend's house, I have almost everything to proceed with ManiacImp front radiator #2. :P I purchased a very good Ford Fiesta radiator that looks like it should do the job admirably, a small, relatively light and compact alternator and a plastic header tank that will fit really well. I realise that alternators are not needed for front radiators but I thought I'd grab one and negotiate on the whole ensemble, thereby saving me time and money in the long run. It worked too.

Photos soon. Progress soon afterwards. :wink:

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Post by ImpManiac »

I have been trial fitting the new front radiator, figuring out how to mount it, making measurements and templates. Here are some photos showing the general idea.

To add the strength lost when the heater plenum was cut out, I want to top off the box formed between the lower edge of the aperture in the front valence, the transverse ridge between the front wishbone mounting bracket and the chassis rails. The horizontal cardboard template in these photos shows the basic idea.

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And with the radiator.

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The vertical strips of cardboard represent 1" by 1" box section that I shall weld between the newly formed box and the underside of the slam panel. I shall probably add some stiffening to the slam panel too to match. Then some more 1" by 1" box horizontally between the vertical members to enclose the radiator... et voila! :P

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The question is will it work? :? I think so. I then need to duct the air out of the radiator and out of the floor. I may try making something out of glassfibre for that. I have plenty kicking about already. :wink:

Any thoughts?

IM 8)
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Post by ImpManiac »

Si,

I did see your pictures. In fact I saved them and have studied them lots in arriving at my idea, which derives from yours. My rationale in opting to adapt your idea rather than copy it is that my Fiesta radiator is somewhat taller than the Cinquecento radiator you used. It occupies much more of the height between the front compartment floor and the slam panel. So it makes sense to seal off the area immediately behind the front panel of the car, mount the radiator to that and then attach ducting aft of the radiator to extract the air.

I am less happy about how best to box the radiator in, though. I really want to avoid welding to the front panel because it will disrupt the paint work. The slam panel is okay because I could touch up the paint work there myself and it is less visible.

What do you think? Is it a reasonable plan?

IM 8)
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Post by ImpManiac »

I could use Tigaseal but, when I looked at the gaps involved between where the box section would run and the inside of the front panel, they are quite large. I thought I could use glassfibre to fill in the gaps, seal them and provide a measure of structural strength to boot. :?: The main strength, as you say, comes from the floor panel.

Rivetting the vertical members in place is a neat idea. :idea: I could (with help) weld plates to the ends of the box section pieces and use, say, four rivets per end. Then, if I ever change the radiator for one of a different size, it'd be much easier to change it all over.

Cheers, Keith. :)

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Post by ImpManiac »

The steel for the front radiator box is cut roughly to shape. I shall finish it this weekend by tickling it with the angle grinder. If I can, I shall sticky tape it all in place and take photos of what I plan to weld into the car at some point over the weekend.

Progress at last! :P

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Post by ImpManiac »

Well here is my ront radiator assembly in metal, loosely positioned.

The general layout.

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Slightly closer shot.

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The view from the front.

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Blanking plate for the petrol filler, which I don't use.

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The other side. I have made plates to seal in the radiator sides, visible here.

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The base panel.

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I am pleased with the fit! :D

And finally, my plan for adding some bracing between the front wishbone mounting bracket area and the front subframe mounting area. I might use two parallel tubes instead. Any thoughts? :?:

Image

Priming and welding soon... :wink:

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Post by bazzateer »

Dave,

If you want to email your photos to me at the address below I can post them up for you.
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Post by bazzateer »

No worries Dave. If I acquire one in the meantime I'll let you know. Actually, thinking about it, there's a chance one of my spare engines in the lock-up may have one!
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Re: ManiacImp - 17 May 2008 - Front rad mockup!

Post by ImpManiac »

Right. I have some Bilt Hamber Etchweld, as recommended above and some Dynax-S50 cavity wax from the same manufacturer. So, weather permitting, preparation continues this weekend for some welding. Two things I lack at present - argoshield and excuses! :lol:

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Re: ManiacImp - 28 May 2008 - Corrosion protection arrives!

Post by deanyboy »

Im currently waxoyling the underside of my imp, using the spray canister they sell, its messy and im not particularly keen on it! Wish I'd gone for bilt hamber now!!! :x
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Re: ManiacImp - 28 May 2008 - Corrosion protection arrives!

Post by rootes »

yes for smaller areas you can get dinitrol in a an aerosol plus a decent incavity tube and nozzle

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Re: ManiacImp - 28 May 2008 - Corrosion protection arrives!

Post by deanyboy »

Actually i've just been out and undersealed most of the car now and all arches! It is really easy to use but unlike my first effort I warmed it up prior to use in warm water, what a difference!!! :mrgreen: Waxoyl is my friend... Albeit a very messy one! :twisted:

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Re: ManiacImp - 28 May 2008 - Corrosion protection arrives!

Post by ImpManiac »

Etch primer on...

Image

Image

Image

Image

:)

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Re: ManiacImp - 31 May 2008 - Progress

Post by rootes »

erm you going to be welding onto of the etch? :?:

no getty good earth!
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Re: ManiacImp - 31 May 2008 - Progress

Post by ImpManiac »

^^ Already thought of that. Whilst it is a weld-through etch, I am prepared for removing small areas of it to allow me to weld the bits in.

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Re: ManiacImp - 31 May 2008 - Progress

Post by ImpManiac »

After a lot of back-breaking preparation :shock: , the bits to be welded in are now in weld-through etch too. The steel that I bought was in a varnish finish and grinding ot off with a wire brush on an angle grinder was fiddly, to say the least. My arms ache today!

I now have a BOC account and some ArgoShield too. Welding soon to follow! :wink:

I shall be back onto the car on Tuesday, since we are going away this weekend. I am really fired with enthusiasm at the moment!

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Re: ManiacImp - 6 June 2008 - More preparation...

Post by ImpManiac »

Thanks, Noddy. :D I am confident!

Well, I worked yesterday but only a little bit on the car. :roll: The rest of the time was unearthing my welding kit and then sorting out the garage to put all the junk back away, leaving the welding set accessible for next time.

So no pics yet. But I plan to make some proper progress in the next few days. :wink:

I need a decent - and cheap - gas regulator for my ArgoShield. Any ideas? :?:

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Re: ManiacImp - 6 June 2008 - More preparation...

Post by Dave ' Linwood ' Lane »

Any decent welding supplier should be able to supply you with a regulator , ive been running " gasless " now for quite some time , a little more difficult to get a really neat weld ( although very possible ) wires a lot dearer but no need to wory about running out of gas AND you can weld outside on a windy day. :D
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Re: ManiacImp - 6 June 2008 - More preparation...

Post by ImpManiac »

Do you need a different MIG set for gasless, though? Isn't the polarity reversed, or something? I would have considered it but I got my MIG set from a friend - FOC! :shock: Long story...

Anyway, I have an account with BOC now. I figured that, for the cost of a few disposable bottles, I could have a proper one and weld when I need to, rather than having to keep a stock of disposables in. Well, that's my view, anyway! :P I have some chores to do on the car over the autumn and winter, so it'll get used alright...

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Re: ManiacImp - 6 June 2008 - More preparation...

Post by Dave ' Linwood ' Lane »

My mig will run both gas and gasless as you say just by swaping a couple of wires around , gas is better overall but i use it gasless for convience , bad enough remembering to get the wire and tips let alone bottles of gas :lol:
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Re: ManiacImp - 6 June 2008 - More preparation...

Post by ImpManiac »

I have plenty of other chores to be getting on with on the car until the regulator arrives...

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Re: ManiacImp - 14 June 2008 - Welded Bliss!

Post by ImpManiac »

Right, following getting together the last few bits to get my welding set up and running, setting it up and practising for a few hours, I dived in and attacked the front radiator assembly welding! It's just the first piece but it's an important one - the floor strengthener. Here goes... (A massive thank you to my beautiful assistant, Mrs. ImpManiac, for taking the photos! :P )

My first (plug) weld on this particular Imp! The first of many, no doubt! :lol:

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And another couple...

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If you point that camera at me again, you know where I'll insert it... :wink:

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Complete row of plug welds - one every 40mm. Should be enough!

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Close up...

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I tried plug welding the front panel to the new piece too but vertical plug welds are more difficult, I found - especially when there's a gap behind the front panel. :roll: So I started to seam weld instead - much better! :D

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Close up (bit blurry :oops: )...

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Wider shots...

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Muggins playing with my angle grinder. Handsome brute. 8) NOT! :lol:

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Remember what I said about that camera? :x

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I warned you! :lol:

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Doing some dusting under the front compartment cover... :roll:

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So I still need to clean up the welds with the grinder and then fit the other bits but this was a big thing for me! :P I have welded my own car and the piece I welded in is stuck in! Yay! :D

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Re: ManiacImp - 14 June 2008 - Welded Bliss!

Post by chris d »

well done with the welding, it is adictive, soon you will be welding like an expert. :) :)
hope to see it at the national.
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