Imp with Rover VVC power
- Cliff Pountney
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- Car Model: Saloon with MGF running gear
Imp with Rover VVC power
I was inspired by Pat’s Rover K series Imp to build something along similar lines and now having been working on my car for a couple of years I thought it might be time to write a few words.
In February 2013 a reasonably solid ’64 shell came up on Ebay. The only serious rot was on the rear parcel shelf which was going to get cut out anyway. Then a couple of weeks later I bought an MGF off Gumtree and now had most of the parts needed for the build.
From the outside I wanted a standard look so the MGF rear track needed to be narrowed. This was done by swapping the MGF rear suspension for Metro GTA and narrowing in the subframe by 105mm. Even then I still needed very inset wheels to fit inside the Imp arches.
With the rear subframe, suspension, engine and gearbox package sorted I set about modifying the shell. Before cutting anything major out a new floor cross member and roll cage were fabricated. This would hold everything square when the rear floor and rear bulkhead were cut away to make room for the transverse mounted engine. The subframe assembly was rolled in (and out many times) to get the positioning spot on before adding the cross member behind it and the rest of the triangulating structure.
Time to move forward to the cabin. Cheap second hand bucket seats were positioned on new brackets and the steering column was replaced with a collapsible Metro part mated to the original Imp rack. A modified MGF shifter and handbrake were added as was the MGF instrument cluster.
Under the hood the MGF master cylinders were grafted onto the Imp pedal box and a new radiator was positioned up front. I didn’t want to cut Lotus style bonnet vents so instead cut an exit hole for the air where the spare wheel well usually is.
The mk1 suspension mounts were swapped to mk2 and the rack lowered to suit but this resulted in too much negative camber which had to be corrected out by modifying the hub carriers. GAZ coil overs are used front and rear. New front hubs were machined to allow me to use Metro GTA wheels and the MGF front brakes.
The shell came without doors. I picked up a pair of mk2 doors which I thought would just bolt straight in. That wasn’t quite the case and I ended up shortening the doors by about 3mm and re-profiling the window frame to get an acceptable fit. When I had the drivers door in place the Imp door handle spoilt the line of the body so a bit of project creep came in with fitting a couple of Fiat Barchetta flush door handles.
Over two years I’ve spent just under 500 hours on this and I guess I am about half way through.
The main jobs still to go are; Passenger door, make an exhaust manifold, bulkhead, tidy the body, paint and assemble.
Maybe another two years
Cliff
In February 2013 a reasonably solid ’64 shell came up on Ebay. The only serious rot was on the rear parcel shelf which was going to get cut out anyway. Then a couple of weeks later I bought an MGF off Gumtree and now had most of the parts needed for the build.
From the outside I wanted a standard look so the MGF rear track needed to be narrowed. This was done by swapping the MGF rear suspension for Metro GTA and narrowing in the subframe by 105mm. Even then I still needed very inset wheels to fit inside the Imp arches.
With the rear subframe, suspension, engine and gearbox package sorted I set about modifying the shell. Before cutting anything major out a new floor cross member and roll cage were fabricated. This would hold everything square when the rear floor and rear bulkhead were cut away to make room for the transverse mounted engine. The subframe assembly was rolled in (and out many times) to get the positioning spot on before adding the cross member behind it and the rest of the triangulating structure.
Time to move forward to the cabin. Cheap second hand bucket seats were positioned on new brackets and the steering column was replaced with a collapsible Metro part mated to the original Imp rack. A modified MGF shifter and handbrake were added as was the MGF instrument cluster.
Under the hood the MGF master cylinders were grafted onto the Imp pedal box and a new radiator was positioned up front. I didn’t want to cut Lotus style bonnet vents so instead cut an exit hole for the air where the spare wheel well usually is.
The mk1 suspension mounts were swapped to mk2 and the rack lowered to suit but this resulted in too much negative camber which had to be corrected out by modifying the hub carriers. GAZ coil overs are used front and rear. New front hubs were machined to allow me to use Metro GTA wheels and the MGF front brakes.
The shell came without doors. I picked up a pair of mk2 doors which I thought would just bolt straight in. That wasn’t quite the case and I ended up shortening the doors by about 3mm and re-profiling the window frame to get an acceptable fit. When I had the drivers door in place the Imp door handle spoilt the line of the body so a bit of project creep came in with fitting a couple of Fiat Barchetta flush door handles.
Over two years I’ve spent just under 500 hours on this and I guess I am about half way through.
The main jobs still to go are; Passenger door, make an exhaust manifold, bulkhead, tidy the body, paint and assemble.
Maybe another two years
Cliff
- colimp66
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Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
Welcome to the Imp forum Cliff.
Thank you for sharing your build on here. That looks like a great project and a well executed on at that.
Keep us posted on how you get on with it all.
Cheers
Col.
Thank you for sharing your build on here. That looks like a great project and a well executed on at that.
Keep us posted on how you get on with it all.
Cheers
Col.
- colin rooney
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Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
I owned that shell some years ago now i fitted the orange rear panel but never got to finish it and so sold it on as i had to many imps around me ,it was a nice solid shell ,you have done a nice job on the engine transplant
col
col
- bazzateer
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Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
Oooh, I like the door handles!
If I told you I was a pathological liar, would you believe me?
Barry Blackmore - Chiltern ACO, apparently.......................
Barry Blackmore - Chiltern ACO, apparently.......................
- ImpManiac
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Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
What a brilliant project! You seem to me to have taken a very good approach and got quite far with it so far. Good on you! The details are great too, like the Fiat Barchetta door handles. I like them lots!
Keep up the great work and keep us posted.
IM
Keep up the great work and keep us posted.
IM
Paul Harrison
imp: a small demon : FIEND : a mischievous child : URCHIN
maniac: Raging with disordered intellect: affected with mania: MAD
imp: a small demon : FIEND : a mischievous child : URCHIN
maniac: Raging with disordered intellect: affected with mania: MAD
- Lars Hagermark
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- Cliff Pountney
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- Car Model: Saloon with MGF running gear
Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
Thanks for your kind comments. I better crack on a bit faster!
Those door handles feature in the top ten sexiest car door handles http://jalopnik.com/5557864/ten-sexy-car-door-handles/
Cliff
Those door handles feature in the top ten sexiest car door handles http://jalopnik.com/5557864/ten-sexy-car-door-handles/
Cliff
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Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
Worrying that this even exists.Cliff Pountney wrote:...top ten sexiest car door handles...
IM
Paul Harrison
imp: a small demon : FIEND : a mischievous child : URCHIN
maniac: Raging with disordered intellect: affected with mania: MAD
imp: a small demon : FIEND : a mischievous child : URCHIN
maniac: Raging with disordered intellect: affected with mania: MAD
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Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
More worrying would be why someone is looking up sex and door handles
Peter Nunn...ey im member 00033
- bazzateer
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Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
Probably thinking of 'love handles'.
If I told you I was a pathological liar, would you believe me?
Barry Blackmore - Chiltern ACO, apparently.......................
Barry Blackmore - Chiltern ACO, apparently.......................
- long_gone_John
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Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
..... Ha!bazzateer wrote:Probably thinking of 'love handles'.
LGJ
TooMuch power.. is not quite enough ;<)
875- GGR 640N - Scrapped
930- 533 KNX - Stolen
BV998- 884 KOE (Ex Sidecar motor!!)
875- GGR 640N - Scrapped
930- 533 KNX - Stolen
BV998- 884 KOE (Ex Sidecar motor!!)
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Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
Certainly different idea Cliff, well done and keep it going - plus regular updates please.
Your comment - New front hubs were machined to allow me to use Metro GTA wheels and the MGF front brakes.
New Imp hubs or new MGF hubs?? Interested because I have an MGF and wondered about the ease of installing MGF discs instead of one of the Ford based ones. MGF steering also brings EPAS option of course.
Phil
Your comment - New front hubs were machined to allow me to use Metro GTA wheels and the MGF front brakes.
New Imp hubs or new MGF hubs?? Interested because I have an MGF and wondered about the ease of installing MGF discs instead of one of the Ford based ones. MGF steering also brings EPAS option of course.
Phil
When you're in a hole - stop digging/too much to do, too little time
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Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
MGF front calliper on a 256mm vented disc (MGF disc is slightly smaller at 240mm)philgsmith wrote: New Imp hubs or new MGF hubs?? Interested because I have an MGF and wondered about the ease of installing MGF discs instead of one of the Ford based ones. MGF steering also brings EPAS option of course.
I'll also be using MGF rear callipers on the same size as MGF 240mm rear disc, which should leave the brake balance spot on.
More info here:
http://retrorides.proboards.com/thread/ ... des?page=3
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Cheers
Frank
Frank
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Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
That is very interesting Frank - I'll read that link more thoroughly later.
It was the specific mention of MGF hubs that I queried, but I wasn't thinking .. as soon as I saw "hubs" I thought of the Imp's stub axle without thinking of the hub being separate ... d'oh!
cheers
Phil
It was the specific mention of MGF hubs that I queried, but I wasn't thinking .. as soon as I saw "hubs" I thought of the Imp's stub axle without thinking of the hub being separate ... d'oh!
cheers
Phil
When you're in a hole - stop digging/too much to do, too little time
- Cliff Pountney
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Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
New year and renewed enthusiasm so I thought I would write a bit more.
Frank – That’s a lovely build you've got going there. I know what you mean about finding it hard to keep the thread going. If I tried to post every couple of days it would say things like “This evening I managed to drill and tap one hole…”. On this build I’ve kept a log of hours and money. After I built my Land Rover I regretted not doing that.
Front hubs and brakes –
The main reason for wanting to run MGF / Rover hubs on the front was so to give the same stud pattern as the MGF / Metro set up on the rear end. This also allowed me to use Metro GTA wheels which have a large, 38mm, inset and get my rear wheels inside the standard Imp arch.
The choice of MGF brakes all round was down to the thought that the front to back distribution of an MGF is about that of my Imp and therefore the balance ought to be about right. I also used the MGF master cylinder to complete the match. That I had all these from the donor was also a big factor.
I made the front hubs by turning the stud flange off the Imp part, boring the centre out of the MGF part, and pressing the two bits together. These were then welded together and trued up to get the run out as good as possible. Longer term I may get some one piece hubs made up in aluminium.
I didn’t take any pictures of these. I’ll take some next time I am delving around in this area.
Cooling and fuel pipes –
31.75mm OD x 1.5mm wall aluminium tube was used for the radiator pipes and 5/8” OD x 1.5mm wall for the heater pipes. These were filled with dry fine sand and bent cold on plywood formers. A bead was formed on the end using a little stamping tool.
All the aluminium tube came mail order from Aluminium Warehouse. I can recommend them.
http://www.aluminiumwarehouse.co.uk/
viewtopic.php?f=18&t=29560
The fuel lines were 10mm OD x 1mm wall and were bent cold without the sand filling. These may be a bit over large but I didn’t want to limit the tuning potential . I looked at options to run them under the vehicle but I want to set the car up low and we have some really vicious speed humps at work so routing through the car with a cover looked the better option.
This lot will need insulating and covering. I’ve made a start.………
LHS door –
This needed a small amount of repair then lightening and modifying to take the Fiat door handle. The first side was fun this side seems more of slog.
Hand brake –
The handbrake abutments and operating arms on the callipers needed to be reworked again when I found the clashed with the end of the gearbox. The cables now come out vertically. I’m not sure I really like this arrangement but it was the best I could find. Internally there is a new abutment bracket and the system seems to work OK.
Still plenty to do! And looking at the surface rust forming around those welds I need to hurry up!
Cliff
Frank – That’s a lovely build you've got going there. I know what you mean about finding it hard to keep the thread going. If I tried to post every couple of days it would say things like “This evening I managed to drill and tap one hole…”. On this build I’ve kept a log of hours and money. After I built my Land Rover I regretted not doing that.
Front hubs and brakes –
The main reason for wanting to run MGF / Rover hubs on the front was so to give the same stud pattern as the MGF / Metro set up on the rear end. This also allowed me to use Metro GTA wheels which have a large, 38mm, inset and get my rear wheels inside the standard Imp arch.
The choice of MGF brakes all round was down to the thought that the front to back distribution of an MGF is about that of my Imp and therefore the balance ought to be about right. I also used the MGF master cylinder to complete the match. That I had all these from the donor was also a big factor.
I made the front hubs by turning the stud flange off the Imp part, boring the centre out of the MGF part, and pressing the two bits together. These were then welded together and trued up to get the run out as good as possible. Longer term I may get some one piece hubs made up in aluminium.
I didn’t take any pictures of these. I’ll take some next time I am delving around in this area.
Cooling and fuel pipes –
31.75mm OD x 1.5mm wall aluminium tube was used for the radiator pipes and 5/8” OD x 1.5mm wall for the heater pipes. These were filled with dry fine sand and bent cold on plywood formers. A bead was formed on the end using a little stamping tool.
All the aluminium tube came mail order from Aluminium Warehouse. I can recommend them.
http://www.aluminiumwarehouse.co.uk/
viewtopic.php?f=18&t=29560
The fuel lines were 10mm OD x 1mm wall and were bent cold without the sand filling. These may be a bit over large but I didn’t want to limit the tuning potential . I looked at options to run them under the vehicle but I want to set the car up low and we have some really vicious speed humps at work so routing through the car with a cover looked the better option.
This lot will need insulating and covering. I’ve made a start.………
LHS door –
This needed a small amount of repair then lightening and modifying to take the Fiat door handle. The first side was fun this side seems more of slog.
Hand brake –
The handbrake abutments and operating arms on the callipers needed to be reworked again when I found the clashed with the end of the gearbox. The cables now come out vertically. I’m not sure I really like this arrangement but it was the best I could find. Internally there is a new abutment bracket and the system seems to work OK.
Still plenty to do! And looking at the surface rust forming around those welds I need to hurry up!
Cliff
- 617sqn
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Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
^^ Indeed! Your project is coming along very nicely.
IM
IM
Paul Harrison
imp: a small demon : FIEND : a mischievous child : URCHIN
maniac: Raging with disordered intellect: affected with mania: MAD
imp: a small demon : FIEND : a mischievous child : URCHIN
maniac: Raging with disordered intellect: affected with mania: MAD
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Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
Coming along nicely Cliff, looks like I am going to have to up my game a bit.
Pat
Pat
- Cliff Pountney
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Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
Pat,
Your build was the inspiration for me to build a K series Imp........If I knew your address I'ld come round and break your knee caps
Cliff
Your build was the inspiration for me to build a K series Imp........If I knew your address I'ld come round and break your knee caps
Cliff
- Cliff Pountney
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- Car Model: Saloon with MGF running gear
Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
Three months since the last update so here's a few words and pictures to prove it's still moving forward.
Covers for the cooling and fuel lines have been made to protect the alumunium pipes from heavy footed passengers, it's amazing how hard they can push on the imaginary brake pedal when scared. The void around the cooling lines will be packed with Rockwool in the final build up. Sealing panels made up for where the pipes pass through the bulkheads.
Fuel tank mocked up before a simplified design was sent off to a fabricator. Boss to take MG Rover pump and and sender assembly turned up on my old Colchester Student. Both the lathe and the Imp are older than me.
Coil-over mounts fabb'ed onto rear upper suspension arms.
The most interesting job has been to make a new manifold and exhaust. I tracked down a couple of aftermarket Elise manifolds but they went for silly money. New 4-2-1 manifolds cost over £700 and the matchimgh manifold back around £400 so I thought I would have a bash at making my own. It's not pretty but unless it's on a ramp (or upside down) it can't bee seen. I spent lots of time ensuring the inside will be smooth and that it is a good fit and I am pleased with the outcome. But this task alone has taken 40 hours.
Next tasks are -
1) Move front suspension mounts up. Or modify the arms for a lower mounting?
2) Straighted out and lighten the rear crossmember.
3) Start tackling the superficially rusty bits.
Thanks for reading and best wishes,
Cliff
Covers for the cooling and fuel lines have been made to protect the alumunium pipes from heavy footed passengers, it's amazing how hard they can push on the imaginary brake pedal when scared. The void around the cooling lines will be packed with Rockwool in the final build up. Sealing panels made up for where the pipes pass through the bulkheads.
Fuel tank mocked up before a simplified design was sent off to a fabricator. Boss to take MG Rover pump and and sender assembly turned up on my old Colchester Student. Both the lathe and the Imp are older than me.
Coil-over mounts fabb'ed onto rear upper suspension arms.
The most interesting job has been to make a new manifold and exhaust. I tracked down a couple of aftermarket Elise manifolds but they went for silly money. New 4-2-1 manifolds cost over £700 and the matchimgh manifold back around £400 so I thought I would have a bash at making my own. It's not pretty but unless it's on a ramp (or upside down) it can't bee seen. I spent lots of time ensuring the inside will be smooth and that it is a good fit and I am pleased with the outcome. But this task alone has taken 40 hours.
Next tasks are -
1) Move front suspension mounts up. Or modify the arms for a lower mounting?
2) Straighted out and lighten the rear crossmember.
3) Start tackling the superficially rusty bits.
Thanks for reading and best wishes,
Cliff
- ImpManiac
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Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
Lovely work, Clive! Now you know why exhausts aren't cheap. The time involved fabricating them, plus the cost of materials (tube, welding consumables, etc.), is considerable. But yours looks really good.
IM
IM
Paul Harrison
imp: a small demon : FIEND : a mischievous child : URCHIN
maniac: Raging with disordered intellect: affected with mania: MAD
imp: a small demon : FIEND : a mischievous child : URCHIN
maniac: Raging with disordered intellect: affected with mania: MAD
- Cliff Pountney
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- Car Model: Saloon with MGF running gear
Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
I've been working to get the rear end closed up.
The rear cross member has been stripped back to leave just the outer skin. Rust holes patched and lightening /air exit holes made. Although from a philosophical point of of view it does seem strange to close up its 'natural' lightening holes and add new ones
I've added a recovery eye for those unintended excursions off the tarmac. This is welded to the right hand side chassis rail as it looked like the battery tray makes that side stronger.
The engine cover was bolted on and suddenly it has the appearance of an assembled car. Woo hoo!
Cliff
The rear cross member has been stripped back to leave just the outer skin. Rust holes patched and lightening /air exit holes made. Although from a philosophical point of of view it does seem strange to close up its 'natural' lightening holes and add new ones
I've added a recovery eye for those unintended excursions off the tarmac. This is welded to the right hand side chassis rail as it looked like the battery tray makes that side stronger.
The engine cover was bolted on and suddenly it has the appearance of an assembled car. Woo hoo!
Cliff
- colin rooney
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Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
As Colin said, the car looks superb. Your attention to detail is great. I hope to get to see the car at some point.
IM
IM
Paul Harrison
imp: a small demon : FIEND : a mischievous child : URCHIN
maniac: Raging with disordered intellect: affected with mania: MAD
imp: a small demon : FIEND : a mischievous child : URCHIN
maniac: Raging with disordered intellect: affected with mania: MAD
- Cliff Pountney
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Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
Paul,
There has been nothing exceptionally difficult. It's just all been a bit long winded. Here are a couple of pointers -
1) If you don't mind having the rear wheels sticking out two inches or so then you can use a standard Metro / MGF subframe. I did not want to fit arches so I spent a great deal of time narrowing the subframe.
2) 13" wheel don't fit on the MGF rear suspension. I ended up using Metro front suspension instead.
3) Put the removable rear cross member back in before cutting and welding the back body up. Else you find it's half an inch too long when you come to refit it
4) Buy a whole MGF donor and where possible try and use entire MGF systems as the systems engineering has already been done.
If you are anywhere near Chelmsford, Essex feel free to drop in.
Cliff
There has been nothing exceptionally difficult. It's just all been a bit long winded. Here are a couple of pointers -
1) If you don't mind having the rear wheels sticking out two inches or so then you can use a standard Metro / MGF subframe. I did not want to fit arches so I spent a great deal of time narrowing the subframe.
2) 13" wheel don't fit on the MGF rear suspension. I ended up using Metro front suspension instead.
3) Put the removable rear cross member back in before cutting and welding the back body up. Else you find it's half an inch too long when you come to refit it
4) Buy a whole MGF donor and where possible try and use entire MGF systems as the systems engineering has already been done.
If you are anywhere near Chelmsford, Essex feel free to drop in.
Cliff
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Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
Thank you, Cliff. I do get over that way once in a while.
That's good advice on the modifications too.
IM
That's good advice on the modifications too.
IM
Paul Harrison
imp: a small demon : FIEND : a mischievous child : URCHIN
maniac: Raging with disordered intellect: affected with mania: MAD
imp: a small demon : FIEND : a mischievous child : URCHIN
maniac: Raging with disordered intellect: affected with mania: MAD
- Cliff Pountney
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- Car Model: Saloon with MGF running gear
Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
Hi all,
I haven't worked on the Imp during the summer but now the nights are drawing in I am back on it with renewed enthusiasm.
In no particular order since the last update ...
Harness bars -
Cut and tacked in 50x2mm CDS tubes for the upper harness mounts
Crotch strap mounts -
Fitted an extra mount into the floor for the harness crotch strap. This will need a backing plate when I get around to rolling the car over to sort the floor out.
Tidied up the rear quarters -
When I cut away the lower rear part to fit a repair panel I found the inner wings also needed repair. I guess I shouldn't be surprised.
Whilst cutting the inner wings about this dropped out. Initially I thought it might be a bag of contraband or cash but it disappointingly it turned out to be some primitive sound insulation. Anyone seen that before?
More LHS door -
Refitted fitted, faffed about with and filled LHS door before taking it off for primer.
Door bars -
I added some extra crash protection as I have little faith in my driving ability and also thought it would add some extra stiffness by enclosing the whole door opening. Plus I like the look!
Fuel tank-
Mounted the tank which was made up for me.
Colin - Ages ago you asked for some steering column pictures. I finally remembered to take some!
Still plenty to do.
Cliff
I haven't worked on the Imp during the summer but now the nights are drawing in I am back on it with renewed enthusiasm.
In no particular order since the last update ...
Harness bars -
Cut and tacked in 50x2mm CDS tubes for the upper harness mounts
Crotch strap mounts -
Fitted an extra mount into the floor for the harness crotch strap. This will need a backing plate when I get around to rolling the car over to sort the floor out.
Tidied up the rear quarters -
When I cut away the lower rear part to fit a repair panel I found the inner wings also needed repair. I guess I shouldn't be surprised.
Whilst cutting the inner wings about this dropped out. Initially I thought it might be a bag of contraband or cash but it disappointingly it turned out to be some primitive sound insulation. Anyone seen that before?
More LHS door -
Refitted fitted, faffed about with and filled LHS door before taking it off for primer.
Door bars -
I added some extra crash protection as I have little faith in my driving ability and also thought it would add some extra stiffness by enclosing the whole door opening. Plus I like the look!
Fuel tank-
Mounted the tank which was made up for me.
Colin - Ages ago you asked for some steering column pictures. I finally remembered to take some!
Still plenty to do.
Cliff
- ImpManiac
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Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
Tidy work, Cliff.
IM
IM
Paul Harrison
imp: a small demon : FIEND : a mischievous child : URCHIN
maniac: Raging with disordered intellect: affected with mania: MAD
imp: a small demon : FIEND : a mischievous child : URCHIN
maniac: Raging with disordered intellect: affected with mania: MAD
- Grahame59
- Posts: 328
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Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
Cliff,
Great job so far!
The bags of sound insulation you query are in fact standard on Imps and are often referred to on this forum as 'crushed sheep' though I think pulped paper is more likely! There are usually around 10-12 per car and they are fitted under the rear seat squab and into the nether regions of the rear wings. The problem is, if the bags tear (as yours has) the stuffing falls out and absorbs moisture, causing rust in no time. Many people omit them when restoring an Imp but they are actually very effective sound insulation. If you decide to keep them they should be double- or treble-bagged (thick freezer bags work well) and inserted VERY carefully so that no jagged metal can tear the bag. Also worth Waxoyling the inner panels while they're out.
Great job so far!
The bags of sound insulation you query are in fact standard on Imps and are often referred to on this forum as 'crushed sheep' though I think pulped paper is more likely! There are usually around 10-12 per car and they are fitted under the rear seat squab and into the nether regions of the rear wings. The problem is, if the bags tear (as yours has) the stuffing falls out and absorbs moisture, causing rust in no time. Many people omit them when restoring an Imp but they are actually very effective sound insulation. If you decide to keep them they should be double- or treble-bagged (thick freezer bags work well) and inserted VERY carefully so that no jagged metal can tear the bag. Also worth Waxoyling the inner panels while they're out.
Grahame Pearson
Member No. 23
Editor, Impressions
1967 Imp Super
(0-60 like a Porsche, only slower)
Member No. 23
Editor, Impressions
1967 Imp Super
(0-60 like a Porsche, only slower)
- Cliff Pountney
- Posts: 59
- Joined: Thu Apr 19, 2012 4:56 pm
- Club Member: No
- Car Model: Saloon with MGF running gear
Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
Thanks guys.
I'm doing my favourite bit now - cutting and folding sheet aluminium for the engine bulkhead and cover. I've cut up so many Weetabix packets that I would now qualify for a Blue Peter badge. Where are my round nosed scissors........
The sound insulation won't be going back in. Ear plugs will be order of the day. I think I will be squirting plenty of waxoil around though.
Cliff
I'm doing my favourite bit now - cutting and folding sheet aluminium for the engine bulkhead and cover. I've cut up so many Weetabix packets that I would now qualify for a Blue Peter badge. Where are my round nosed scissors........
The sound insulation won't be going back in. Ear plugs will be order of the day. I think I will be squirting plenty of waxoil around though.
Cliff
- Cliff Pountney
- Posts: 59
- Joined: Thu Apr 19, 2012 4:56 pm
- Club Member: No
- Car Model: Saloon with MGF running gear
Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
Engine enclosure
I enclosed the whole area behind the roll bar and up to rear window level. This leaves good access around the engine and room for future upgrades; supercharger? Gas turbine? Flux capacitor? (that shows my age!). The top cover is the main access to the engine and can be taken off in a few seconds. The front panel is also removable and comes out in a couple of minutes once the seats are out.
I've left the protective covering on the aluminium sheet so the pictures aren't that great. Sorry.
All the removable panels are secured with either M6 thumb screws or M6 bolts into nut plates like this one.
The larger panels are braced with angle aluminium to hopefully kill some of the drumming noise. Maybe.........
Air filter housing
The left hand top panel also houses the air filter box. A K&N cone filter is mounted in the box on a tapered spigot. The box is covered in foam to minimise heat pick up. The cover on top will seal to an opening in the window where the cold air will be drawn from. I may fabricate a forward facing scope on the window to see if there is any benefit to be had from the ran air effect.
Cliff
I enclosed the whole area behind the roll bar and up to rear window level. This leaves good access around the engine and room for future upgrades; supercharger? Gas turbine? Flux capacitor? (that shows my age!). The top cover is the main access to the engine and can be taken off in a few seconds. The front panel is also removable and comes out in a couple of minutes once the seats are out.
I've left the protective covering on the aluminium sheet so the pictures aren't that great. Sorry.
All the removable panels are secured with either M6 thumb screws or M6 bolts into nut plates like this one.
The larger panels are braced with angle aluminium to hopefully kill some of the drumming noise. Maybe.........
Air filter housing
The left hand top panel also houses the air filter box. A K&N cone filter is mounted in the box on a tapered spigot. The box is covered in foam to minimise heat pick up. The cover on top will seal to an opening in the window where the cold air will be drawn from. I may fabricate a forward facing scope on the window to see if there is any benefit to be had from the ran air effect.
Cliff
- ImpManiac
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Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
It is good to see that you're continuing to make excellent progress with this beastie, Cliff. Top work!
IM
IM
Paul Harrison
imp: a small demon : FIEND : a mischievous child : URCHIN
maniac: Raging with disordered intellect: affected with mania: MAD
imp: a small demon : FIEND : a mischievous child : URCHIN
maniac: Raging with disordered intellect: affected with mania: MAD
- Cliff Pountney
- Posts: 59
- Joined: Thu Apr 19, 2012 4:56 pm
- Club Member: No
- Car Model: Saloon with MGF running gear
Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
Hi All,
I hope you all had a great Christmas. I work for an old school manufacturing company which has a compulsory shut down so in between family visits, parties, and other commitments I managed to get a good few days out in the garage.
Front suspension
To get a sensible amount of compressive travel at my desired ride height I moved the top mount up by about 25mm. Stripping the suspension down again I found that there is a separate bolt in top mount (this is my first Imp). It seemed easier to modify this than to move the body side platform. A hole was cut in the mount and a top hat section made from 50x2mm CDS welded in. The body platform then just needed the hole enlarged to take the modified mount.
Radiator ducting
A duct was fabricated to connect the rear of the radiator to the hole where the spare wheel well used to be. BTW that spare wheel panel is in very good shape, anyone need a repair panel? This ducting makes use of the low pressure zone under the car to pull air through the radiator and stops the fuel tank from getting hot. The design was awkward as it needed to be easily removable and clear the brake master cylinder. The gaps by the radiator end tanks will be filled with a self adhesive foam strip.
Steering rack and TCAs
This was done a while back but I hadn't taken any good photos. The inner metalastic joints were knackered so it seemed a good idea to replace them with rose joints. The rack is counter bored as standard so stepped sleeves were machined as a press fit into the rack and a tight fit into the rose joint. These are held in with the standard bolts, bridging washer. and tab washer. The arms are made up from 14mm bright mild steel bar with a Fiesta ball joint on the outer (right hand 1/2" UNC thread I think) and a 14mm left hand thread on the rose joint end. Hopefully the photos make up for the poor description!
Body shell roller
Although the floor and sills are solid there is still plenty of work to do on the underside. In a Scrapheap Challenge style I searched around the garage and shed and came up with this. Apart from a few exhaust clamps it was all material which I had lying around! The geared head is made from a 1960s Fairy PTO winch which I think was scrapped due to the worm and wheel being worn. Anyway building it kept me entertained.......
In action video -
Best wishes and a happy new year,
Cliff
I hope you all had a great Christmas. I work for an old school manufacturing company which has a compulsory shut down so in between family visits, parties, and other commitments I managed to get a good few days out in the garage.
Front suspension
To get a sensible amount of compressive travel at my desired ride height I moved the top mount up by about 25mm. Stripping the suspension down again I found that there is a separate bolt in top mount (this is my first Imp). It seemed easier to modify this than to move the body side platform. A hole was cut in the mount and a top hat section made from 50x2mm CDS welded in. The body platform then just needed the hole enlarged to take the modified mount.
Radiator ducting
A duct was fabricated to connect the rear of the radiator to the hole where the spare wheel well used to be. BTW that spare wheel panel is in very good shape, anyone need a repair panel? This ducting makes use of the low pressure zone under the car to pull air through the radiator and stops the fuel tank from getting hot. The design was awkward as it needed to be easily removable and clear the brake master cylinder. The gaps by the radiator end tanks will be filled with a self adhesive foam strip.
Steering rack and TCAs
This was done a while back but I hadn't taken any good photos. The inner metalastic joints were knackered so it seemed a good idea to replace them with rose joints. The rack is counter bored as standard so stepped sleeves were machined as a press fit into the rack and a tight fit into the rose joint. These are held in with the standard bolts, bridging washer. and tab washer. The arms are made up from 14mm bright mild steel bar with a Fiesta ball joint on the outer (right hand 1/2" UNC thread I think) and a 14mm left hand thread on the rose joint end. Hopefully the photos make up for the poor description!
Body shell roller
Although the floor and sills are solid there is still plenty of work to do on the underside. In a Scrapheap Challenge style I searched around the garage and shed and came up with this. Apart from a few exhaust clamps it was all material which I had lying around! The geared head is made from a 1960s Fairy PTO winch which I think was scrapped due to the worm and wheel being worn. Anyway building it kept me entertained.......
In action video -
Best wishes and a happy new year,
Cliff
- ImpManiac
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- Joined: Tue Feb 01, 2005 3:48 pm
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Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
Hi Cliff. A happy new year to you too!
I have Rose-jointed steering arms on my Chamois road/track car too. They really sharpen up the steering and there seemed to me to be little, if any, detriment in using them.
Great work on the car! I like the engineering you are doing to adapt the suspension to suit your setup - the lowering of the front mounts, modification to the mounting plate, etc. My front radiator arrangement is similar to yours too. I was not running the duct on the rear of the radiator in the 1,500 miles or so that I did in the car before dismantling it but I certainly plan to when I reinstate the car at some point.
Following with interest!
IM
I have Rose-jointed steering arms on my Chamois road/track car too. They really sharpen up the steering and there seemed to me to be little, if any, detriment in using them.
Great work on the car! I like the engineering you are doing to adapt the suspension to suit your setup - the lowering of the front mounts, modification to the mounting plate, etc. My front radiator arrangement is similar to yours too. I was not running the duct on the rear of the radiator in the 1,500 miles or so that I did in the car before dismantling it but I certainly plan to when I reinstate the car at some point.
Following with interest!
IM
Paul Harrison
imp: a small demon : FIEND : a mischievous child : URCHIN
maniac: Raging with disordered intellect: affected with mania: MAD
imp: a small demon : FIEND : a mischievous child : URCHIN
maniac: Raging with disordered intellect: affected with mania: MAD
- Cliff Pountney
- Posts: 59
- Joined: Thu Apr 19, 2012 4:56 pm
- Club Member: No
- Car Model: Saloon with MGF running gear
Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
Hi All,
Since Christmas I mainly seem to have been doing all the small jobs. The loom and drive shaft were a bit more 'meaty' but all the rest have been of the snack variety
Wiring loom
When I stripped the MGF I very carefully removed and kept all of the original wiring loom but many of the functions were not going to be required on the Imp so diet time. Wiring for ABS, electric windows, ePAS, sound system, etc were all stripped out. I like to do this by hanging the loom at eye height and with the aid of a circuit diagram pull out the wires one circuit at a time. I've not rewrapped the loom yet just in case I've got something wrong!
Before
During
3.5kg save!
Driveshaft shortening
I've put this up on the 16v Mini forum as it is more thier sort of thing....
http://www.16vminiclub.com/showthread.php?p=368349
Throttle pedal stop
HVAC motor (yacht bilge ventilation fan) and ducting
Isolator switch
Subframe bracing and tidy up of rear
Plus a hundred (well it feels like that many) other small jobs.
Cliff
Since Christmas I mainly seem to have been doing all the small jobs. The loom and drive shaft were a bit more 'meaty' but all the rest have been of the snack variety
Wiring loom
When I stripped the MGF I very carefully removed and kept all of the original wiring loom but many of the functions were not going to be required on the Imp so diet time. Wiring for ABS, electric windows, ePAS, sound system, etc were all stripped out. I like to do this by hanging the loom at eye height and with the aid of a circuit diagram pull out the wires one circuit at a time. I've not rewrapped the loom yet just in case I've got something wrong!
Before
During
3.5kg save!
Driveshaft shortening
I've put this up on the 16v Mini forum as it is more thier sort of thing....
http://www.16vminiclub.com/showthread.php?p=368349
Throttle pedal stop
HVAC motor (yacht bilge ventilation fan) and ducting
Isolator switch
Subframe bracing and tidy up of rear
Plus a hundred (well it feels like that many) other small jobs.
Cliff
- colimp66
- Posts: 702
- Joined: Wed Dec 17, 2008 8:17 pm
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- Car Model: 1970 Hillman Imp Deluxe.. "The Pest"
- Location: Dunbar, East Lothian, Scotland
- Has thanked: 60 times
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Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
Cracking work as usual Cliff and to a great standard too.
I really like your take on making the throttle pedal, very clever . If you don't mind I may pinch that idea for my build .
Cheers
Col.
I really like your take on making the throttle pedal, very clever . If you don't mind I may pinch that idea for my build .
Cheers
Col.
- ImpManiac
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- Joined: Tue Feb 01, 2005 3:48 pm
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Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
As above, lovely work!
IM
IM
Paul Harrison
imp: a small demon : FIEND : a mischievous child : URCHIN
maniac: Raging with disordered intellect: affected with mania: MAD
imp: a small demon : FIEND : a mischievous child : URCHIN
maniac: Raging with disordered intellect: affected with mania: MAD
- Cliff Pountney
- Posts: 59
- Joined: Thu Apr 19, 2012 4:56 pm
- Club Member: No
- Car Model: Saloon with MGF running gear
Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
Colin,
Take what ideas you like. In fact there have been some days when you could have turned up with a trailer and taken the whole thing
The key to throttle pedals is getting the feel right. I used to work in an area called "Performance Feel and Drivability". We believed that the correct throttle movement could only be measured in terms of the driver's ankle rotation. The magic figure is 12degs of ankle rotation from closed to WOT. You can then just load the springing up taste.
Cliff
Take what ideas you like. In fact there have been some days when you could have turned up with a trailer and taken the whole thing
The key to throttle pedals is getting the feel right. I used to work in an area called "Performance Feel and Drivability". We believed that the correct throttle movement could only be measured in terms of the driver's ankle rotation. The magic figure is 12degs of ankle rotation from closed to WOT. You can then just load the springing up taste.
Cliff
- Cliff Pountney
- Posts: 59
- Joined: Thu Apr 19, 2012 4:56 pm
- Club Member: No
- Car Model: Saloon with MGF running gear
Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
Gents,
Three months have whizzed by and as always not as much progress has been made as hoped But I've been busy doing other stuff so that's my choice.
Column seal
There was a need to tidy up and seal where the hybrid Metro / Imp steering column pierced the floor. This was complicated by the fact I had moved the rack down an inch to match the lowered suspension pick up points. I ended up just cutting a piece of EPDM rubber mat I had hanging around and fabricating some sheet metal work to hold it.
Shell
I've been working my way around the shell welding up some small areas and generally tidying. The underside, arches, etc were wire brushed, keyed and degreased before getting one coat of Rustoleum primer and two coats of gloss black Rustoleum Combicolor.
All the inside and the roll cage got the same prep' but just had a single heavy coat of Rustoleum and no primer. Gotta keep the weight (and cost) down
So far I'm really pleased with the Rustoleum. It goes on easy (I thinned it a little) and has dried to a great smooth glossy finish. I found the best place to buy it from was Cromwell Tools who are knocking out a limited range of colours at £10.89 for 750ml.
Cooling opening and front panel
I've not been very happy with the cooling opening I had cut in the lower grille, it didn't line up well with my MGF radiator and needed some action to get air on the top half. After looking at various Imp fronts on line and playing around with tape and marker pens I arrived at this opening for the upper area, The opening is smaller than a standard number plate so If later I don't need it it is easy to cover up.
The opening was made by cutting a 20mm hole in each corner using a QMax cutter. Cuts were then made with a slitting disc 10mm inside the finished size. Angle, box and clamps were then used to clamp the panel and the 10mm folded over to make the return. Little curved bits were welded in to make the return in the corners. Having cut two holes in the front panel it now felt a bit flimsy so a piece of 20mm box was added along the bottom of the new opening.
At the same time a recovery loop was added picking up on the LHS chassis rail.
The front panel had a lot of surface rust so rather than mess around with spot fixes all the paint was brushed off before prepping and rattle canning primer on.
Still plenty more bodywork to do!
Best wishes,
Cliff
Three months have whizzed by and as always not as much progress has been made as hoped But I've been busy doing other stuff so that's my choice.
Column seal
There was a need to tidy up and seal where the hybrid Metro / Imp steering column pierced the floor. This was complicated by the fact I had moved the rack down an inch to match the lowered suspension pick up points. I ended up just cutting a piece of EPDM rubber mat I had hanging around and fabricating some sheet metal work to hold it.
Shell
I've been working my way around the shell welding up some small areas and generally tidying. The underside, arches, etc were wire brushed, keyed and degreased before getting one coat of Rustoleum primer and two coats of gloss black Rustoleum Combicolor.
All the inside and the roll cage got the same prep' but just had a single heavy coat of Rustoleum and no primer. Gotta keep the weight (and cost) down
So far I'm really pleased with the Rustoleum. It goes on easy (I thinned it a little) and has dried to a great smooth glossy finish. I found the best place to buy it from was Cromwell Tools who are knocking out a limited range of colours at £10.89 for 750ml.
Cooling opening and front panel
I've not been very happy with the cooling opening I had cut in the lower grille, it didn't line up well with my MGF radiator and needed some action to get air on the top half. After looking at various Imp fronts on line and playing around with tape and marker pens I arrived at this opening for the upper area, The opening is smaller than a standard number plate so If later I don't need it it is easy to cover up.
The opening was made by cutting a 20mm hole in each corner using a QMax cutter. Cuts were then made with a slitting disc 10mm inside the finished size. Angle, box and clamps were then used to clamp the panel and the 10mm folded over to make the return. Little curved bits were welded in to make the return in the corners. Having cut two holes in the front panel it now felt a bit flimsy so a piece of 20mm box was added along the bottom of the new opening.
At the same time a recovery loop was added picking up on the LHS chassis rail.
The front panel had a lot of surface rust so rather than mess around with spot fixes all the paint was brushed off before prepping and rattle canning primer on.
Still plenty more bodywork to do!
Best wishes,
Cliff
- colimp66
- Posts: 702
- Joined: Wed Dec 17, 2008 8:17 pm
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- Location: Dunbar, East Lothian, Scotland
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Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
Cliff,
That is looking good and with that paint on it should last forever as it is well protected from the elements with what you have done.
I am also using a similar steering column in my Imp from a MGTF so I can make it adjustable or at least fixed and lower than a standard Imp steering wheel position. How you have done the seal at the floor end was how I was thinking of doing mine as well. Goo dot see someone else on the same lines as I am thinking.
Keep us posted on the continuing progress.
Cheers
Col.
That is looking good and with that paint on it should last forever as it is well protected from the elements with what you have done.
I am also using a similar steering column in my Imp from a MGTF so I can make it adjustable or at least fixed and lower than a standard Imp steering wheel position. How you have done the seal at the floor end was how I was thinking of doing mine as well. Goo dot see someone else on the same lines as I am thinking.
Keep us posted on the continuing progress.
Cheers
Col.
- ImpManiac
- Posts: 1855
- Joined: Tue Feb 01, 2005 3:48 pm
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- Has thanked: 184 times
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Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
Great work, Cliff! As Colin says, the car should last a while with that protection on it.
IM
IM
Paul Harrison
imp: a small demon : FIEND : a mischievous child : URCHIN
maniac: Raging with disordered intellect: affected with mania: MAD
imp: a small demon : FIEND : a mischievous child : URCHIN
maniac: Raging with disordered intellect: affected with mania: MAD
- Cliff Pountney
- Posts: 59
- Joined: Thu Apr 19, 2012 4:56 pm
- Club Member: No
- Car Model: Saloon with MGF running gear
Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
Colin,
The body side of my column seal looks like this.
I also had to machine the rotating surface to make it concentric.
Those two bits aren't just held together with the weld there is an internal bar which is splined and pinned
Cliff
The body side of my column seal looks like this.
I also had to machine the rotating surface to make it concentric.
Those two bits aren't just held together with the weld there is an internal bar which is splined and pinned
Cliff
- Cliff Pountney
- Posts: 59
- Joined: Thu Apr 19, 2012 4:56 pm
- Club Member: No
- Car Model: Saloon with MGF running gear
Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
Well summer has whizzed by and I've got pretty much all the Imp body work done. There's plenty of flaws but I have exhausted my patience for filling, sanding, and painting so it's not getting any more work.
Luggage compartment painted with Rustoleum
Front panel straightening
Its had a knock on the front right at some point and I couldn't get the hood to fit. Using a bottle jack and an improvised frame braced back to the roll cage it was possible to push that side out a bit and improve the fit.
Bonnet pins
A couple of brackets were knocked up to bolt into the corners and take some bonnet pins.
Paint
By now the car was a mixture of the original 1964 finish, old repairs, and new acrylic rattle can primer. I had been researching what to paint it with and coming to no conclusions. I even approached some professional painters but their prices were astronomical. I sort advice from a local supplier, Leonard Brooks (successors), in Harold Wood and they recommended using cellulose and assured my that it would be OK over the acrylic primer (I took a can to show them). So armed with 2.5l of satin black paint, a gallon of thinners, and a gravity spray gun bought from Lidl (£9.99) I thought I would give it a bash on the engine cover.
I've never sprayed anything with a gun before but I was pleased to find it was easier to spray cellulose from the gun than the acrylic paint from the rattle cans. I was pleased with the finish on the engine cover so no excuse not to press on and do the rest of the car.
I didn't want to get overspray on the interior or underside and it took ages (5 hours!) to get the car masked up.
The paint went on well and it wasn't too difficult to get a consistent satin finish.
I'm no painter and it won't pass close inspection but it is now all one colour, there's no runs, and the total cost was less than £70 for the paint and all the masking materials.
So next jobs; clear up the garage, vacuum up all the body work detritus, and begin to do some assembly.
Cliff
Luggage compartment painted with Rustoleum
Front panel straightening
Its had a knock on the front right at some point and I couldn't get the hood to fit. Using a bottle jack and an improvised frame braced back to the roll cage it was possible to push that side out a bit and improve the fit.
Bonnet pins
A couple of brackets were knocked up to bolt into the corners and take some bonnet pins.
Paint
By now the car was a mixture of the original 1964 finish, old repairs, and new acrylic rattle can primer. I had been researching what to paint it with and coming to no conclusions. I even approached some professional painters but their prices were astronomical. I sort advice from a local supplier, Leonard Brooks (successors), in Harold Wood and they recommended using cellulose and assured my that it would be OK over the acrylic primer (I took a can to show them). So armed with 2.5l of satin black paint, a gallon of thinners, and a gravity spray gun bought from Lidl (£9.99) I thought I would give it a bash on the engine cover.
I've never sprayed anything with a gun before but I was pleased to find it was easier to spray cellulose from the gun than the acrylic paint from the rattle cans. I was pleased with the finish on the engine cover so no excuse not to press on and do the rest of the car.
I didn't want to get overspray on the interior or underside and it took ages (5 hours!) to get the car masked up.
The paint went on well and it wasn't too difficult to get a consistent satin finish.
I'm no painter and it won't pass close inspection but it is now all one colour, there's no runs, and the total cost was less than £70 for the paint and all the masking materials.
So next jobs; clear up the garage, vacuum up all the body work detritus, and begin to do some assembly.
Cliff
- ImpManiac
- Posts: 1855
- Joined: Tue Feb 01, 2005 3:48 pm
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- Has thanked: 184 times
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Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
That's a major milestone reached, Cliff! Well done!
IM
IM
Paul Harrison
imp: a small demon : FIEND : a mischievous child : URCHIN
maniac: Raging with disordered intellect: affected with mania: MAD
imp: a small demon : FIEND : a mischievous child : URCHIN
maniac: Raging with disordered intellect: affected with mania: MAD
- Cliff Pountney
- Posts: 59
- Joined: Thu Apr 19, 2012 4:56 pm
- Club Member: No
- Car Model: Saloon with MGF running gear
Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
It's been a while, 5 months, since I last wrote. For no real reason I decided I would wait until it was back on the ground and rolling around before I would update the thread. So this is going to be a long post! On a typical production line it takes less than eights hours from the painted body arriving at one end to the finished car being screamed off into the car park at the other. I'm taking longer.....
First in were the seat belt anchorages and hand brake lever. No more gashing myself on its unfriendly bracket.
Then the MGF / Imp hybrid pedal box and the modified Metro throttle pedal. The pedal box needed a little rework as the bolt under the servo could not be reached.
Moving forward the front brake flexi's. These are standard length MGF parts from a perfomance hose kit.
Before heading back down to the other end to work on routing the rear brake flexi's. The thick tubes you can see are the handbrake cables.
A touch of tidying on the rear sub-frame then off to the powdercoater. On return the brake lines were fitted.
The heater spigots were mangled and needed some repair. These were changed to 15mm copper plumbing fittings to match up with regular 5/8" hose. More than one attempt was needed to get it tp pass the bucket bubble test.
Some aluminum sheet was knocked into shape to form a simple dash panel in on the passenger side.
At this point I realized that the windscreen vent ducting wanted to occupy the same space as the MGF instrument cluster. The area bounded by the yellow line had to go.
But If it were just cut and plated then there would be no demist air to the right hand side so some crafty bypass surgery was required.
The welding on the duct was as rough as a badgers arse but it's just an air duct and when assembled can't be seen. A bit of gaffer tape will cover the fixing screw to block that big hole when it finally goes together.
Fuel lines were refitted and the clutch line was bundled along with them. The painted kick shield covers them.
Modified suspension and rack mount also powder coated.
Through cab cooling and heater pipes refitted.
Heater assembly and cross car beam in.
Electrical assembly
To spark up some interest I moved onto the electrical system. First up was to fix up and fit rear lights.
Now the big job. Fit and cover the stripped down MGF wiring loom.
It seemed most sensible to start by fitting the thickest part, the fuse box, and work out towards the extremities.
There's a mysterious switch with a yellow cover which operates the.......
After quite some time I did finish fitting and connecting the loom and with a few small reworks everything worked!
Front suspension and steering
The rebuilt rack was filled with oil and bolted up and in best Blue Peter fanshion here are steering track rods I made earlier...
Refitting the front arms should have been an easy job except I wanted to use polybushes and no one seemed to make them for a Mk1. I guess I could have modified some Mk2 polybushes but I've always fancied trying to make my own so I did.
£10 worth of 90 shore A polyurethane 1" bar from "Direct Plastics", strapped to a bit of angle to keep it straight, and popped in with the frozen peas overnight.
Some internet research provide details of how to grind up a tool to cut polyurethane. The cutting edge was honed sharp enough to shave with and re-honed every few minutes.
8 top hat sections were machined returning the bar back to the freezer every time.
They were pressed into a jig, frozen, then faced and drilled.
Another tenner secured a length of 3/8" bore 1/2" OD stainless tube to make the inner parts of the bushes.
The assembled parts look like this
I would like to say I got it right first time, but unfortunately not, a whole evening was spent trimming the length to get arms to fit just right.
Front hubs
These have been the elephant in the room since I made them several years back. It's not a big workshop and there's no space for pachyderms. What I did back then was to machine the bolt flange off the Imp hub, machine the center out of the MGF hub, press the two parts together, and weld it up. Whilst I am reasonable confident with my welding more than one person commented that you need to be really careful welding cast steel. Once the seed of doubt had been sown I needed to do something about it. You're probably thinking why not just use the Imp hub and one of the excellent disc brake conversions. The thing is the back suspension is MGF and hence runs 3 3/4" PCD studs but Imp is 4" PCD and I wanted the use the same wheels all round, in this case some Metro GTA six spokes.
So a new concept without welding was required. Also it would be nice to push the wheels a little further out to give a little more caliper clearance. What I ended up with was a two piece approach. An inner adapter which changes the PCD. Outboard of that a spacer which also provides the correct 56.5mm register spigot for the wheel. hopefully the picture montage below shows what I would utterly fail to describe.
Raw materials -
Machining the PCD adapters -
Machining the spacers -
Build up -
Back on its wheels and out into the daylight for the first time in years!
If you've stayed with this post till the end the well done!
The Imp has been rehoused in the shed whilst another MGF is stripped for parts.
Cliff
First in were the seat belt anchorages and hand brake lever. No more gashing myself on its unfriendly bracket.
Then the MGF / Imp hybrid pedal box and the modified Metro throttle pedal. The pedal box needed a little rework as the bolt under the servo could not be reached.
Moving forward the front brake flexi's. These are standard length MGF parts from a perfomance hose kit.
Before heading back down to the other end to work on routing the rear brake flexi's. The thick tubes you can see are the handbrake cables.
A touch of tidying on the rear sub-frame then off to the powdercoater. On return the brake lines were fitted.
The heater spigots were mangled and needed some repair. These were changed to 15mm copper plumbing fittings to match up with regular 5/8" hose. More than one attempt was needed to get it tp pass the bucket bubble test.
Some aluminum sheet was knocked into shape to form a simple dash panel in on the passenger side.
At this point I realized that the windscreen vent ducting wanted to occupy the same space as the MGF instrument cluster. The area bounded by the yellow line had to go.
But If it were just cut and plated then there would be no demist air to the right hand side so some crafty bypass surgery was required.
The welding on the duct was as rough as a badgers arse but it's just an air duct and when assembled can't be seen. A bit of gaffer tape will cover the fixing screw to block that big hole when it finally goes together.
Fuel lines were refitted and the clutch line was bundled along with them. The painted kick shield covers them.
Modified suspension and rack mount also powder coated.
Through cab cooling and heater pipes refitted.
Heater assembly and cross car beam in.
Electrical assembly
To spark up some interest I moved onto the electrical system. First up was to fix up and fit rear lights.
Now the big job. Fit and cover the stripped down MGF wiring loom.
It seemed most sensible to start by fitting the thickest part, the fuse box, and work out towards the extremities.
There's a mysterious switch with a yellow cover which operates the.......
After quite some time I did finish fitting and connecting the loom and with a few small reworks everything worked!
Front suspension and steering
The rebuilt rack was filled with oil and bolted up and in best Blue Peter fanshion here are steering track rods I made earlier...
Refitting the front arms should have been an easy job except I wanted to use polybushes and no one seemed to make them for a Mk1. I guess I could have modified some Mk2 polybushes but I've always fancied trying to make my own so I did.
£10 worth of 90 shore A polyurethane 1" bar from "Direct Plastics", strapped to a bit of angle to keep it straight, and popped in with the frozen peas overnight.
Some internet research provide details of how to grind up a tool to cut polyurethane. The cutting edge was honed sharp enough to shave with and re-honed every few minutes.
8 top hat sections were machined returning the bar back to the freezer every time.
They were pressed into a jig, frozen, then faced and drilled.
Another tenner secured a length of 3/8" bore 1/2" OD stainless tube to make the inner parts of the bushes.
The assembled parts look like this
I would like to say I got it right first time, but unfortunately not, a whole evening was spent trimming the length to get arms to fit just right.
Front hubs
These have been the elephant in the room since I made them several years back. It's not a big workshop and there's no space for pachyderms. What I did back then was to machine the bolt flange off the Imp hub, machine the center out of the MGF hub, press the two parts together, and weld it up. Whilst I am reasonable confident with my welding more than one person commented that you need to be really careful welding cast steel. Once the seed of doubt had been sown I needed to do something about it. You're probably thinking why not just use the Imp hub and one of the excellent disc brake conversions. The thing is the back suspension is MGF and hence runs 3 3/4" PCD studs but Imp is 4" PCD and I wanted the use the same wheels all round, in this case some Metro GTA six spokes.
So a new concept without welding was required. Also it would be nice to push the wheels a little further out to give a little more caliper clearance. What I ended up with was a two piece approach. An inner adapter which changes the PCD. Outboard of that a spacer which also provides the correct 56.5mm register spigot for the wheel. hopefully the picture montage below shows what I would utterly fail to describe.
Raw materials -
Machining the PCD adapters -
Machining the spacers -
Build up -
Back on its wheels and out into the daylight for the first time in years!
If you've stayed with this post till the end the well done!
The Imp has been rehoused in the shed whilst another MGF is stripped for parts.
Cliff
- ImpManiac
- Posts: 1855
- Joined: Tue Feb 01, 2005 3:48 pm
- Club Member: Yes
- Car Model: Singer Chamois
- Location: Houghton Regis, Bedfordshire
- Has thanked: 184 times
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Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
Whoa! That was a significant update! The car looks so "together" now, Cliff. Great work! It is great to see such an extensively modified Imp truly begin to take shape.
IM
IM
Paul Harrison
imp: a small demon : FIEND : a mischievous child : URCHIN
maniac: Raging with disordered intellect: affected with mania: MAD
imp: a small demon : FIEND : a mischievous child : URCHIN
maniac: Raging with disordered intellect: affected with mania: MAD
- 617sqn
- Posts: 1146
- Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2003 11:17 pm
- Club Member: Yes
- Car Model: Hillman Imp 1972
- Location: Sussex, England.
- yoeddynz
- Posts: 168
- Joined: Thu Sep 03, 2009 8:10 am
- Club Member: No
- Car Model: 1965 Hillman Imp with a Datsun A12 powerhouse.
- Has thanked: 13 times
Re: Imp with Rover VVC power
Wow- what an awesome update to read whilst drinking my morning fix of coffee. Its looking great. Damn I bet you're in a happy place now as it all comes together and its rolling.
What a cool car!
What a cool car!
[https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/28896-was-yoeddynzs-1968-viva-mazda-v6-new-owner-welcome-guzzi-rat/