68 stiletto Restoration

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Fri Jul 28, 2017 5:46 pm

Painted underneath today. I found when doing the epoxy that due to all the seams and flanges you can't get the gun in everywhere so did all the arkward bits by brush including the basecoat and lacquer
Again the colour is a lot brighter than in the photo
Now colour edited about right

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Mon Aug 21, 2017 11:46 am

Hi the rear engine cross member does it have a gasket in or is it a guess the nice slide fit when painted ?
Thanks in advance

John Simister · Post by **John Simister** » Mon Aug 21, 2017 1:13 pm

Copaslip or similar is your friend. Put into the threads it makes the bolts easier to undo in the future, smeared over the ends of the crossmember it helps it to slide/spring into the body and inbhibits any rust that might form if/when the paint chips on the way in. Excess is wiped off once the crossmember is bolted in, and only if you're unlucky will any chips be visible.

The Nun · Post by **The Nun** » Mon Aug 21, 2017 3:06 pm

Ive found the rear wings can spring inwards or outwards when the rear panel is removed depending I suppose on the stresses created on the panels and shell as its being welded together or if the cars had a nudge maybe at some time in the past. I put some masking tape in the edges to protect the paint as the panel is pushed into place and remove it once the panels in, my wings happen to close up slightly on this one, then once in place squirt waxoyl into the joint and also used stainless setscrews to retain it rather the the normal steel ones, if they seize in, which they hadnt ought to if you assemble with coppaslip say, they are a right job to get out otherwise if rusted as access to the heads is very restricted, another not very good design, if it was designed that is.

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Tue Aug 22, 2017 6:28 am

Well what a mess
The old cross member with all the rot that I welded up as part of the spit was a lovely fit but the new one that is perfect is a terribly fit the os which is original is the worst .
Don't know what year the good one is but they must have re tooled at some point .
Will probably have to elongate the bottom holes as it needs to swing back at the bottom edge to bring it in line with the lower corner panel strange the old one spot on but unfortunately beyond repair

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Tue Aug 22, 2017 9:29 am

It's all the fun of owning an imp I suppose
Got to take the good with the bad
It will fit soon

big hammer coming out

The Nun · Post by **The Nun** » Tue Aug 22, 2017 10:52 am

Also many replacement panels a car might have had over the years were parts tried on the line that needed work so were rejected at assembly, mainly dented or marked and not quite perfect, so sold as aftermarket, so when you ordered a replacement part what you got could well have been one of those that needed work to fit?

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Wed Aug 23, 2017 6:27 am

Thanks for all the sound advice now that I have taken all the high spots off it's not too bad but still needs work on the lower bolt fixings just to allow to swing back slightly and a washer on the end of the chassis leg to pack it out a bit will hopefully get that done today also the engine lid fouling in a few places but couldn't get it locking correctly till I had cut out for the new locking handles good job Chris d. mentioned they are different size never even noticed

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Wed Aug 23, 2017 9:00 am

Could you also tell me the type of brake pipe fittings 3/8" or 7/16" ? Thanks, I think fuel pipe is 1/4" ,brake pipe 3/16 "? and type of pipe clip used
On the club parts list it mentions an3,an4, fitting I don't know what that means

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Wed Aug 23, 2017 3:15 pm

Thanks Peter and John took 1/2 day off work today to try and get some progress got cross member in not great as when I tried to lock the lid it was sloppy so on investigation had to get welder out again the slot I realised should be tapered and the locking clamp had deep groove in it worn from opening the lid.once both were welded it clamped well with no play
IT DOESN'T LOOK GOOD FOR THE ENGINE!!:-)

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Wed Aug 23, 2017 3:28 pm

The engine lid needed a lot of hammer and dolly work to all the flanges to get in line and not binding on body.
The gaps are ok but the rear one near the window is bigger than the sides but can't move it back further as the rear wing end points already stand proud of the lid may need,I'll have to have a think on that one

The Nun · Post by **The Nun** » Wed Aug 23, 2017 4:21 pm

The gap across the hinge line is wider it has to be otherwise the lid fouls on the edge when it's fully opened up as it goes back beyond vertical on its stay, looks OK as you have it to me.

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Wed Aug 23, 2017 9:52 pm

Thanks guy's it's a really good feeling when you start putting things back on

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Tue Aug 29, 2017 4:21 pm

Hi epoxy primed over some of the welding, then an hour later put first layer of fiberglass filler on ,will be working rear area up to doors first, so it's not too overwhelming. The lighting in the garage is better now the floor is white have also resized photos so resolution will not be as good but it saves space

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Tue Sep 05, 2017 1:18 pm

Hi bean striping engine lid there was a lot of paint on but it's nearly done now even though I shot blasted what I could it was still hard going
Will epoxy to seal it first it has a few imperfections some from the factory
I can tell from the paint layers but overall it in very good shape

ImpManiac · Post by **ImpManiac** » Wed Sep 06, 2017 11:03 am

Yes. That looks like a good engine cover.

IM

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Thu Sep 07, 2017 7:57 pm

Put a bit of heat in the garage today and managed to get some epoxy on

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Mon Sep 11, 2017 11:37 am

I have a large box of bits that came with the car could anyone Tel me where this goes
Thanks

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Wed Sep 20, 2017 7:47 am

Now that I have started the bodywork I've realized it now getting too cold to paint, disappointed but a fact so I will seal and finish fit doors ect and start on fitting suspension brake pipe and try and get loom , seats, engine all ready to just fit and wait till spring to finish outer body.any other suggestions are welcome

The Nun · Post by **The Nun** » Wed Sep 20, 2017 9:57 am

Be careful you dont get damp into the undercoats though or its start again from scratch, the moisture will bleed through as micro bubbles up to 2 years later after the finish coat has been applied, its never good to leave a car in undercoat only, unless of course its kept where dampness never occurs, which means heated or dehumidifed?

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Wed Sep 20, 2017 10:40 am

The only under coat that will remain is the epoxy, come spring I will flat it all back and re Epoxy the outside
It's a pain but as you say it's the only way even then there's no guarantee I've seen some very poor professional jobs, my own astra has a repair and they have rubbed through the basecoat and the lacquer is peeling on the edge of the door
When the high build goes on next year I flat off then seal it in and dehumidify for 24hrs it's the best I can do I'll get a good indication how I've done by the inside hopefully

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Fri Sep 22, 2017 7:33 am

Hi I emailed the manufacturer of the fiberglass filler they sent data sheet and it is waterproof, so that's good news I can leave it are carry on with the bodywork and not worry about mosture getting in
Good to know for everyone

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Fri Sep 22, 2017 6:06 pm

As it's getting colder thought I would take a look at the engine and the gearbox managed to get it apart ok box no starts 49 so think it a late one drained the oil which was very clean the engine on the others hand was horrible it's an
L4 don't know type of clutch if it's a good are bad type I would think it's just std
The box is in gear would like to see if it changes gear ok but boot sure how to do it

Dave ' Linwood ' Lane · Fri Sep 22, 2017 6:20 pm

Clutch is Morris Minor - do yourself a big favour and beat it to death , burn it with fire or lob it in a bin

The Nun · Post by **The Nun** » Fri Sep 22, 2017 6:31 pm

Put some tape around the gearbox selector shaft to protect it and then clamp on some mole grips and then you and twist and push pull the selector to test youve got all gears?
Select a gear then turn the input shaft and the outputs should turn if it's in gear

Dave ' Linwood ' Lane · Fri Sep 22, 2017 7:07 pm

Laycock diaphram type like this

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Fri Sep 22, 2017 7:21 pm

Why would anyone put a Morris minor one on ?

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Fri Sep 22, 2017 7:42 pm

Wow it must have been really heavy he had the master cylinder wrong way round the .7was on the clutch

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Sat Sep 23, 2017 8:48 am

Will the clutch release bearing have been changed to suit?

The Nun · Post by **The Nun** » Sat Sep 23, 2017 10:51 am

That type of clutch is the only one Ive ever had disintegrate on an IMP, fitted to a Stiletto I bought I wondered why the clutch felt odd under foot to my other IMP when the pedal was pressed, like you could feel a pulse back through the pedal, then one day I selected reverse the car jumped and then it wouldnt go back into gear, pulling it apart I found several of the pressure springs had fallen out and mangled everything else up, I never knew at the time they were really for Morris Minors just thought an alternative, and fitting a proper diaphragm plate there was an immediate difference and the lightness had returned.
I dont know how old the Minor clutch was or how many miles it had done, but it did work for a period obviously before saying it had had enough, I wouldnt used that type again because of my own experience with them.

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Wed Sep 27, 2017 3:27 pm

Hi cleaning gearbox today is it normal to accumulate all this gunge in the bell housing ?

The Nun · Post by **The Nun** » Wed Sep 27, 2017 4:03 pm

It's often said if it's not oily it's not got any in, where Imps are concerned

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Wed Sep 27, 2017 5:02 pm

The oil was very clean and a lot of it had a look in the inspection cover crown wheel shows some wear but I would think normal no heavy shiny marks are pitting normal engagement pattern so I iam optimistic

The Nun · Post by **The Nun** » Thu Sep 28, 2017 5:53 am

The thing that ruins the gearbox is low oil level so if it's been kept up to the mark and is clean it's probably OK at least wear wise on the gears,
The gearboxes overheat if the level is allowed to drop as they run extremely hot where they are anyway. I pulled a box apart where the level had dropped an inch and done some motorway miles running like that below the mark and the bearings had turned blue.

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Thu Sep 28, 2017 6:20 am

I also dropped box on my foot picked it up by the selecter end it was all dirty didn't see the black rubber cover and it slid stight off
Box is ok but foot smarts a bit this morning

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Fri Sep 29, 2017 4:50 pm

Started striping the engine down took the sump off doesn't look like it's been stripped before ,had a look at the top end. I don't know how the cams wear compared to other cars but the top end looks mint

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Sat Sep 30, 2017 11:04 pm

Hi could anyone please post a photo of a mk 1 front seat brackets just the bit that bolts to the floor and attached to the seat as in the photo so you can lift it up to get in the back.
Thanks

The Nun · Post by **The Nun** » Sun Oct 01, 2017 9:47 am

001.jpg

002.jpg

003.jpg

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Sun Oct 01, 2017 12:58 pm

Hi Peter that the bit I need trust you to come up trump's

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Wed Oct 04, 2017 3:25 pm

Just got head off nice and easy no stripped thread's bores look good some sediment but not much there is a large deposit of white/ blue like Cristal gunge , could this be the antifreeze remains.
Turns very easy between finger and thumb:-)

The Nun · Post by **The Nun** » Wed Oct 04, 2017 3:45 pm

Yes it will be old antifreeze which is a good sign as it looks like its got not corrosion or erosion much on the block?

The Nun · Post by **The Nun** » Fri Oct 06, 2017 1:09 pm

Of course its a lot easier if you have a shopping trolley to sit it in whilst your washing down, the spray goes straight through

must get one.
Do I need a Tesco one or Asda?

617sqn · Post by **617sqn** » Sat Oct 07, 2017 8:39 am

Surely a Waitrose one would be more befitting our top notch vehicles ?

Andy G

oli · Post by **oli** » Sat Oct 07, 2017 11:08 am

I have a set of oversize pistons available if you want to do a rebore, can't remember if they are +20, or +30 from memory. I may also have rings for them.
I also have complete short engines (standard and oversized) and rebuilt waterpumps if you need. See my post in the for sale thread.

Oli

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Tue Oct 10, 2017 7:25 pm

Sized up bores today thought it would have been ok if it had not been stored so long but it would have needed a rebore anyway
From the photos you can see there is .05mm ovality in all the bores

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Tue Oct 10, 2017 7:40 pm

Will need someone to bore the block I believe there is someone in the Manchester or Stockport area. I think he's called Andy ? If anyone can help with a name and number please pm me thanks I have been to his workshop to pick up a club rear wing but can't find him in traders ? And it was about 4years ago.

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Mon Dec 11, 2017 3:34 pm

Hi not been down garage much but things are still moving along thanks to Bob at club spares and malc, got homework instead

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Wed Dec 13, 2017 3:47 pm

Another job done

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Fri Jan 12, 2018 7:22 pm

Hi I've started to put the suspension back on I've realized there is a few bits to go on first under the front steering rack bracket
In the photo the top hole is the fuel pipe I think , is the bottom one for the Speedo and what size do I need for a stiletto, spares list two sizes 52" and one at 57" long
Thanks Gary

tiker · Post by **tiker** » Sat Jan 13, 2018 7:35 am

Thanks John lucky the outer cable is a nice tight fit in the housing and in new condition NOS I think also thought I had lost a captive nut on the body ,once the alley bracket cleaned up found one hole was threaded so it doesn't catch the cable !!!
It does help if you take them apart yourself