ALJ117K

Show off and tells us about your car, finished or a work in progress

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bazzateer
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Re: ALJ117K

Post by bazzateer » Tue Mar 10, 2015 8:25 am

Might just be the photo but that rad mesh looks a little dense to me. Hope it doesn't restrict airflow too much.?
Car's looking great, going to be a stunner.
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Re: ALJ117K

Post by The Nun » Tue Mar 10, 2015 11:07 am

Grahame59 wrote:What did you use for the soundproofing on the engine lid? I'm looking for something which is both neat and effective.

Imp011
I always use this on my engine lids
http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1545-al ... rrier.aspx
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Re: ALJ117K

Post by Grahame59 » Tue Mar 10, 2015 11:22 am

The Nun wrote:
Grahame59 wrote:What did you use for the soundproofing on the engine lid? I'm looking for something which is both neat and effective.

Imp011
I always use this on my engine lids
http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1545-al ... rrier.aspx
That certainly looks superb but how good is it as regards soundproofing? Although I only have a Sport exhaust, having at long last got round to installing a decent wireless I would like it to be a bit quieter at around 65/70mph if poss. I have all the normal Imp Super soundproofing in place but the engine lid underside is bare — Chamois were unique in having extra engine bay soundproofing in the form of a wire frame on the lid which retained a sort of sewn up bag of soundproofing mat. I imagine that would absorb quite a lot of sound.

For those who say it's a waste of time soundproofing an Imp I would disagree. I remember many years ago when I replaced the heater hoses in my Stiletto. The job of course necessitated removing all the soundproofing in the rear wings – bags full of paper pulp and also 2 big L-shaped 'pillows'. Before replacing all this I took the car for a short drive to get the cooling system up to temperature and to check for leaks. I was AMAZED how noisy the car was simply without this soundproofing.

Imp011
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Re: ALJ117K

Post by The Nun » Tue Mar 10, 2015 2:39 pm

Grahame59 wrote:
The Nun wrote:
Grahame59 wrote:What did you use for the soundproofing on the engine lid? I'm looking for something which is both neat and effective.

Imp011
I always use this on my engine lids
http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1545-al ... rrier.aspx
That certainly looks superb but how good is it as regards soundproofing? Although I only have a Sport exhaust, having at long last got round to installing a decent wireless I would like it to be a bit quieter at around 65/70mph if poss. I have all the normal Imp Super soundproofing in place but the engine lid underside is bare — Chamois were unique in having extra engine bay soundproofing in the form of a wire frame on the lid which retained a sort of sewn up bag of soundproofing mat. I imagine that would absorb quite a lot of sound.

For those who say it's a waste of time soundproofing an Imp I would disagree. I remember many years ago when I replaced the heater hoses in my Stiletto. The job of course necessitated removing all the soundproofing in the rear wings – bags full of paper pulp and also 2 big L-shaped 'pillows'. Before replacing all this I took the car for a short drive to get the cooling system up to temperature and to check for leaks. I was AMAZED how noisy the car was simply without this soundproofing.

Imp011
I doubt the aluminium fireproof insulation does much for sound proofing but it must deaden a bare panel slightly I should think, take the drumming effect out say, it can only help, and as you say the original on mine is a black duvet held in place by a wires, but that does collect the muck somewhat, and is difficult to clean off, unless your local laundrette does them, under the we do do duvets bit?, the aluminium does keep relatively clean, its easier to clean, looks smart, keeps the heat from the engine off the paintwork above.

Wireless, :? not heard that word for years, a transistor radio, my MINI has what you call a wireless accelerator pedal, but these days wireless means exactly that, fly by wire.

You only have to drive a totally unmodified original Super or Chamois to realise just how quiet they can be inside.
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Re: ALJ117K

Post by Grahame59 » Tue Mar 10, 2015 2:50 pm

The Nun wrote:My MINI has what you call a wireless accelerator pedal…
The first Imps had a wireless accelerator pedal, way ahead of its time. For a while.
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Re: ALJ117K

Post by The Nun » Tue Mar 10, 2015 3:01 pm

Grahame59 wrote:
The Nun wrote:My MINI has what you call a wireless accelerator pedal…
The first Imps had a wireless accelerator pedal, way ahead of its time. For a while.
Ah yes the pneumatic one, it must have seemed like a breath of fresh air when that was launched? Then they went back to the pull by wire version :?
When it comes to it you cant really beat the nuts and bolts version of anything, its so simple theres hardly anything to go wrong.
In fact your wireless is probably the nearest thing the IMP gets to being what one would call computerised?
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Re: ALJ117K

Post by Grahame59 » Tue Mar 10, 2015 3:25 pm

The Nun wrote:
Grahame59 wrote:
The Nun wrote:My MINI has what you call a wireless accelerator pedal…
The first Imps had a wireless accelerator pedal, way ahead of its time. For a while.
Ah yes the pneumatic one, it must have seemed like a breath of fresh air when that was launched?
I gather they had a propensity to leak which entailed a visit to the dealer to get a can of genuine Rootes topping up air. Refilling it was a breeze. :wink:
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Re: ALJ117K

Post by Dave ' Linwood ' Lane » Tue Mar 10, 2015 6:38 pm

I replaced my canvas cover with some black fire proof canvas i managed to source from Germany , i remade the grill which had rotted through with 3mm copper wire brazed together
Image
Original Chammy soundproofing was a fire resistant inner covered in a fire proof black canvas like so
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The original set up
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Re: ALJ117K

Post by Grahame59 » Tue Mar 10, 2015 7:16 pm

That looks good Dave. And I like the semi-original look too. Bearing in mind your normal thoroughness have you done any tests with and without the soundproofing, with a dB sound meter (there's a good iPhone app*)? If not, how does it stack up subjectively?

*I took a reading with this app as a passenger in Nick Webb's Imp Van. Zero soundproofing, no headlining, rubber floor mats with no underfelt and an empty load-bay which acts like a huge drum. I can't remember what the actual figure was (it was a few years ago, I must do the test again) but it was unbelievably high. Holding a conversation in an Imp Van genuinely leads to a sore throat due to having to shout.
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Re: ALJ117K

Post by Dave ' Linwood ' Lane » Tue Mar 10, 2015 7:33 pm

It definitely takes away any droning and its probably a bit quieter however my Janspeed silencer doesnt silence anymore and just directs the gasses out the back , im thinking motorbike can next
Im sorry to say this to those who have it fitted but the silver modern soundproofing just looks terrible on an old car
My personal opinion
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Re: ALJ117K

Post by Grahame59 » Tue Mar 10, 2015 7:41 pm

Noddy wrote:It definitely takes away any droning and its probably a bit quieter…
Thanks Dave. Tbh, I like the 'original' look so am hoping to find a grid like yours from a Chamois (don't suppose you still have your old one? Could pick up at National if you want to part with it). I have some fireproof black fabric I can sew up a 'bag' from and some 1/2" thick underfloor felt to insert in it which should do the trick.
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Re: ALJ117K

Post by 617sqn » Tue Mar 10, 2015 8:30 pm

28-06 055.JPG
Grahame, I used an anti-drumming self adhesive mat on Stan. It came with a black film on the top surface with a "quilt" type embossing. It's neat, self supporting and wipe clean. Came from my local motor factors if I recall correctly.

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Re: ALJ117K

Post by Dave ' Linwood ' Lane » Tue Mar 10, 2015 8:36 pm

Grahame59 wrote:
Noddy wrote:It definitely takes away any droning and its probably a bit quieter…
Thanks Dave. Tbh, I like the 'original' look so am hoping to find a grid like yours from a Chamois (don't suppose you still have your old one? Could pick up at National if you want to part with it). I have some fireproof black fabric I can sew up a 'bag' from and some 1/2" thick underfloor felt to insert in it which should do the trick.
Sorry but My grill was beyond all hope which is why i made a new one , steel strips to do this are readily available but so is 3mm round copper wire at work ( not cheap though ) which is why i used this , its "enameled " , thats to say coated ( its not enamel but thats what its called ) so it never tarnishes , i sprayed it in black electrical varnish anyway so it looks like steel , its a bit more flexible than steel hence the extra bracing on mine .
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Re: ALJ117K

Post by Grahame59 » Tue Mar 10, 2015 9:13 pm

617sqn wrote:
28-06 055.JPG
Grahame, I used an anti-drumming self adhesive mat on Stan. It came with a black film on the top surface with a "quilt" type embossing. It's neat, self supporting and wipe clean. Came from my local motor factors if I recall correctly.

Andy G.Image
Yep, that looks good too. Decisions, decisions…

Oil cooler looks good btw! :wink:
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Re: ALJ117K

Post by The Nun » Tue Mar 10, 2015 9:46 pm

I agree with having a standard look in black if your car happens to be standard, but with most cars anything but, then drifting away from that is neither right or wrong in my eyes, but whatever floats your boat, or IMP, I guess.
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Re: ALJ117K

Post by Dave ' Linwood ' Lane » Tue Mar 10, 2015 10:15 pm

the black is good that little legs has done and does work really well , its the silver that doesnt , again personal taste and all that , i bet theres some stuff ive done on mine that doesnt work for others
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Re: ALJ117K

Post by bazzateer » Tue Mar 10, 2015 11:24 pm

The Nun wrote:I agree with having a standard look in black if your car happens to be standard, but with most cars anything but, then drifting away from that is neither right or wrong in my eyes, but whatever floats your boat, or IMP, I guess.
An amphibious Imp eh? Now there's a plan!
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Re: ALJ117K

Post by will jack » Wed Mar 11, 2015 4:36 am

Neat and clean works for me. If it loses out to the clipped-in duvet, soundproofing wise, so be it.
The comment from bazzateer about the radiator mesh had occurred to me also, but it seemed worth the risk as it was available.
My bike can is from a Suzuki GS750 . The inlet is attached by a four bolt flange. If you have access to a lathe its easy to make up adaptors for any pipe size.
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Re: ALJ117K

Post by Dave ' Linwood ' Lane » Wed Mar 11, 2015 6:41 pm

will jack wrote:Neat and clean works for me. If it loses out to the clipped-in duvet, soundproofing wise, so be it.
So be it indeed , its your car so just tell me to %∂©∆∆ƒ©˙©¬˚˙ off , as said its personal choice . Stunning colour BTW , What is it ?
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Re: ALJ117K

Post by will jack » Thu Mar 12, 2015 3:51 am

Its the original Aquarius. Very seventies!
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Re: ALJ117K

Post by will jack » Thu Mar 12, 2015 5:32 am

Thought this might be of interest. Its the original book for the car. Condition isn't the best now. The dealer stamp can't be made out when reproduced on here, but it is a Hartwell stamp. The hand written notes are on the inside front cover. There's a note about Wills rings and 1 5/16" inlet valves. I would have thought that the carbs would have required changes, but apparently not. Unfortunately it was a sport engine in the car when I got it. No serial number, so it must have been a factory replacement.
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Re: ALJ117K

Post by will jack » Sun May 17, 2015 2:35 am

For various reasons progress has been really slow, but the engine bay wiring is done, now. Couldn't get the lights working. The light switch appeared to be ok , but turned out to be u.s. A new one was obtained and fitted, but still no lights. Then I realised that the feed from the ignition was missing. problem solved. I'm going to fit a fusebox and relays for the bigger loads such as headlamps, so I've been collecting correct colour coded wire for the job.
This gear knob appears to be a tatty aftermarket part that someone has fitted, but I seen a picture somewhere recently which would seem to suggest that its a tatty aftermarket part that Hartwell fitted.
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Re: ALJ117K

Post by ImpManiac » Sun May 17, 2015 5:09 pm

Keep at it. :D You'll get there. :wink:

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Re: ALJ117K

Post by will jack » Sun Jun 14, 2015 8:02 pm

I've been thinking about manifold heating. Its definitely needed, but I don't think all the time. So I've got one hose coming off the head, through the manifold and then on through the heater. I reckon if you need the heater you need manifold heating.
The bypass line has been fitted with a generic inline heater valve, rather than going with a restrictor inside the hose. In the shut position the valve allows a trickle of water through.
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Re: ALJ117K

Post by will jack » Fri Aug 07, 2015 4:48 pm

Progress has been slow. There is now a fuse box fitted, supplying main beam, dipped beam, horn and fan through relays. Tried turning over the engine on the key, only to hear a click from the starter motor solenoid. This with a fully charged battery. With the white/red wire disconnected and the solenoid fed directly from the battery, it turned over like a goodun with oil pressure registering immediately. When I checked the white/red, there is full voltage present, but it is obviously not capable of supplying the load of the solenoid. Sometimes when the ignition switch is operated, there is no ignition light showing. I suspect the switch is on the way out .Just got to find a new one now. No spark present either, but that is for another day.
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Re: ALJ117K

Post by ImpManiac » Fri Aug 07, 2015 5:24 pm

You could try a temporary feed from battery positive to starter solenoid (small terminal normally fed from the ignition switch) to test the solenoid. That would eliminate the solenoid from the possible sources of your fault. :)

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Re: ALJ117K

Post by will jack » Mon Aug 24, 2015 3:59 pm

Way back, I used to have a 28/36 on my car using a Solex bellcrank. Even though the little swivel pin that clamps onto the throttle cable was well lubricated, the cable would still start fraying at the swivel pin. I wanted to avoid that if possible so I made this up using a Volvo 740 throttle wheel.
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Re: ALJ117K

Post by glenzierfoot » Mon Aug 24, 2015 10:45 pm

will jack wrote:I'm not certain, but i think its industrial fire blanket for welding operations. Clark Dawson fitted it for me when he was doing the bodywork.
Looking good willy ,you must be nearly there . the blanket it what they use for lagging pipes in the power stations, managed to get a load of it from a friend who works at the station , easy to keep clean as well , just clean it with pre clean or petrol . Clan002 .
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Re: ALJ117K

Post by will jack » Tue Aug 25, 2015 5:04 pm

Thanks Clark. Still got bits to do. I need to make up brackets for inertia reel seat belts. A couple of the captive nuts for the seat mountings have broken free, so I am making up 3mm plates with bobbins drilled and tapped for 8mm bolts. I've already got mountings made up for Rover 100 seats. Not as trendy as Fiestas and MX5's etc, but they are comfortable.
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Re: ALJ117K

Post by imp-aus-ter » Fri Oct 30, 2015 3:23 pm

For soundproofing, has anyone tried that 'dyna-mat'? The peel and stick stuff? I know it is silver, but it is aluminium, it could be painted black?
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Re: ALJ117K

Post by tiker » Fri Oct 30, 2015 4:54 pm

I've looked at that myself the reviews on it are very good but it is expensive, maybe in this case you pay for what you get.
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Re: ALJ117K

Post by imp-aus-ter » Fri Oct 30, 2015 5:16 pm

Yeah, it is a bit pricey... however, you can buy 'door kits' and 'trunk kits' (American) and they have large boots, so basically, you van buy it a bit at a time... unless you are loaded like most impers :o :roll: :lol: and can fork out for it all in one go :wink: (That was 'attempted humour, BTW, in case anyone missed it)

I only know of it from watching 'overhaulin' on fox.... looks like good stuff...
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Re: ALJ117K

Post by bazzateer » Fri Oct 30, 2015 7:12 pm

This stuff seems to be similar to Dynamat and, I think, a fair bit cheaper.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121700778035? ... EBIDX%3AIT
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Re: ALJ117K

Post by imp-aus-ter » Fri Oct 30, 2015 8:01 pm

Yeah, there is a heap of them now.... once the chinese copy something, the cost comes down quick.... The thickness of them is different too, so you have to watch out for that.... really read closely what you are getting. I see the stuff you put up is 2mm thick... from memory, dynamat extreme is 6mm and some is 10mm.... the underbonnet is 3/4" thick.

Anything works tho.... I had some good floor mats, but had some new ones.... I put in the new ones on the floor of my imp and the other good ones are under the back seat..... even that makes a big difference :lol:
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Re: ALJ117K

Post by bazzateer » Fri Oct 30, 2015 10:49 pm

apparently that 2mm stuff is a different construction which performs like thicker stuff???
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Re: ALJ117K

Post by imp-aus-ter » Sat Oct 31, 2015 5:45 am

Only one way to find out :wink:

Let us know how it goes :)
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Re: ALJ117K

Post by bazzateer » Sat Oct 31, 2015 9:14 am

imp-aus-ter wrote:Only one way to find out :wink:

Let us know how it goes :)
You'll have to be patient. Won't be needing it for a few years yet.
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Re: ALJ117K

Post by imp-aus-ter » Sat Oct 31, 2015 3:50 pm

Well....................................................................... pull your finger out :o :lol: :lol: :wink:
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Re: ALJ117K

Post by will jack » Sat May 21, 2016 6:37 pm

Progress being made again. Sidelamps are still fed off the light switch, but the main and dipped headlights are now fed off separate relays. The bumpers were rechromed and have been fitted with MG bumper bolts. The chrome strips were painted red because the Sunbeam badge on the rear is red. A repro Sunbeam badge has been fitted. Its got four holes on the crown. I think I read somewhere that it should only have three. :o . The rack is off at the moment to get new rubber boots fitted, and filled with Land Rover hub grease. Fiesta trackrod ends are being fitted.
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Re: ALJ117K

Post by bazzateer » Sat May 21, 2016 9:41 pm

Looking nice :) :D
If I told you I was a pathological liar, would you believe me?
Barry Blackmore - Chiltern ACO, apparently.......................
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