A Californian drying out in South Africa

imp-aus-ter · Post by **imp-aus-ter** » Wed Jun 22, 2016 8:49 am

Wow, it worked

now I cant get rid of one of the pics because they are the same

imp-aus-ter · Post by **imp-aus-ter** » Wed Jun 22, 2016 8:58 am

Yes, I got around on them for years... my left leg was 3" shorter than the right because my hip had collapsed. I have since had a replacement hip, so don't use the crutches any more...

But I still have a scoliosis and back pain because my pelvis ran so crooked for so many years... now it is back level again, everything else is out of wack

However, I have gone from a constant 9 out of 10 pain level (spiking to about 13 out of 10), to about a constant 4 out of 10... so that is a bonus for me

imp-aus-ter · Post by **imp-aus-ter** » Wed Jun 22, 2016 11:19 am

sacre bleu!!!

it worked

African Imp · Post by **African Imp** » Thu Jun 23, 2016 7:33 am

It said Stop so I did, it is the only bit of un paved road this car has been on since the restoration started.

No good in the wet of course.

I wonder how legal that sign is when we have paved roads that are also marked with white lines etc?

pbergs · Post by **pbergs** » Thu Jun 23, 2016 9:54 am

[quote="African Imp"]It said Stop so I did, it is the only bit of un paved road this car has been on since the restoration started.

No good in the wet of course.

I took my Stiletto out in serious rain for the first time since I bought it three years ago. Apart from the fact that the screen emitted a fine mist of water from the edges and the wiper fell off I had forgotten what a challenge it is breaking in the wet. Since no point on the British Isles is further than 80 miles from the sea it was a close run thing. It gives a new meaning to 'anticipating driving'!

The Nun · Post by **The Nun** » Thu Jun 23, 2016 12:35 pm

Our Stiletto had extremely fierce brakes with the servo, I think it was down to the lining material that happened to be fitted, my Sport, had exactly the same set up and was never as fierce, BUT that had the version 2 Girling servo and not the version 1 of the early Stiletto, this could have something to do with it also? maybe?
Anyway I fitted discs in the end and got rid of all the hassle with seizing cylinders, imbalance and the initial cold grab you get with the drums.
Discs are nice and progressive and definitely the way to go if you dont mind sacrificing a little originality in aid of a better set up?

pbergs · Post by **pbergs** » Thu Jun 23, 2016 1:04 pm

Thinking about it Peter...I will see if new tyres make any difference. I think my Stiletto is allergic to rain.

African Imp · Post by **African Imp** » Thu Jun 23, 2016 1:33 pm

On the 1967 Imp Californian I have new drum brakes and cylinders all round, they work fine but a servo would be a nice idea?

Please don't tell me that the servo will not increase the stopping power, I have nice sized 10 shoes and I lack no power to the brake pedal, it would just be easier with the servo?

Waiting in line are the new disc brake sets I removed from the 1967 Singer Chamois before sending it to Joburg and a new owner, for now its drums all round

The Nun · Post by **The Nun** » Thu Jun 23, 2016 2:45 pm

Asbestos free linings/pads take a lot more to bed them in initially, when I was working on the container cranes they had huge disc brakes on the jib and when we had to transfer from the original asbestos type pad which could just be fitted and gently bedded in a couple of times to get the full braking performance the asbestos free ones wouldnt hold a load if done the same way, we had to get them smoking hot more or less before full braking performance was then to be had.

As per usual the new stuff was more expensive and supposedly more environmentally friendly but didnt work as good and wore out a lot quicker, must have been an EU ruling.

John Simister · Post by **John Simister** » Thu Jun 23, 2016 11:08 pm

What does seem clear is that drums, even more than discs, benefit from regular use to keep them working freely and evenly.

African Imp · Post by **African Imp** » Fri Jun 24, 2016 7:34 am

The issue of brakes has raised some important results?

Most surprising is Johns removal of disc brakes and then going back to servo assisted drum brakes.

For sure the two Sunbeam Stilettos that I have owned and one was a 998cc version had very good brakes as far as I am concerned.

On the brake sublect, does anyone know who may want some Ferodo VG95 linings?

They are Mini sized, so not Imp, 7" I think?

I have five sets of 4 pcs, they are 37mm wide and 175mm long x 5mm thick.

A test with a suitable hot air gun suggests that they are post formable, so they can be fitted to an 8" shoe and drum?

This would require a professional outfit to do the post forming and the bonding.

African Imp · Post by **African Imp** » Fri Jun 24, 2016 1:35 pm

The Nun wrote:Asbestos free linings/pads take a lot more to bed them in initially, when I was working on the container cranes they had huge disc brakes on the jib and when we had to transfer from the original asbestos type pad which could just be fitted and gently bedded in a couple of times to get the full braking performance the asbestos free ones wouldnt hold a load if done the same way, we had to get them smoking hot more or less before full braking performance was then to be had.

As per usual the new stuff was more expensive and supposedly more environmentally friendly but didnt work as good and wore out a lot quicker, must have been an EU ruling.

This is proof enough that moving away from asbestos does not tend to give us better performance, better health for those who may breath in the asbestos though?

Why have they not banned smoking then?

Can I fit the 7" Ferodo VG95 to the 8" shoes?

As I have mentioned, they can be heated and there was positive movement when I tried bending them.

Would fitting them to the front of the car only be a good idea???

pbergs · Post by **pbergs** » Sat Jun 25, 2016 7:58 am

All good now Roy, Feel slightly stupid that I hadn't checked the age of the tyres before...but then 20 years doesn't seem as long when you are old a certain age!!

African Imp · Post by **African Imp** » Sun Jun 26, 2016 7:51 am

These days no spray painting takes place unless I have covered the car over.

617sqn · Post by **617sqn** » Sun Jun 26, 2016 10:29 am

Easy peasy. That is Stan about to take Princess Lauren off to get married last saturday

Best day ever !!

Andy G.

Stan

By the way, the small image of Stan after my name is also done in the same way and auto-hyperlinks to a magical.eclipse.co.uk page.

617sqn · Post by **617sqn** » Sun Jun 26, 2016 10:57 am

Clicked on image I want, clicked on bottom share option shown to the right of the image, copied and pasted here :

Starts [URL= .......

Perhaps you are linking the whole album (such as it is). Try one individual image ...

Andy G.

Dave ' Linwood ' Lane · Sun Jun 26, 2016 4:21 pm

The grey / white Wingard mirrors have a smoke / dark anti dazzle mirror - black ones are clear - theres also two different sizes of each plus early mirrors have a screw thread mount not the push on type , Small and black was standard for an Imp . yours has been retro fitted

617sqn · Post by **617sqn** » Mon Jun 27, 2016 7:10 am

Excellent Lars. That's explained it better than I did. Screen shots didn't occur to me.

I also pay for the privilege now as the adverts get on my Wick.

Andy G

African Imp · Post by **African Imp** » Mon Jun 27, 2016 3:05 pm

PB test,

It wants me to sign up to some sort of mailing system, I am not about to sign up, the PB site is bad enough, all adverts and crap.

No picture

The Nun · Post by **The Nun** » Mon Jun 27, 2016 3:20 pm

I think the UV probably refers to the tint, its transparency, I have here 70% etched on my car glass.
Although the darkened smoked black glass is supposed to stop the ultraviolet coming through into the car to some degree??

African Imp · Post by **African Imp** » Mon Jun 27, 2016 4:36 pm

Is there another Imp in Cape Town?

It seems there was a Singer that I have not seen?

They sold it in the nineties?

Hi Roy

My pleasure and please let me know if you are happy with the screen before David makes the payment. I am just glad that it has an owner that needs it. That California looks stunning and quite sought after I am sure. Andre who works for me used to have a Blue Singer which they sold some years back when they lived in Thornton. Maybe you have come across it at some time. Someone bought it for his daughter.

African Imp · Post by **African Imp** » Tue Jun 28, 2016 4:41 pm

Nothing has been heard on the Singer Chamois as mentioned above, I may one day find it or some other Imp, at least I have a nice set of Imp motor glass, all excepting the windscreen that is

The glass is dated 22nd May 1964, I wonder was this very nice rear window part of that make, it may be an ex UK made item.

No, the glass is a local product, which does prove that there was quite a lot of South African input into the CKD built Hillman Imps, circa 1964 on.

With no rust, Its near mint!

It seems my next Imp restoration is taking place?

All I need is the car now

African Imp · Post by **African Imp** » Thu Jun 30, 2016 1:03 pm

Seat belt ends?

My seat belts came from New Zealand, they have no free play at all, did they come from a later Imp, as I think I have seen some Imps with the over the shoulder strap finishing closer to the forward side of the rear passenger seat?

African Imp · Post by **African Imp** » Fri Jul 01, 2016 10:42 am

Today being July 1st 2016 is a day to remember as the new tax licence disc has to be displayed.

I will straighten it up later

My thanks once more to forum member Pbergs for making the fake UK licence disc. It carries the plate number of my 1968 Sunbeam Stiletto

Strictly speaking I suppose it is not legal to display the UK one but who knows anyway?

African Imp · Post by **African Imp** » Sat Jul 02, 2016 8:24 am

Rootes genuine key blanks?

Does anyone have them still?

The 1967 Imp Californian still has its original ignition key, rather amazing really?

Its the oval version, can anyone supply me with a good blank or a replacement number RL 841 key?

The original one is quite worn now.

African Imp · Post by **African Imp** » Sat Jul 02, 2016 4:12 pm

Out and about today.

For winter its not bad, check the blue skies

African Imp · Post by **African Imp** » Sun Jul 03, 2016 12:49 pm

The key to this being workable is that the round center bellows must be serviceable, if it is part damaged the Wondafix flexible epoxy will handle the repair.

The epoxy takes care of assembly and is far stronger than the original method of closing the valve off.

That warm air gun was on a low setting.

Dave ' Linwood ' Lane · Sun Jul 03, 2016 1:13 pm

Rather you than me - id bin the valve and be done with it - they are so restrictive they half kill the heater even when they are switch on

African Imp · Post by **African Imp** » Sun Jul 03, 2016 2:44 pm

Dave ' Linwood ' Lane wrote:Rather you than me - id bin the valve and be done with it - they are so restrictive they half kill the heater even when they are switch on

Yes but given that a good heater is required here less than where you are, a cooler cabin is a nicer place to be than in a hot one in the summer?

I have just tested the repaired valve, it works

I have also located the other half of the control arm plate, its a mirror image of the one I had, my policy is never to throw Imp parts away, which is just as well

The missing heater control valve can now be installed, one of those last items before year two clocks up, thats in four days time only

oli · Post by **oli** » Tue Jul 05, 2016 11:20 am

Have you assembled the valve body 90 degrees out Roy?

African Imp · Post by **African Imp** » Tue Jul 05, 2016 12:56 pm

Tommorrows treat is all about post curing

At least that seems to have worked well enough.

African Imp · Post by **African Imp** » Wed Jul 06, 2016 7:35 am

Hillman Imp engine chain tensioner,fitted 009.jpg

New timing chain tensioner rub strips?

My first attempt to produce a new timing chain rub strip was on the rebuild of a very early Mk1 block, I think the number was 1570 or similar?

With no suitable timing chain tensioner in stock I decided to re manufacture an old one.

I had a suitable section of rub strip in the shape of a rule given out by a company who make a fine product that can be used in ships bearings with no lubrication or only water as the lubrication?

I phoned them and asked about it in hot oil? no issues there they told me.

Next I phoned an epoxy supplier about one of their epoxies, yes it was oil proof and also would withstand the kind of heat that an engine was liable to produce.

The engine was built and I ran it on the bench on May 02/03 2013 to mark the Imps first release from the Ryton factory in Scotland.

That engine was test run many times and for many hours, there was no problems I was aware of.

The engine was then stored under a bench and around a year later I inspected the timing chain and its glued on rub strip, it was still bonded but with a screw driver I could break the glue line.

There ended that fix and that test

A visit to a technical chemist that manufactures epoxies had him do some tests of his own, certain glues he had were tested by him, they broke on the glue line when the spring steel blade was flexed, the issue was probably the type of rub strip I want to use?

The picture shows the first trial and rebuilt timing chain rub strip as fitted to the early Mk1 block.

imp-aus-ter · Post by **imp-aus-ter** » Wed Jul 06, 2016 2:49 pm

I run 32 psi in the rears on the Tassie Devil and 22 psi in the front... I spoke to a tyre supplier and a couple of tyre shops and they all said that running 15psi (which my imp books say) on the front with modern tyres, they are likely to roll on the rim and get sidewall wear/feathering on the tyres... I started with 25 psi in the front, then 24, then 23 and so on. I found 22 was the best compromise for my car, not too hard and not too soft and I have done 4000 miles on them so far with no apparent wear anywhere on the tread. I have nitrogen in them and they stick like the proverbial poop to a blanket... wet or dry

Radial tyres are so different from the X plies imps came out with.... they needed lower pressures to allow for some flexibility... radials are flexible anyway, even at higher pressures... I wouldn't like to see you run lower than 20 psi

oli · Post by **oli** » Wed Jul 06, 2016 11:24 pm

Good news on the timing chain tensioner strip Roy.

African Imp · Post by **African Imp** » Thu Jul 07, 2016 10:37 am

Two years ago the car was returned to me, it looked worn out, I was going to find out just how worn out over the next few months

There was an upside though, the car was almost complete, that included the series 180 Imp Sport cylinder head and twin Stromberg (damaged) carburetors, Sport exhaust manifolds, Sport type distributor, ten row alloy oil cooler and its connection pipes.

These items may not sound like much but being in South Africa they are very rare and are not to be found at all.

The unseen damage included:

Lower crank pulley, that was off some other car engine, the original spigot had been welded to another grooved pulley,which was cast iron, both front transaxle mounts had been welded back onto the front transaxle case, the rear engine support cross beam had 15mm of body filler on it, one Stromberg carburetor lower bowl had been seam welded and around the brass center jet body, the radiator water pump had been dismantled and assembled wrongly, the list just went on and on.

Such as the original Laycock clutch had been replaced with a multi spring Borg and Beck type, the thrust bearing was riding on the clutch release face all the time, the brakes were another story, etc etc,

In spite of all this I was still a happy man to get this car back, two years on I still am

African Imp · Post by **African Imp** » Fri Jul 08, 2016 6:37 am

Californian comes back home 021.jpg

The date was July 5th 2014 which was a Saturday afternoon, the time by now will after 4pm.

The four Johnston brothers had seen the nice 1971 blue Imp of InfraZA and were on their way back to Bo Kaap in Cape Town where they live.

For me it was time to reverse the Caliornian into the garage and try and assess what I had just bought?

No monies had exchanged hands but in my mind I was very much the buyer, mental comes to mind now.

The first view of the engine was a reminder of what I had looked at the day before in the Johnstons own garage, a real mess and then some.

My center picture shows the engine as it is today, the battery tray was reinstated, I was able to use the original side rails too, I spent one week just doing that area.
The oil cooler is back in the correct (for me) position, that had been fitted lower down but the cooler body itself was fine.
I am now using some very nice NGK spark plug caps, try your motor cycle dealers for them?

They are the resistor type and water proof, the part numbers are LB1OF 8358 (black) or TB05EM 8084 (blue) they are more expensive and I fitted them to the InfraZA Imp Deluxe 1971 car.

I have a spare set of the black ones as a back up

African Imp · Post by **African Imp** » Mon Jul 11, 2016 7:23 am

Small things Improve the image?

Yesterday and while looking for a genuine Lucas made distributor cap, which I will fit on a Lucas sport distributor that I am expecting soon, I found two that suited the bill.

One was marked with the Lucas letters inside the cap, the other was marked with the word LUCAS on the outside of the cap.

I cleaned both up and gave them a few coats of clear lacquer, the one with the name Lucas has since been fitted to the Imp engine.

With bead blasting the outer black coating came free, to mimic the originals, do I now have to spray it black or did they also get produced in a dark brown I wonder?

The Singer Chamois I had was sold with a brown cap was that made by Echlin? an after market supplier we have out here.

The white wire, it has a black tracer was very hard to find, the original had deteriorated to such an extent that I had to splice a new end in but at least its a Lucas wire.

I had a spare Imp wire loom, it was taken from that

Note:

The orange and green paints on the engine block are original, so is the engine block to the car, does anyone know what those colour codes mean?

Some days later and a drive around our local area showed me that the genuine Lucas distributor cap works well, as did the none genuine one but its nice to be original?

African Imp · Post by **African Imp** » Tue Jul 12, 2016 6:32 am

Small things improve the breed?

I think I am back to the side fine line tapes, the alloy side trims are still aa possibility but I do not want to drill mount clip fasteners in the car.

The picture was supplied by Pbergs, its his car

This far the double line white fine line tape has not been found here, could I do it with two applications of single line tape, I doubt I can ?

3M look to make a lot of this kind of tape, so far I have not found it in a thin double white line, they sell in 60 meter rolls also

African Imp · Post by **African Imp** » Thu Jul 14, 2016 11:44 am

For us we are just past mid winter, the daylight is becoming 1.5 min's longer every day

Rain (we need lots more) is predicted for tomorrow, so a drive around my local area today made sense.

This far and I can say that the 1967 Imp Californian restoration is just about finished, I mentioned other stuff still on the list of jobs to do but they can be fitted in at a later date.

Driving today I am pleased to find that the lights and trafficators all work. The LED fitted inside the car for the interior light is a gem, I can leave the doors open all day and without melting the plastic around the bulb and without taking amps out of the battery.

Having the oil and amp meters was worth the effort of fitting them, the water temperature gauge too, the only issue on the dash is that the water temperature and petrol gauges read low, it will be the voltage stabiliser I think?

To change that is more of a job than I feel like doing right now, re fitting that drive cable end to the speedo was never one of my favorite tasks.

Of course seeing the re built speedomter that reads in kilometers working puts a smile to my face, it is the cars original and now at least I know how fast and far I have driven

Success comes in many ways?

African Imp · Post by **African Imp** » Fri Jul 15, 2016 7:48 am

"End of part one. There will now be a short intermission."

Part two started yesterday?

Check the restored engine picture which is posted a few items above, the Lucas Sports coil looks good but its not quite correct.
I had it in the bead blasting cabinet, the alloy coating came off so did the red paint.

I have now re fitted the coil that was on the car when it returned.

The mount bracket was re plated and instead of an electro galvanized finish I have used a military spec cadmium finish

The screw in cap should be red too, the original paint has worn off

I see that new Lucas red stick on lables can now be bought, its tempting at GBP1.99 but for now I will leave the coils original sticker in place.

The Lucas factory in Liverpool may well have made the coil?

IMG_2649.jpg

African Imp · Post by **African Imp** » Fri Jul 15, 2016 11:01 am

Lucas was the original equipment and I have never had too much issue with it, earths can fail which triggers off other faults?

Keeping my cars dry and in a closed garage will help I am sure.

I have a brand new Aldon LU-142A solid state electronic dizzy kit here, I doubt I shall ever use it?

http://www.lucasmemories.co.uk/site/the ... ingham.htm check this link for a history on Lucas

African Imp · Post by **African Imp** » Sat Jul 16, 2016 8:20 am

The rain has been on and off for a few days now, it has become colder also, the fan heater is on in my office right now, it may warm up a bit later when (if) the sunshine appears?

This picture was taken three days back.

African Imp · Post by **African Imp** » Sun Jul 17, 2016 7:30 am

Can we test a petrol tank sender unit when its out of the tank?

I posted info on the subject yesterday but this far there has been no response.

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=30470

The picture shows the gauge reading towards the full mark, so the gauge is working fine.

African Imp · Post by **African Imp** » Sun Jul 17, 2016 8:49 am

You may want to read this ? http://moparfins.com/Repairs/Fuel_Gauge ... Repair.htm

My spare tank sender unit laying on the cars original one was ( I thought) sending a perfect signal to the gauge, If I moved the float lever up or down the gauge showed higher or lower readings.

Why this is when its not in the tank I have not yet fully understood

The fault was simply that there was only 9 litres of petrol in the tank

Read down the entries please. viewtopic.php?f=9&t=30470

The picture with the sender unit the correct way up proved that the sender was working.

African Imp · Post by **African Imp** » Sun Jul 17, 2016 3:13 pm

I have just parked the 1967 Imp Californian for the night, is it my imagination or did it start a whole lot better? for sure it went to idle very quickly and moving the car was easier?

A full tank means a full line of petrol

A rebuilt AC petrol pump will be installed tomorrow, with new AC YD repair kit supplied some time back by Bob of the Imp Clubs spares department, it will be as good as new.

The kit contains the new valves as well as the pump diaphragm, plus the top cap seal ring.

I am fortunate that the spare pumps that I have (some do) have the handy primer pump lever

African Imp · Post by **African Imp** » Tue Jul 19, 2016 6:48 am

InfraZA told me to try again with the petrol gauge sender unit, he was correct, will he be a second time?

From the man himself

Your Temperature sender might also be correct, but why not calibrate it with a tin of water heated by you blowtorch, with a thermometer suspended in it and the Imp sensor suspended in it? Then you'll know 100% whether the sender or the instrument is at fault, or whether there's a fault at all.....

Merely extend the sensor wire and you can perform the experiment at the comfort and convenience of your workbench. Remember to take the head off your coolant by opening the tap at the bottom of the radiator and drain into a broad plastic basin. You needn't lose a drop of the precious liquid - I know, because I've done it when I had to remove the radiator for a "come-back" soldering repair.

Then you still have to sort the self-park function of your wipers. That's a nice rainy-day, clinical workbench job that will give much satisfaction when remedied. You can be a Scouse MacGyver.

Have fun.

imp-aus-ter · Post by **imp-aus-ter** » Wed Jul 20, 2016 3:32 am

Roy, make sure you have a good earth from the motor to the frame.... I actually run an earth wire directly from the block to the battery.... Check that your main earth strap where the gearbox meets the rear suspension crossmember hasn't been left off/loose/dirty. And, check your battery earth cable is making good contact at terminal and where it earths to the body.

Bad earths are the cause of most electrical gremlins... as are bad connections on the power side.

I confirm my temp gage (after market) with a laser thermometer.... handy gadgets to have

Just out of interest, because the Tassie devil doesn't have a standard temp gage, I got a nice 3 gage set with temp/oil pressure/volt with classic round dials for about $Au89 and it is fantastic.... I am aware that you are trying to keep your beautiful car extremely original... so was prolly a waste of time letting you know that

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Street-Serie ... SwPhdVJmXB

African Imp · Post by **African Imp** » Wed Jul 20, 2016 7:40 am

Whats hiding in your petrol pump?

This is over the past two days.

I ask, as on inspection mine was full of dirt, why and how it got there I have no idea?

When the car came back I cleaned the area where the petrol runs inside the top of the pump, it was filthy big time but I do not remember stripping the entire pump down?

I would suggest to forum members you do just that, inspect the rubber pump membrane and what may be hiding under that membrane.

I left the pump in parts soaking over night with Castrols water soluble cleaner, I still had to clean and apply more three times before the pump was clean, the dirt in there was a big surprise

it seems it can get in but not out?

The area where the petrol runs was spotless, that is at least protected by a GUD brand 'in line' petrol filter just before the pump

imp-aus-ter · Post by **imp-aus-ter** » Wed Jul 20, 2016 4:46 pm

When I drove the Tassie devil back from Tassie... at grafton, the filter before the fuel pump was full of rust... and the pump had tiny orange powder in it... but none made it thru the filter after the pump ..... I recommend running 2 filters, one before and one after.... I don't know about in SA, but here, the petrol is rubbish...

One thing... you have to be careful not to strip the threads in the center of the cover plate

I had to put a stud (cut an all thread bolt) in the housing and a nut on top..... pain in the butt

African Imp · Post by **African Imp** » Thu Jul 21, 2016 6:54 am

The re built odometer was connected last Easter, I see I have done some 80 Kms since then, just 50 Miles but at least I can check the distances and speeds made now