Sunbeam Stiletto with a Kawasaki Engine.

Dogsbody · Post by **Dogsbody** » Fri Dec 14, 2012 6:50 pm

Hi, I have been rebuilding my Stiletto for about 3 years now, but the project has hit a few snags with vinyl roof supply and mainly the weather as I don't have a garage any more. Funds were also becoming a problem as the car really needs a lot spent on to get it back to the condition it was when I previously owned it.

Well last week after chatting to some people at Zcars I have decided to put a bike engine in and a full roll cage and go an have some track day fun.
Just finish off the welding and paint the whole car the original claret, roof as well.

Rip the rest of the mouse eaten interior out and a pair of bucket seats with full harnesses.

Engine has been bought (GPZ900R) and I have a chain drive to diff conversion sourced.

Has anyone else gone the bike power route?
Disk conversion for the front brakes is a must.

I'm going to mid mount the engine for better balance.

Any thoughts or things to look out for?

imp.sport · Post by **imp.sport** » Sat Dec 15, 2012 10:06 am

Dogsbody wrote: Has anyone else gone the bike power route?
Disk conversion for the front brakes is a must.

I'm going to mid mount the engine for better balance.

Any thoughts or things to look out for?

Plenty have attempted it and sold them as an unfinished project. Only a few have finished the job though.
Most on here have only a small interest in cutting an Imp up to take another engine so looking here may get you what your after.

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topi ... +Imp&mid=0

Here is a video of one that got finished.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d3kqSAT1j_k

If you do this remember to wear something like this

Otherwise before you know it you will need a pair of these.

Dogsbody · Post by **Dogsbody** » Sun Dec 16, 2012 7:57 am

I shall heed all the advice, and won't start cutting anything till I'm sure.
I'm intending to make up a separate frame with the diff mounted and engine which will bolt into the car, using some of the original engine / gear box mounts.

I do know how rare the Stiletto's are now, 74 when I last looked at "how many left" But me an this car have "History" going back about 25 years.
I have used it for 12 car rallying in the past and fancy the pair of use having some track fun this time around.

There was a chap at Keevil a few weeks back with a very nice imp out on track with Motorsport Events.
All properly put together with competition parts. YYU 610H
http://www.mgphoto.co.uk/mp_client/pict ... _1254t.jpg

bazzateer · Post by **bazzateer** » Sun Dec 16, 2012 8:26 am

Put the Kwakker in the Allegro, much better idea!

bks974c · Post by **bks974c** » Sun Dec 16, 2012 8:46 am

Baz

Looks like an old photo when the car was looking much better.

You can understand why he would keep the Stiletto but why would he have kept the Allegro

Scott

Dogsbody · Post by **Dogsbody** » Sun Dec 16, 2012 11:15 pm

Allegro was the wife's. worst car ever made.

I have a company who will add the original gear box output spline / flanges to the diff for me.
So No cutting and I will be using original drive shafts and suspension.

That pictures was 24 years ago. My daily driver was a 2.1 Pinto powered MK2 Escort in those days.

In the back ground here.

I want the engine mid mounted as it will improve the balance of the car.
Rear engined tend to be tricky to catch when they go sideways.

Colin Valentine · Post by **Colin Valentine** » Thu Feb 14, 2013 6:34 pm

The idea of replacing the Donuts with CV joints is intriguing.
Can you explain how you will take up the "plunge" as the suspension moves ?
You need something to prevent the driveshafts from locking up.

Also are you putting a car type flywheel & Clutch on the Kawasaki engine so it can be fitted "in-line" to mount to the IMP Gearbox ?
I got a bit lost with the engine position ideas.
If the engine is to be inside the car then the gearbox needs to be turned around.
There were some mid-engined Formula 4 cars with IMP engines in the 60's.
These needed an upside down Imp gearbox to reverse the diff otherwise it would be 4 reverse and 1 forward gear.
Also check which way the Kawasaki engine turns.
I don't think you can run a gearbox rotating the wrong way.
Someone will doubtless know more than me on this.

Conventionally cars run clockwise looking at the front engine pulley.
However, Honda car engines mostly(?) rotate anticlockwise.
I don't know about Bike engines............
Look under the bonnet of, say a FWD Ford Fiesta and the engine is on the left with the gearbox on the right.
With a Honda this is reversed due to the anticlockwise engine rotation.
With a bike engine look which side the chain goes to the rear wheel.
If Chris V sees this he may be able to explain for bikes..............

Interesting stuff.
Colin V

Colin Valentine · Post by **Colin Valentine** » Thu Feb 14, 2013 9:14 pm

The sliding spline on the Hardy Spicer is the key bit, to take up the "plunge" from the suspension movement.
Minis and the ADO range had some drive shaft issues.
Which I attribute largely to mixing a CV joint with the NON CV Joint.
This puts a lot of stress on the system on the drive shaft.
Hence the Triumph 2000 series had a U/J at each end of the driveshaft with a splined shaft in between to take up the plunge.
This was reliable, and good, as long as it was kept lubricated to prevent the "drooping" drive shaft from locking up under power.
Look at some old rally photos for examples.
Colin V

Dogsbody · Post by **Dogsbody** » Thu Feb 14, 2013 10:08 pm

i's not intending to have much suspension travel, my Racing Puma has 25mm

Yes its hard on the road, but the handling on the track is sensational

It is one of the best handling FWD drive cars ever built

As a track car the Stiletto can have the same or less

Dogsbody · Post by **Dogsbody** » Mon Feb 18, 2013 8:50 am

A good few days work on the Stiletto.
Front suspension, steering etc all dropped off, stripped down and cleaned up.
Painted and all joints greased.
Started making the disk calliper adaptor plates too.

The plate which holds the rear suspension joint and the steering rack was missing 4 of the 8 bolts

and the rack clamp bolt was missing too.
All now tapped out to metric for ease. (Sorry purists)

All gaiters were intact

Also found a seller on Ebay selling the ball joint rubbers.

The oil cooler got the industrial dishwasher treatment too.

Dogsbody · Post by **Dogsbody** » Wed Mar 13, 2013 2:00 pm

Disk brake upgrade is now finished (thanks Colin for the information to help me make them.)

Chain drive dif is in the shed, sprocket sized for around 120 mph.

A large box of bits from Malcolm has also been delivered, so the I have everything I think I need to really get going.

Except a angle grinder , as mine went up in flames and smoke earlier

While cutting away the horn / internal fan heater box for the radiator.

Dogsbody · Post by **Dogsbody** » Fri Mar 15, 2013 8:09 am

I have a new more powerful one on order from Machine Mart.
Got some welding to do too

lewisparrot · Post by **lewisparrot** » Tue Apr 02, 2013 7:44 pm

THIS IS THE CHAIN DRIVE ARRANGEMENT FROM THE ZZR ENGINE TO THE REAR JACK SHAFT

imp 004.jpg

lewisparrot · Post by **lewisparrot** » Fri Apr 05, 2013 8:18 pm

NO IT DIDDNT SELL BUT THE INCREDIBLE THING WAS THAT 11,000 LOOKED AT THE AUCTION OVER 400 WATCHING AND 5 BIDS UP TO £5,600 AND NOT ONE PERSON ASKED TO COME AND HAVE A LOOK AT THE IMP. i HAVE DECIDED TO TAKE IT UP TO PERTH AND PUT IT ON SALE THERE YOU NEVER KNOW REGARDS LEWIS

Dogsbody · Post by **Dogsbody** » Fri Apr 05, 2013 8:32 pm

For the amount of work you have done and the fun it must be to drive, you should keep it Lewis.
As you know this is the second time round of ownership of this car, so I have no intention of ever selling my car again.

Dogsbody · Post by **Dogsbody** » Sat Apr 20, 2013 11:02 pm

Decided today was a good day to spend a bit of time welding on the Stiletto. Got the MIG welder all set up and found there was only about 12" of wire left. So made up all the plates etc I need to weld on instead, and scrapped a load of under seal off.
Nice big hole to fit a radiator now the horn / internal heater air intake box is gone.

Does anyone know where I can get the nuts and the rubbers grommet for the wiper drive splines.
One nuts is corroded on and I think I will have to cut it off. Both rubber grommets are long gone

Dogsbody · Post by **Dogsbody** » Sun Jun 02, 2013 6:46 pm

Been pretty quiet on the Stiletto project for a while, but I picked up the seats I will be using this morning.

A pair of Recaro's which will give some lateral support without being silly to get in and out of.

Most of the front end welding is done now, next its o/s sill and the bottom of the door.

Dogsbody · Post by **Dogsbody** » Thu Oct 17, 2013 3:42 pm

Not touched it much this year due to other commitments, but I have put the refurbished suspension, rack etc back on today and drilled the stud holes out slightly on the wheels I picked up cheap for it.
Back on its wheels for the first time in over 2 years.

Structurally its pretty much there now, so its being moved to a friends barn / workshop where it can be worked on a bit easier.

Dogsbody · Post by **Dogsbody** » Wed Oct 30, 2013 6:51 pm

19James · Post by **19James** » Thu Oct 31, 2013 12:26 am

Looks good mate, good choice on cellulose, we've used it for about 10 years now and it's so easy to do yourself, plus you can put plenty on and then flat/cut it back quite alot to get the finish you want.
Looks good though

Cheers, James

ImpManiac · Post by **ImpManiac** » Thu Oct 31, 2013 11:09 am

As James said, the car is looking good.

Unless I am mistaken, it should be a fairly mad car when it's done!

Good effort!

IM

Dogsbody · Post by **Dogsbody** » Mon Nov 04, 2013 7:00 pm

ImpManiac wrote:^^ Sounds good! Have you any photos?

Do you want this thread about your car to be moved to the Reader's Cars sub-forum?

IM

I'm not a club member so I don't think I have access to the Readers cars bit ?

Spent all day down the workshop today.
Made up a separate chassis out of box section which bolts in and takes the diff and engine.
So at a much later date IF anyone wanted to change the car back to original , it would be a unbolt job no cutting or weld grinding required.

Quite pleased how well it turned out.
Friend is doing well with the shell, most of welding done, nearly ready for primer.
5 litres of grey filler primer arrived today, lots required for the roof and its quite pitted.
Glass bonnet arrives tomorrow , 5 days after I ordered it

Popped over to Castle Combe today and bought the bits required to make a roll cage at Merlin Motorsport.
Down the workshop next Monday now, but there's a few bits to fabricate at work this week.

Dogsbody · Post by **Dogsbody** » Mon Nov 11, 2013 8:05 pm

All the welding is now done

Car is now solid and rust proofed and primed with a rust inhibitor primer .
So Its engine trial fit time.
Well I know know how NOT to fit a Kawasaki GPZ900R engine into a Sunbeam Stiletto

Much to high, so I have now taken 100mm off the height, raised the diff by 60m and tilted the engine backwards slightly.
Looks like a bit of the inner floor skin has to go in the void under the back seat as I want the engine slug low.

Radiator mounts all welded in up front and rad has been fitted and removed again.

I'm working for the next 9 days solid now and then away for a few days, so no more updates for a couple of weeks.

ImpManiac · Post by **ImpManiac** » Mon Nov 11, 2013 10:58 pm

The shell is looking really good, Graham.

The finer points of your engine installation will come to you, given time.

IM

Dogsbody · Post by **Dogsbody** » Thu Nov 28, 2013 5:19 pm

The engine has now been bolted on the frame with the diff all lined up.
Chain was fitted and clears the engine casing

Engine now put away as its not needed till its fitted into the car.

Frame has been put into the car and fits OK

I won't weld anything to the shell so it can be put back if many many years in the future someone wanted to convert the car back to original.

Dogsbody · Post by **Dogsbody** » Tue Dec 10, 2013 7:28 pm

Dogsbody · Post by **Dogsbody** » Wed Dec 11, 2013 4:42 pm

A few issues with the drive shaft knuckles binding due to the angle they are at.

I'm going to grind hollows on the knuckles. But if that does not allow enough movement I can move the whole frame forward slightly.
Problem then is the engine and exhaust are VERY close to the back of my very nice Recaro seats.

Heat proof wrapped manifold will be a must

The frame is pretty sturdy, 40mm thick walled box section.

Dogsbody · Post by **Dogsbody** » Mon Dec 16, 2013 10:33 pm

Usually a few Imps there, and I'm usually out on track

Dogsbody · Post by **Dogsbody** » Tue Dec 17, 2013 5:17 pm

Both drive shafts loosely fitted, the wheels go round smoothly with no binding.

Dogsbody · Post by **Dogsbody** » Wed Jan 08, 2014 1:28 pm

My only real experience is setting up Escorts to handle, so the Stiletto will be a venture into the unknown.
But from them I know if I have the front soft and the back hard, the car will tend to compress the front corner under load and try and lift a back wheel off the floor, unloading. Likely to spin it up if I have any power on.
Through geometry, tyres, weight and splitter I want the front level and a tendency to over steer.
I want the back sinking down hard with both wheels in contact with the floor.

Dogsbody · Post by **Dogsbody** » Wed Jan 15, 2014 6:01 pm

Quite a productive day again.
Removed all the sound deadening bitumen panels and all the foam which was stuck to the roof. (Head lining)
Welded the angle iron across the top of what was the back seat back and welded plates in to cover up some of the unnecessary holes in the rear fire wall.
I "Think" all the structural repair welding is done

Car is now externally in primer .

The engine is now fitted but only on the front mounts as some of the floor needs removing as the engine now sits so low. to
Need to get my reciprocating air saw on the job.

Thats it for a week or so.

Dogsbody · Post by **Dogsbody** » Wed Jan 22, 2014 6:10 pm

Popped into the workshop today and was surprised to see the car in colour.
My mate had been busy, cutting away for the engine to sit in the void under the rear seat and giving the car a couple of preliminary coats and Ford Rosso Red.

I need to remove a little bit more under the engine and make a hole for the oil drain.
Then add some angle / box section to regain the strength lost by cutting away.
It's Getting there though

Dogsbody · Post by **Dogsbody** » Mon Jan 27, 2014 7:51 pm

Spent a day on the Stiletto today, Engine now clear of the floor and fixings line up ok.

We beefed up the rear suspension mounts with some heavy gauge angle iron, to replace any strength lost but cutting the floor.

Also cut the bonnet and fitted the RS Turbo vents.
Need to fit some ducting to direct the air at somepoint.

Window winder un-seized and the door locking mechanism refitted.
Window now goes up and down and door will latch closed.

Next is weld up under the engine to make a bit neater and splash some paint.
Then fit the oil cooler and cooling pipes to the engine.
I "think" there is plenty of room for the pipes and gear linkage with whats cut away already.

Dogsbody · Post by **Dogsbody** » Fri Feb 07, 2014 7:45 pm

Dogsbody · Post by **Dogsbody** » Fri Feb 14, 2014 6:21 pm

Under front and rear bonnets now painted and ready for assembly.
Engine painted in heat proof satin black and water and the hard to reach oil cooler hose fitted.
Mounted the oil cooler and connected up the gear linkage and gear lever .

Starting to look good.

Dogsbody · Post by **Dogsbody** » Wed Feb 26, 2014 7:41 am

Dogsbody · Post by **Dogsbody** » Wed Mar 05, 2014 3:58 pm

Exhaust all fitted, not fitted heat proof wrap and I need to check for leaks when the engine runs for the first time.

Dogsbody · Post by **Dogsbody** » Mon Mar 10, 2014 7:15 pm

Gear linkage fitted today, pedals and started on the brake and clutch plumbing.
I am fitting a brake bias valve in the circuit and hydraulic hand brake, so I have moved the brake light switch to under the front bonnet.
So if I turn the rear brakes off, the lights still work.
All pipes are being run internally.

Post by **Lars Hagermark** » Mon Mar 10, 2014 9:00 pm

Dogsbody wrote:I have moved the brake light switch to under the front bonnet.
So if I turn the rear brakes off, the lights still work.

Good thinking and - may I say - very considerate too.

Dogsbody · Post by **Dogsbody** » Mon Mar 17, 2014 5:08 pm

Disk brakes fitted, home made the brackets with the info from Colin Valentine. Thanks

Radiator fitted

New shocks arrived a few weeks ago, but I hadn't opened the box till today.
Very Very impressed

Dogsbody · Post by **Dogsbody** » Fri Mar 21, 2014 5:25 pm

Gear linkage all sorted and brake bias valve fitted.

Adjustable front suspension fitted and disc brakes all plumbed up.

Just battery tray and petrol tank to fit in.

Front back on the floor, starting on the back end now.

Post by **Lars Hagermark** » Fri Mar 21, 2014 6:36 pm

First run coming closer.

Keep us posted.

ImpManiac · Post by **ImpManiac** » Thu Mar 27, 2014 10:32 pm

Looking good!

IM

Dogsbody · Post by **Dogsbody** » Fri Mar 28, 2014 5:01 pm

Front wheels fitted with new Yokohamma tyres.

Rear brake hoses fitted, just need to run copper pipes from the hoses to a tee and then along to the bias valve.
I have decided to run the copper pipe through steel tube as it crosses under the chain. Just in case

32 mm Wheel spacers fitted on the rear. Wheels really fill the arches like the front, very happy with the look.

New Hand brake cable guides welded in place and the hand brake connected up and adjusted.

A good days work.

Brake pipes next week and make a start on the wiring.
I picked up a 6 way fuse board from Merlin Motorsport this morning.

Dogsbody · Post by **Dogsbody** » Thu Apr 03, 2014 7:36 pm

The under side is now finished, its back on its wheels with brand new tyres on.
It saw day light for the first time in a few months as I needed to get the doors fully open to get the roll cage in easily.
Roll cage bolting in and wiring tomorrow

Its getting there now ....

Post by **Lars Hagermark** » Mon Apr 07, 2014 12:18 am

Hello Graham,

Tank union.jpg

The other one, holding the olive and fuel line from below, looks like a male AN4 (7/16") union for ¼" cunifer hydraulic pipes but don't take my word for it. Haven't measured thread pitch or taper.

Dogsbody · Post by **Dogsbody** » Mon Apr 07, 2014 3:00 pm

Thats what I'm after 7/16 unf, I may take the petrol tank over to Merlin Motorsport on Thursday morning to get the right fitting. I need a 90 deg elbow with a hose fitting.
I have a coil of 1/4 copper pipe with a thick plastic coating to run through or under the car to the engine.

Post by **Lars Hagermark** » Mon Apr 07, 2014 4:56 pm

Or try this:

RD2432.jpg

Bought mine from Rally Design (http://www.rallydesign.co.uk). Part # RD2432, £2.80 (+ P&P).

Dogsbody · Post by **Dogsbody** » Thu Apr 10, 2014 5:57 pm

Rear Roll cage fitted

I braced right too the back for strength.

Plastic coated copper fuel pipe run through the car. Kill switch and fuel / petrol pump switch plate fitted.

fuel pipe to connect up and the throttle cable next.

Dogsbody · Post by **Dogsbody** » Sat Apr 19, 2014 6:54 am

Well its not going to make the Spring Action day

I have just run out of time and another large job has taken priority over it.

The car's loom is refitted and power cut off switch wired up.
Engine has been filled with oil and turns over on the key =D> But that has shown up a crack in a oil cooler union

Fuel pump is fitted and wired up as is the cooling fan.

(suns so bright the black looks red lol)
Bike loom has been stripped of all non required cables (lights etc) and is now about 8 wires.

Throttle cable is now fitted and adjusted properly.

About 4 or 5 hours and it will be running

But that's it for a few weeks.
I did say I would wire a water mill, and the builder is now in a position for me to put the cables in.

Still looking good for the Classic & Retro Action Day in June at Castle Combe.
I can go out on track in the Pre-1970's group, might cause a stir