Clan JO JASON - New Mirror indicators

[Lotus-e-Clan]

FOR DOM

1 Door cards ON.

2 Door Cards and door end ( Latch)

3 LATCH

4 INNER Door release handle REMOVED

5 INNER DOOR HANDLE fitting

6 OUTER door card REMOVED.

7 DOOR BEAM at door latch end

8 DOOR BEAM at door HINGE end

9 WINDOW mech - UP position

10 WINDOW mech DOWN

11 INNER door card with batterns for end trims

12 INNER door card with end trims fitted

13 OUTER door card with handle trim and ASHTRAY

14 OUTER DOOR CARD REVERSE side (showing trim clips etc)

[ylee coyote]

Oh my your door beam is a bit rusty! Mine must have been replaced at some time ...
On picture 8 there is a rod going to a bell crank with a Black metal pin attached ,I am assuming that is the internal lock ?
Mine is missing ....

[Lotus-e-Clan]

Oh my your door beam is a bit rusty! Mine must have been replaced at some time ...
On picture 8 there is a rod going to a bell crank with a Black metal pin attached ,I am assuming that is the internal lock ?
Mine is missing ....

Yes that short black bell crank rod is the internal door lock latch. If your beams have the weld-on boss the system would be easy to reproduce.

This is the first time I've seen the inside of the door of this Clan tbh, and was pleasantly surprised. I expected worse as the bodywork of the car is largely unrestored apart from a respray in the late nineties by the PO.

Pictures are as requested for DOM who hasn't seen the inside of Clan doors before - he's rebuilding one atm.

I got this Clan in 2000 and have never had the door cards off. The doors haven never been restored from new so not 3 bad for a 45yo Clan.

It's not quite as bad as the photos represent. There is the usual small area of rot along the bottom edge of the beam close to the hinge post where water drips down the front of the window frame into the door. I had the same on my first Clan when that was only 7 years old. - an easy repair. All other areas are solid. The hinge post and hinges are solid but quite rusty and the hinge bushes have gone AWOL.

The main brown stuff on the main body of the beam is the dried out glue that stuck the OE full-width polythene sheet to the door beam. The polythene sheet was meant to protect the inner door card hardboard from a soaking and to direct water towards the door drain holes and away from door pocket.

[ylee coyote]

Cheers ! ,My drivers door beam is in remarkably good condition with no rust at all ,I suspect it was replaced at some time as the passenger door beam is almost exactly like yours
As my door key is not attached to the lock in any way ,I fitted central locking with the actuator acting vertically on the locking mechanism on the door latch, It would be nice to have a belt and braces ....

[Lotus-e-Clan]

Cheers ! ,My drivers door beam is in remarkably good condition with no rust at all ,I suspect it was replaced at some time as the passenger door beam is almost exactly like yours
As my door key is not attached to the lock in any way ,I fitted central locking with the actuator acting vertically on the locking mechanism on the door latch, It would be nice to have a belt and braces ....

I've used one of those £5 solenoids to open the front boot with a remote fob on both Smart roadster and Clan and they are very reliable. I've been thinking about door poppers too ...ie doors actually pop open with a remote ...not just unlock.

But I haven't thought through the consequences yet ..and its low on the list of things to do...but one day it's likely I'll join you/copy you with the electric door thing.

Another thought ..I do like the idea of sliding (mechanical) windows rather than a window winder or electric window motors. I've seen a Davrian with windows operated by a vertical slider on the inner door card...but when I thought about how to apply it to the Clan, the door beam would get in the way. Now the door card is off the drivers door, I'll sit and stare at the naked door beam for a while to see if I can work out how to do it.

Maybe the slider would have to form an arc to get the window travel from top to bottom? Would save a shed load of weight ..especially if I used polycarb for the windows.

[pimpdriver]

Peter
I am in the process of sorting out electric windows on my Irish Clan using the cable driven sliding system off a rover 75. I have managed to modify one to fit on the passenger side and got it to slide up and down nicely unpowered, and got it to work powered on the bench. I will be fitting them properly in the next couple of weeks and i'll take some piccies for you.

Eric

[Lotus-e-Clan]

Peter
I am in the process of sorting out electric windows on my Irish Clan using the cable driven sliding system off a rover 75. I have managed to modify one to fit on the passenger side and got it to slide up and down nicely unpowered, and got it to work powered on the bench. I will be fitting them properly in the next couple of weeks and i'll take some piccies for you.

Eric

Hello Eric - hope all is well with you. Yes piccies please. Can be sure it'll be a good solution if you are doing it!

It'll be an ideal time to mod the window lifts when I do the hinge bushes on the driver's door.

Now THAT'll be another issue for me ..where to buy nylon hinge bushes?

Maybe I should try to source bronze bushes if possible? Anyone got ideas and opinions on that?

[617sqn]

Could you buy a stick of nylon online and have someone machine you new ones ? Just a thought. I've bought short lengths of stuff from ebay sellers a few times over the years. Beats having to buy full lengths

Andy G

[Lotus-e-Clan]

Could you buy a stick of nylon online and have someone machine you new ones ? Just a thought. I've bought short lengths of stuff from ebay sellers a few times over the years. Beats having to buy full lengths

Andy G

Good idea! I'd need 4 bushes for each door so machining nylon should be fairly quick and easy...and keeps it original.

From what I remember (the last time I replaced my 1st Clan's hinge bushes was way back in 1980), they have a 'Top hat' conformation. So the nylon rod/stick would need to be fairly large to have enough material to form the 'brim'. IIRC the 'brim' diameter is about 5/8". Do you know if there is a range of diameters available?

[Hugh L]

I believe Robin Human has made a batch of pins and bushes fairly recently.

[The Nun]

You can get nylon bar in varying grades at 16 to 20mm and right up to 300mm dia x 100 to 600mm long, you can even get it in different colours, a fetching shade of red even

[617sqn]

Where's Bobbycham when you need him ?

Andy G

[Bobbycham]

Generally , Devizes or Chippenham, or IN trouble.

Bob

[617sqn]

Fire your lathe up, Bob ! Looks like an opportunity here

Andy G

[Lotus-e-Clan]

Fire your lathe up, Bob ! Looks like an opportunity here

Andy G

Yeah! Clan Hinge kits!

I'd definitely buy a set of 8 Nylon top hat bushes and 4 stainless hinge pins.

I guess you should be able to sell a bit of stock to Clan Owners Club too?

I believe Robin Human has made a batch of pins and bushes fairly recently.

Hugh:
I haven't got Robin Human's contact details to see if he has any already made kits mind you.

[bks974c]

Robin was advertising them on Facebook, he had them made with brass or bronze bushes.

here you go

Scott

[Lotus-e-Clan]

Robin was advertising them on Facebook, he had them made with brass or bronze bushes.

here you go

Scott

Thanks Scott. Problem is, I can't access FB to see the post. No account.

I'd have to find another way of making contact.

[bks974c]

His user name here is tzarrobin, search members and email him.

Scott

[Lotus-e-Clan]

His user name here is tzarrobin, search members and email him.

Scott

Email sent ..cheers.

[Lotus-e-Clan]

No response from Robin as yet, so if anyone wants to make a set or two hinge kits for the the Clan, then I'm game.

[tzarrobin]

Lotus e Clan I have sent you a PM.

[Lotus-e-Clan]

Thanks Robin.

Have Pm'd with reply...will buy.

[Lotus-e-Clan]

Door hinges replaced with Robin's SS pins / oil-lite bushes and door driver's beam refurbished.

Good points:
Extra sheet metal reinforcement into the door beams has restored the side impact protection - probably better than new.... albeit with an additional weight penalty.
Door shuts nicely without having to manually lift the door onto it's latch.

Bad point:
The old dropped hinges allowed the door to drop when fully opened thus clearing the underside of the 4 post lift where the Clan is stored.
With new hinges the door window frame now continues to rise and hits the underside of the lift which means I have to raise the lifts slightly before I can fully open the Clan's doors!

No new pictures but here's an old 2010 Anglesey Track night photo directly dragged and dropped from a laptop folder to test the new forum feature:

6027030856_410437658f_o.jpg

It works!

[Lotus-e-Clan]

Got the Clan on the ramps to swap out the 360 lbin uprated rear springs for the std Clan's std 260 lbin springs - but failed to account for the MUCH longer damper travel required for the longer std Clan springs!

I forgot that I'd bought bespoke length Protech dampers to match the shorter 360 lbin TR2/6 springs....there was no way the short dampers would work with the std spring!

On a positive note, the pool of gearbox oil that appeared on the garage floor after temporarily fitting the longer std rear spring to one side on full droop, served to remind me that std Clan springs with long dampers on the rear cause quite LARGE changes in drive shaft angle during corners and over yumps.

The good thing about the uprated shorter 360 springs is that the drive shafts are restricted to a more horizontal position for most of the time which good for longer doughnut and u/j life and probably means less oil loss from the tranny!

I also forgot that the extended flat-floor panels I'd fitted under the rear suspension arms will only accommodate the shorter suspension travel.

So the short 360's stay on the rear for the time-being ...

I'll just have to lower my tyre pressures to make them feel a bit more comfortable ...

[617sqn]

Could you have shorter, softer springs and dampers fitted ? Just asking.... I don't know if it's possible even.

Andy G

[Lotus-e-Clan]

Could you have shorter, softer springs and dampers fitted ? Just asking.... I don't know if it's possible even.

Andy G

Yes you could, but they would bottom-out on the bump-stops giving a sudden change in attitude ..which means you'd lose it mid-corner on full roll if you hit a bump especially.

The short stiff springs don't bottom out so no surprises - but they can still throw you out a bit on very bumpy roads at speed!

[Lotus-e-Clan]

OK ..not all about Canems ..this first tuning post is about settings for twin DHLA 40s for either an 875 Sport or a 1040 race spec engine.

I've recently been asked which twin 40 DHLA jet settings I use for a Sport cammed Imp engine, so I thought it would be a good idea to post jetting and ignition map settings for both Sport and Competition R Series cams where everyone can easily find it ...

Twin 40 DHLA with a Sport Cam Sport head, 875cc

• Chokes 30 mm
  Emulsion tube No 10
  Mains 112 or 115
  Airs 155 or 165
  Idle 45 or 50 IF you have an emission type DHLA
  No 1 Idle holder
  Pump jets 33

For a hotter engine ...based upon Pete Richard's race Clan set-up (998 BVH R22) on twin WEBER 40's...., here is my variation on his for the equivalent twin 40 DHLA's (1040 BVH GB72)

Twin 40 DHLA spec for R series Cam (eg R20, R21, R22 or a even a GB72)

• Chokes 30 mm
  Emulsion tube No 6
  Mains 115
  Airs 165
  Idle 45 or 50 IF you have an emission type DHLA
  No 1 Idle holder
  Pump jets 33

I'm currently running an 875 Sport on twin DHLAs using the first jetting list above (for a Sport cam) using 112 mains and 155 Airs but you might try the 115 mains with 165 AIR on a 998 sport. Either way you want a No 10 emulsion for a Sport cam. I have tried both No 6 and No 7 emulsions on a sport cam and they give the wrong fuel distribution for the cam.

I run my big valve 1040 with a GB72 race cam on the second set of settings - you can see that the only really significant difference is the emulsion tube (No6).

Notes on choke size.
The above setting are inextricably linked to 30 mm chokes. If you use 32 mm chokes you will have less bottom-end and less mid-range torque. Also the jets will have to be bigger (eg 118 to 120 mains) to match the bigger choke size. Moreover, whilst 998 or 1040 race cammed engines will, without doubt, suddenly fly above 5000 rpm on 32 mm chokes, an 875 cc Sport definitely won't, and it won't work well at all below 3500 rpm either. ie stick to 30 mm chokes for driveability throughout the useful rev range if using either set-up.
Notes on air temperatures:
On both the 875 Sport and 1040 GB72 set-ups I run my DHLA's using a fully enclosed DIY fibreglass plenum air box with an induction air intake tube terminated with a big cone filter on the end - pointed towards the back of the engine cover behind a grill and above the exhaust. In 15C ambient air temps this gives typical plenum air box temperatures of 30C (light throttle cruise) 20C (wide Open throttle) and 40C to 50C at idle in traffic. If you use open K&N's, or a COLD AIR positioned ram intake pipe, or live in Norway, you might have to adjust the jets a tad (enrich them).

[Lotus-e-Clan]

This second tuning post IS about Canems mapped ignition .. the first map is for an 875 Sport, the second set is for a 1040 competition spec engine.

For the load settings on the y axis, the maps below uses a Throttle Position Sensor (%TPS) attached to the forward DHLA on cylinders No 3&4. The TPS plus a specific mounting bracket for DHLAs are available to buy online from Eurocarb for about £50 last time I looked.

Each set shows the map table and a 3D view of that table.

Imp Sport Map. (875 Sport head Sport Cam, Twin DHLA 40s)
...

Canem_ImpSport_v6.JPG

Canem_ImpSport_v6_3d.JPG

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On the above Sport map you will notice that at 0% TPS (closed throttle) I have set the ignition curve to EXACTLY the same values as 100% TPS (Wide Open throttle) . The logic here is two-fold. The Sport cam likes 6 deg BTDC at 1000 rpm ... ie at idle ... so that is easily set in the equivalent 0% TPS cell at 1000 rpm
Other than idle, the only other use for the 0% TPS row is to set the ignition for the over-run at higher rpm when you back off the throttle. Now then, with this map, on the over-run, you get a LOVELY burble through the exhaust because the ignition it too retarded (in the 0% TPS cells) to burn all of the fuel before it escapes into the exhaust manifold (header) where it then gets burnt-off for comedy effect . The effect you get here is for fun only ! If you don't want an over run burble then you should add more advance ... ie set the 0% TPS values similar to 12% TPS row of cells.
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Competition Map (1040cc BVH GB72 (or R series cam), Twin DHLA 40s)
...

refinedmap.jpg

Map20.jpg

..
...
On the competition map you will notice a retarded (14 deg BTDC) valley at 1500 rpm for the Closed throttle position (0% TPS). This is to let the engine itself find and settle into the optimum advance for idle. This retardation valley effectively sets the idle rpm between 1200 and 1500 rpm ..ie 1350 rpm which is where the GB72 cammed engine likes to be at tickover. You can play with the valley setting at 0% TPS to set the idle you want. In any case, the result will be a rock-steady idle!

If you want an exhaust burble on the over run (as I have done to the Sport map) then try setting the 0% TPS cells (above 2500 rpm ie above the retardation valley) to the same cell settings as 100 % TPS,

Hope that makes sense!

[OldImp]

I notice that you mention the emissions version of the DHLA. I had great difficulty getting these carbs to run until I found an obscure article explaining how they work. Apparently they self tune by returning excess fuel back via the idle jet and this means you need to fit an idle jet around twice as big as normal. I fitted a 95 and the carbs were transformed. These carbs are great on a road engine but of no use if you want high power.
Bob

[Lotus-e-Clan]

I notice that you mention the emissions version of the DHLA. I had great difficulty getting these carbs to run until I found an obscure article explaining how they work. Apparently they self tune by returning excess fuel back via the idle jet and this means you need to fit an idle jet around twice as big as normal. I fitted a 95 and the carbs were transformed. These carbs are great on a road engine but of no use if you want high power.
Bob

Hello Bob

Yeah, glad I haven't got a pair of those!

Mind you, I think there might be more than one type of emission DHLA (eg some were spec'd as OE for manufactures like Alpha Romero and Lotus). Some have 5 rather than the usual 3 progression holes and/or have very large air bleeds built into idle circuit gallery that need to be brass sleeved to reduce the air mix and therefore reduce the necessity to go overly large on idle jet size if tuning for a non-OE application.

The antithesis of emission type DHLA's exist also. My SE Lotus 912 engine has Lotus-specific DHLA's that have an additional 'power jet' to provide extra fueling on full power. These are sometimes called tri-jet carbs because they effectively have 3 main jets per carb!

[Lotus-e-Clan]

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As much as I've liked the look and functionality of the Clan's small lightweight overtaking mirror attached to the 'A' post, the quality of mirror back is just not good enough!
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95cln_front_lights_dips_aux_2019_01 (3)_LI.jpg

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I've replaced them several times because the mirror backing has failed after a short period of winter use.
Ok, they were cheap so what can I expect? (pictures below)

clan_6_2019_11.JPG

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Weird..this one turned RED!!

clan_5_2019_11.JPG

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The latest ones are motorbike fairing LED indicator mirrors.

clan_2_2019_11.JPG

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With a neat under glass flashing arrow!

clan_3_2019_11.JPG

clan_0_2019_11.JPG

clan_1_2019_11.JPG

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They are somewhat larger than the ones that failed and I've got to admit I don't like the look of them on the Clan as much as I liked the small rectangular carbon effect jobbies. But hey ho! ... at least they are a lot safer....and a lot more useful!

[Lotus-e-Clan]

Just testing that I can still post here.

I haven't posted anything since 2019 pre-pandemic, not because I'd succumbed to CoVID19, rather because it appeared that, as a new non-member, I was blocked from posting, so I lost the ability to contribute or comment here.

Anyhow, I've refreshed the 1040 which will go back into the Clan as soon as the weather improves... Meanwhile I have a new oil to water (Evans) exchanger off a Ranger Rover Sport to try out on the 875 sport engine before I chance-it with the 1040. I will complete that experiment before the end of February, hoping to get the 1040 reinstalled during March.

So expect more content on here soonest.

[bks974c]

Good to see you back.

Scott

[Lotus-e-Clan]

Thanks Scott.
Can't wait to get stuck-in again.

[moose]

Welcome back.

[Dave ' Linwood ' Lane]

YAY , Your back , missed your posts and knowledge