As mentioned in my earlier post, I bought a CNC Router last tear to play with, & I'm really impressed what it can do.
I originally bought it to make aluminium flanges for the starter motors I convert for the Imp. I have knocked up quite a few already , a few different types and applications but learnt a lot, made a lot of mistakes, aluminium dust, and some good ones on the way.
Since I bought it I have made other things as well , A spacer plate for a turbo bike engine, a pair of front wing brackets for a single seater and even done some engraving on it.
As I have a few engines to build, and 2 with my own thin paper head gasket seals, I thought I could see if you could use it to cut gaskets. At first I thought about putting lots of gasket paper between two pieces of wood and routing them out. Looking into it (and a lot of Googling), I discovered 'drag knives'. This is a Knife blade that is fitted into a rotating holder with the point, just behind the center. When the holder is dragged along the paper. it swivels like a castor, cutting in the process. The first ones I found were large Stanley knife blades in a home made holder, which seemed quite crude. I then discovered 'Vinyl Cutters' which use a similar principle but are much smaller an neater and you can buy the (Chinese copy) holder a blades quite cheaply. So off to Amazon,and next day the holder and 36 special blades arrived through my door for £14.99. The blades are really small. about 2mm diameter and have different cutting angles for different thicknesses of material.
Now I need a holder to mount it to the router. This year I treated my self to a 3d printer, so I searched the web for one I could print. I couldn't find any I liked, so I designed my own, and 8 hours later it was printed out. I also bought a large self healing cutting mat and stuck it down to a piece of mdf as a cutting bed.
The result
It fitted the router perfectly and after quite a bit of faffing about I managed to cut some gaskets. The hardware just worked, the software was a different matter. I'm a CAD designer by trade, so drawing up the parts was easy in the software I know, but the Router software fought me most of the way. This is completely different to the 3D printing software, that just works amazingly well.
Anyway - head gaskets started arriving
It is cut at an angle because the Router travel is 410mm, but the gasket is 420mm long, but positioned like this it fits in a 410mm box.
I managed to cut 18 off in a couple of hours, at thicknesses of 0.15mm, 0.20mm & 0.25mm. I make these because I use wills rings but no grooves in head or block. I have a spacer plate that lowers the compression for the Turbo of 1.5mm thick which retains the wills rings. The thin paper gaskets are to seal the alloy plate to the head and block, and the different thickness control the amount of squash on the wills rings. I have cut a few of these by hand and they take ages.
I know thought, why not make all the others - so I did
The Sump & rocker box gasket were fun. As mentioned earlier the travel of the router is 410 mm, but the sump gasket is 450mm long and even rotating it on the bed it still wouldn't fit in a 410 box. I managed to do it in two goes. First I had to by a bigger cutting mat and stick it to another piece of mdf. I then cut majority of the gaskets on the first go, move the bed 100mm to the left, reset the start point 300mm to the right., and cut the 50mm bit of gasket remaining. With a bit of tweaking I managed to get the rocker box gasket inside the sump gasket, and then it was just fill up the spare internal space with the others.
The only one I can't do yet is the exhaust/inlet gasket - but I do have a plan for that.
Cheers
Eric
Pimp2 - the rebuild starts
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pimpdriver
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Re: Pimp2 - the rebuild starts
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Eric Morrey
Rawlson Imp Turbo
'Irish' Clan
Rover 75 waft-mobile
Hillclimb Clan - Resting
Reliant Scimitar GTE se5a - Resting
Rawlson Imp Turbo
'Irish' Clan
Rover 75 waft-mobile
Hillclimb Clan - Resting
Reliant Scimitar GTE se5a - Resting
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pimpdriver
- Posts: 135
- Joined: Wed Apr 28, 2004 10:03 am
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Re: Pimp2 - the rebuild starts
Update time again
Well, the season hasn’t got off to a good start has it, with all events being stopped until July, and the first event in my championship could be the August Bank Holiday. I’ll probably just do the odd event near the end of the year to test things out.
The lack of events has meant that I seem to have not really pushed to get the car ready for this season and it is still in bits, but I have been doing stuff.
New Charge cooler
I have had trouble with inlet temperatures, not major, but higher than I would like. At the end of some of my runs, especially on hot days, I have seen inlet temps of 70 degrees C. The turbo is working hard at 18-19 PSI boost and the turbo is probably near the edge of its working envelope and heating the air up a bit too much. I did have (as mentioned in an earlier post) a bit of damage to the inlet blades of the turbo, which won’t have helped, and I have gone to a slightly bigger compressor which should work more efficiently. This should help the inlet temps. Í have a water cooled charge cooler which I have never really been happy with. I have changed everything around this charge cooler to try and improve the situation, without making much difference. I have put in bigger water radiators, a more powerful water pump & extra water into the system without much benefit. It is time to try a different approach. I could go for an Air to Air intercooler, but I still think this won’t work as there is nowhere to put it to get adequate air to it, whilst keeping with the restrictions of my Modified Production Class as I am not allowed any extra holes or vents.
I did a lot of googling, and eventually discovered Laminova intercooler cores. These are different to the normal charge cooler radiators. Normal ones are effectively a normal intercooler core fitted inside a water jacket. The laminova ones are a large finned tube with the air flowing around the outside and water flows inside. These are normally quite expensive , but I managed to get some at reasonable price from the USA. They are 390mm long with a 30mm dia tube with fins around the outside taking them to 40mm outside diameter. These are fitted inside a 40mm bore tube with slots in to allow the air to enter the tube and flow around he cooler (between the fins). The surface area of the fins is huge as they are only 0.2mm thick and spaced 0.3mm apart.
These cores are best fitted on the plenum chamber before the throttle bodies, so I had to make a whole new plenum chamber. All the examples I found using these cores had welded aluminium plenums. But I can’t weld alloy, so I decided to make my own Carbon Fibre version.
I’m a CAD Designer for my day job, so I modeled it all up in 3d to make it all fit. It was quite a job to get it all in without changing too much. I actually bought three cores but struggled to get 3 in so only used two. They are supposed to be good enough for 150hp each, so two should be fine.
Once I had worked out how to fit it all in, how to make it. My previous Plenum I moulded out of Carbon, so I could make the mounting to the T.B.s the same, A carbon flange and 4 individual Trumpets glued into the side of the plenum. The two Laminova cores needed to fit inside two 40mm tubes, so a couple of carbon tubes 40mm bore with 1mm wall were bought. These were stuck together with two smaller 6mm bore tubes fitted either side to house M6 studding to hold the end tanks on. This lot was re-enforced with extra Carbon and the slots were machined in using my router. The main body and the inlet section was made using the ‘Lost Foam’ method. You make the shape you require out of rigid insulation foam, cover it in carbon and epoxy, and when it all set you melt out the foam with thinners. All the sections were glued together and all joints re-enforced and then a few more layer of carbon added. This whole plenum has to take 20 PSI so it can’t be too flimsy.
I'll add some more photo's tomorrow of the construction.
Well, the season hasn’t got off to a good start has it, with all events being stopped until July, and the first event in my championship could be the August Bank Holiday. I’ll probably just do the odd event near the end of the year to test things out.
The lack of events has meant that I seem to have not really pushed to get the car ready for this season and it is still in bits, but I have been doing stuff.
New Charge cooler
I have had trouble with inlet temperatures, not major, but higher than I would like. At the end of some of my runs, especially on hot days, I have seen inlet temps of 70 degrees C. The turbo is working hard at 18-19 PSI boost and the turbo is probably near the edge of its working envelope and heating the air up a bit too much. I did have (as mentioned in an earlier post) a bit of damage to the inlet blades of the turbo, which won’t have helped, and I have gone to a slightly bigger compressor which should work more efficiently. This should help the inlet temps. Í have a water cooled charge cooler which I have never really been happy with. I have changed everything around this charge cooler to try and improve the situation, without making much difference. I have put in bigger water radiators, a more powerful water pump & extra water into the system without much benefit. It is time to try a different approach. I could go for an Air to Air intercooler, but I still think this won’t work as there is nowhere to put it to get adequate air to it, whilst keeping with the restrictions of my Modified Production Class as I am not allowed any extra holes or vents.
I did a lot of googling, and eventually discovered Laminova intercooler cores. These are different to the normal charge cooler radiators. Normal ones are effectively a normal intercooler core fitted inside a water jacket. The laminova ones are a large finned tube with the air flowing around the outside and water flows inside. These are normally quite expensive , but I managed to get some at reasonable price from the USA. They are 390mm long with a 30mm dia tube with fins around the outside taking them to 40mm outside diameter. These are fitted inside a 40mm bore tube with slots in to allow the air to enter the tube and flow around he cooler (between the fins). The surface area of the fins is huge as they are only 0.2mm thick and spaced 0.3mm apart.
These cores are best fitted on the plenum chamber before the throttle bodies, so I had to make a whole new plenum chamber. All the examples I found using these cores had welded aluminium plenums. But I can’t weld alloy, so I decided to make my own Carbon Fibre version.
I’m a CAD Designer for my day job, so I modeled it all up in 3d to make it all fit. It was quite a job to get it all in without changing too much. I actually bought three cores but struggled to get 3 in so only used two. They are supposed to be good enough for 150hp each, so two should be fine.
Once I had worked out how to fit it all in, how to make it. My previous Plenum I moulded out of Carbon, so I could make the mounting to the T.B.s the same, A carbon flange and 4 individual Trumpets glued into the side of the plenum. The two Laminova cores needed to fit inside two 40mm tubes, so a couple of carbon tubes 40mm bore with 1mm wall were bought. These were stuck together with two smaller 6mm bore tubes fitted either side to house M6 studding to hold the end tanks on. This lot was re-enforced with extra Carbon and the slots were machined in using my router. The main body and the inlet section was made using the ‘Lost Foam’ method. You make the shape you require out of rigid insulation foam, cover it in carbon and epoxy, and when it all set you melt out the foam with thinners. All the sections were glued together and all joints re-enforced and then a few more layer of carbon added. This whole plenum has to take 20 PSI so it can’t be too flimsy.
I'll add some more photo's tomorrow of the construction.
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Eric Morrey
Rawlson Imp Turbo
'Irish' Clan
Rover 75 waft-mobile
Hillclimb Clan - Resting
Reliant Scimitar GTE se5a - Resting
Rawlson Imp Turbo
'Irish' Clan
Rover 75 waft-mobile
Hillclimb Clan - Resting
Reliant Scimitar GTE se5a - Resting
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Turboimp
- Posts: 184
- Joined: Tue Aug 09, 2005 9:55 pm
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- Car Model: Sunbeam Imp Sport Turbocharged in 1983 + Clan
- Location: South Wales & The West
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Re: Pimp2 - the rebuild starts
A wonderful design there , better than professional ... I always found on my Imp in normal or turbo form that inlet air temperature was generally around 20 C above ambient .. I used two ford escort turbo intercoolers in series , they are about the size of a house brick so not that good , but side by side they were the size of an Imp radiator and with a fan did the job . I'm currently fitting a smaller Mitsubishi water cooled turbocharger and no intercooler so lower boost with about 130 bhp in mind .
What you need above in your plenum chamber is to run refrigerant through those finned cores , just like a car refrigeration system , just use a small compressor from a Citroen C1 which is about the size of a can of beans . and a condenser outside in the airflow somewhere , all very light weight alloy , they are only 1/2" thick maybe under the floor. There will be a serious drop in temperature with the inlet air as the refrigerant can be below 0C going into the heat exchanger. An American firm called evolve did this to a highly modified Volvo C30 2.5 5 cylinder engine in 2007 , they were getting over 600 bhp from it and the evaporator was actually inside the manifold .
The picture shows another early attempt of mine at a water to air intercooler , it is actually an oil cooler from a bus but had ample capacity for an Imp engine's needs . yes that's a pressure switch which turned on the water injection when boost came up
See you again at Prescott sometime
What you need above in your plenum chamber is to run refrigerant through those finned cores , just like a car refrigeration system , just use a small compressor from a Citroen C1 which is about the size of a can of beans . and a condenser outside in the airflow somewhere , all very light weight alloy , they are only 1/2" thick maybe under the floor. There will be a serious drop in temperature with the inlet air as the refrigerant can be below 0C going into the heat exchanger. An American firm called evolve did this to a highly modified Volvo C30 2.5 5 cylinder engine in 2007 , they were getting over 600 bhp from it and the evaporator was actually inside the manifold .
The picture shows another early attempt of mine at a water to air intercooler , it is actually an oil cooler from a bus but had ample capacity for an Imp engine's needs . yes that's a pressure switch which turned on the water injection when boost came up
See you again at Prescott sometime
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1967 Imp Sport turbo 328000 Imp Miles , in the same car
1972 Clan Crusader 232000 clan Miles in the same car
must be some kind of record !
1972 Clan Crusader 232000 clan Miles in the same car
must be some kind of record !
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pimpdriver
- Posts: 135
- Joined: Wed Apr 28, 2004 10:03 am
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Re: Pimp2 - the rebuild starts
This is the old Charge Cooler and plenum on the engine. I think one of its major problems was the size of the water pipes. The alloy pipes welded to the cooler were 12mm od and 8mm inside diameter. The pump had 19mm inlet and outlet, the header tank the same and the rads were 32mm inlet/outlet. I suspect that just not enough water was able to flow to remove the heat.
Constructing the Plenum
I had already made the trumpets using a mould I made out of alloy which Carbon Fibre Sock was epoxied around. This is quite simple but time consuming, it takes about an hour to lay each one up, leave two days, remove from mould, clean mould and do the next one. The flange was made by clamping about 16 layers of carbon cloth fully wetted out between two pieces of old kitchen top and clamped by loads of bolts around the outside. I used Peel Ply on the outside of both sides. This is a cloth that doesn't stick, and when you peel it off afterwards gives a great matt rough texture, ideal for gluing and laying up extra layers. The shape was then cut out on the cnc router.
The tubes for the Laminova Cores were them glued together, with some smaller tubes in between as mentioned before. A few tows of carbon were used to fill in the gaps and then some carbon tape and fiberglass tape was added to strengthen it. The green end pieces were made on my 3d printer to hold everything in position. When I removed the end pieces the little spigots that held the small pieces i position snapped off inside.
This lot was the wrapped in a couple if layers of carbon to stiffen it all up, and then I needed to gut the slots for the air to flow through. Because of the restricted space, between the throttle bodies and the inner wheel arch, I had to put the pair of tubes at 45 degrees. The slots through had to be at a different angle to work, so again I modeled up some end supports and printed them out on the 3d printer to hold it all at the correct angle.. The brilliant thing with the 3d printing is you can do anything, so I incorporated in some visual aids to help me position the cutter - worked a treat. I used m6 studding that went through the 6mm tubes to clamp the end caps on with
I must admit I really pleased, and relieved, when the slots were cut perfectly. In fact so pleased I forgot to take a photo at the time. I have managed to dig a later one out, which I have cropped to hide future parts.
You can't see from this angle but there are identical slots underneath 180 degrees around. I did think about offsetting them to help packaging, but that would mean the air would travel different distances around the core which could reduce the effectiveness.
I was really pleased at this stage, but again it takes time. It takes a surprising amount of time laying the carbon up and with the different stages took over two weeks to get this far, only an hour of so every other evening.
Next time i'll go through the other parts of the plenum.
Cheers
Eric
Constructing the Plenum
I had already made the trumpets using a mould I made out of alloy which Carbon Fibre Sock was epoxied around. This is quite simple but time consuming, it takes about an hour to lay each one up, leave two days, remove from mould, clean mould and do the next one. The flange was made by clamping about 16 layers of carbon cloth fully wetted out between two pieces of old kitchen top and clamped by loads of bolts around the outside. I used Peel Ply on the outside of both sides. This is a cloth that doesn't stick, and when you peel it off afterwards gives a great matt rough texture, ideal for gluing and laying up extra layers. The shape was then cut out on the cnc router.
The tubes for the Laminova Cores were them glued together, with some smaller tubes in between as mentioned before. A few tows of carbon were used to fill in the gaps and then some carbon tape and fiberglass tape was added to strengthen it. The green end pieces were made on my 3d printer to hold everything in position. When I removed the end pieces the little spigots that held the small pieces i position snapped off inside.
This lot was the wrapped in a couple if layers of carbon to stiffen it all up, and then I needed to gut the slots for the air to flow through. Because of the restricted space, between the throttle bodies and the inner wheel arch, I had to put the pair of tubes at 45 degrees. The slots through had to be at a different angle to work, so again I modeled up some end supports and printed them out on the 3d printer to hold it all at the correct angle.. The brilliant thing with the 3d printing is you can do anything, so I incorporated in some visual aids to help me position the cutter - worked a treat. I used m6 studding that went through the 6mm tubes to clamp the end caps on with
I must admit I really pleased, and relieved, when the slots were cut perfectly. In fact so pleased I forgot to take a photo at the time. I have managed to dig a later one out, which I have cropped to hide future parts.
You can't see from this angle but there are identical slots underneath 180 degrees around. I did think about offsetting them to help packaging, but that would mean the air would travel different distances around the core which could reduce the effectiveness.
I was really pleased at this stage, but again it takes time. It takes a surprising amount of time laying the carbon up and with the different stages took over two weeks to get this far, only an hour of so every other evening.
Next time i'll go through the other parts of the plenum.
Cheers
Eric
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Eric Morrey
Rawlson Imp Turbo
'Irish' Clan
Rover 75 waft-mobile
Hillclimb Clan - Resting
Reliant Scimitar GTE se5a - Resting
Rawlson Imp Turbo
'Irish' Clan
Rover 75 waft-mobile
Hillclimb Clan - Resting
Reliant Scimitar GTE se5a - Resting
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pimpdriver
- Posts: 135
- Joined: Wed Apr 28, 2004 10:03 am
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Re: Pimp2 - the rebuild starts
Making the Plenum body.
This was done using grey foam (or blue or pink). The foam came in 25mm thk sheets, so three layers were glued together using blobs of 5min epoxy to make the 75mm thick block. cut to rough shape with a hacksaw blade and a large knife. I then marked out where the trumpets were to go. These had been already glued to a flange plate I made earlier, which held them in the correct position. I didn't plan to use this plate, it was supposed to be used to attach the plenum to the throttle bodies, but after making it, i felt it wasn't strong enough. I then made another for the throttle bodies about twice as thick and used the thin one here. I'm glad I did because it helped a lot holding the trumpets in position. I cut a recess for the plate to fit in and 4 more recesses for the trumpet bell-mouths to fit into. This left the back face of the flange level with the foam. I made some 3d printed bushes to fit in the outer pair of trumpets, and a corresponding large flanged nut recessed into the other side to use a couple of pieces of studding to clamp it all in place. The block was then sanded to shape, radiusing everywhere I could. The joint to the twin tube piece I had made earlier was sorted by simply sticking a piece of sandpaper to the tubes with double sided tape and sanding to a good fit. The sandpaper was then removed and the twin tubes were wrapped in brown parcel tape and stuck in position with double sided tape. The parcel tape works really well as a release tape to stop bits sticking together.
Mould finished, lets start the gooey bit . The whole thing was covered in three layers of carbon cloth and epoxy resin, doing a side at a time and overlapping around the edges. it was a bit tricky around the trumpets, but a few snips with scissors and it all went quite well. A final layer of peel ply to soak up any excessive resin, and leave for 48 hours.
When set, I peeled off the peel ply and was quite impressed with the finish, not perfect but i'm happy (easily pleased?). I then proceeded to dig out the foam using a chisel and scalpel. I removed 95% this way and then used acetone to remove the final bits.
This was done using grey foam (or blue or pink). The foam came in 25mm thk sheets, so three layers were glued together using blobs of 5min epoxy to make the 75mm thick block. cut to rough shape with a hacksaw blade and a large knife. I then marked out where the trumpets were to go. These had been already glued to a flange plate I made earlier, which held them in the correct position. I didn't plan to use this plate, it was supposed to be used to attach the plenum to the throttle bodies, but after making it, i felt it wasn't strong enough. I then made another for the throttle bodies about twice as thick and used the thin one here. I'm glad I did because it helped a lot holding the trumpets in position. I cut a recess for the plate to fit in and 4 more recesses for the trumpet bell-mouths to fit into. This left the back face of the flange level with the foam. I made some 3d printed bushes to fit in the outer pair of trumpets, and a corresponding large flanged nut recessed into the other side to use a couple of pieces of studding to clamp it all in place. The block was then sanded to shape, radiusing everywhere I could. The joint to the twin tube piece I had made earlier was sorted by simply sticking a piece of sandpaper to the tubes with double sided tape and sanding to a good fit. The sandpaper was then removed and the twin tubes were wrapped in brown parcel tape and stuck in position with double sided tape. The parcel tape works really well as a release tape to stop bits sticking together.
Mould finished, lets start the gooey bit . The whole thing was covered in three layers of carbon cloth and epoxy resin, doing a side at a time and overlapping around the edges. it was a bit tricky around the trumpets, but a few snips with scissors and it all went quite well. A final layer of peel ply to soak up any excessive resin, and leave for 48 hours.
When set, I peeled off the peel ply and was quite impressed with the finish, not perfect but i'm happy (easily pleased?). I then proceeded to dig out the foam using a chisel and scalpel. I removed 95% this way and then used acetone to remove the final bits.
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Eric Morrey
Rawlson Imp Turbo
'Irish' Clan
Rover 75 waft-mobile
Hillclimb Clan - Resting
Reliant Scimitar GTE se5a - Resting
Rawlson Imp Turbo
'Irish' Clan
Rover 75 waft-mobile
Hillclimb Clan - Resting
Reliant Scimitar GTE se5a - Resting
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pimpdriver
- Posts: 135
- Joined: Wed Apr 28, 2004 10:03 am
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Re: Pimp2 - the rebuild starts
Evening All
Time for an update, sorry about stopping halfway through. I decided to get the engine ready for a sprint on the 18th of August as a test to see if everything works. My championship had been cancelled so I decided to just do a couple of events this year hopefully getting the car ready for next year. I have been working from home since March and thing got a bit busy.
Finishing the Plenum
The top section of the plenum was made using similar methods to the lower section, and the three finished pieces looked like this before final joining.
The tubes were then glued to the lower section using araldite epoxy.
And then the upper section was glued on in similar fashion
Extra layers of carbon were then added over the joints, and then a couple more layers were added over the rest of the plenum. This has to withstand 20 PSI of boost, maybe 30 PSI if there is a problem, so I wasn't making it too flimsy. I also wrapped some tows of carbon around the tube ends to stop any weak points in this area.
After all that had set for a couple of days, I carefully sanded the ends of the tubes to give a good flat surface. In the photo below you can see the slots that take the air from one side to the other and the small tubes which are for the M6 studding to hold the end features on.
This is the final plenum in its finished condition complete with the end tanks and cores fitted. More to follow on those.
Cheers
Eric
Time for an update, sorry about stopping halfway through. I decided to get the engine ready for a sprint on the 18th of August as a test to see if everything works. My championship had been cancelled so I decided to just do a couple of events this year hopefully getting the car ready for next year. I have been working from home since March and thing got a bit busy.
Finishing the Plenum
The top section of the plenum was made using similar methods to the lower section, and the three finished pieces looked like this before final joining.
The tubes were then glued to the lower section using araldite epoxy.
And then the upper section was glued on in similar fashion
Extra layers of carbon were then added over the joints, and then a couple more layers were added over the rest of the plenum. This has to withstand 20 PSI of boost, maybe 30 PSI if there is a problem, so I wasn't making it too flimsy. I also wrapped some tows of carbon around the tube ends to stop any weak points in this area.
After all that had set for a couple of days, I carefully sanded the ends of the tubes to give a good flat surface. In the photo below you can see the slots that take the air from one side to the other and the small tubes which are for the M6 studding to hold the end features on.
This is the final plenum in its finished condition complete with the end tanks and cores fitted. More to follow on those.
Cheers
Eric
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Eric Morrey
Rawlson Imp Turbo
'Irish' Clan
Rover 75 waft-mobile
Hillclimb Clan - Resting
Reliant Scimitar GTE se5a - Resting
Rawlson Imp Turbo
'Irish' Clan
Rover 75 waft-mobile
Hillclimb Clan - Resting
Reliant Scimitar GTE se5a - Resting
-
pimpdriver
- Posts: 135
- Joined: Wed Apr 28, 2004 10:03 am
- Club Member: Yes
- Car Model: Irish Clan, Luff Hillclimb Clan.
- Location: Leicester
- Been thanked: 8 times
Re: Pimp2 - the rebuild starts
Charge cooler end tanks
These were where a lot of thought and design changes happened, long before I even started to make them. The Laminova cores have a ring of cooling channels around the outside, and a center bore. I wanted to pass the cooling water through just the outer channels, but also I wanted to be able to pass different water through the central bore. I also wanted to join the water from the two core into one outlet each end to simplify the plumbing. The end tanks also have to seal the ends of the cores, both to the atmosphere and to the internal air pressure.
I eventually came up wit a design that did everything that I wanted, but was very difficult to make. I was going to machine them out of aluminium blocks with my CNC Router, but the tanks would take ages to machine. I then had the idea of 3d printing them. I have been playing around with my 3d printer since I bought early this year, mainly for making jigs and brackets, but haven't actually made anything for the car yet. One problem with the plastic used for the printing is the as it is melted to print, it is not that good at high temps. Anything on the normal cooling system for a car has to be able to withstand 120 degrees C , and the plastic is not really capable of this. The chargecooler water though, shouldn't see any more than 60 degrees (hopefully), and the PETG material seemed to be fine at those temps.
I ended up with a 3/8" alloy base plate, that was machined on the CNC Router, and the tanks themselves 3d printed.
This is the outlet tank fitted on the crank pulley end of the engine. The alloy base plate has two rings machined in it, these press on the o-rings on the end of the cores to make the o-ring seal between the tube and the core. The bright green tank is the 3d printed item, which bolts to the base plate. There is also a piece of 19mm tube that is epoxied into the tank to take the water pipe.
The two threaded tubes are also glued into the tank, and these project into the center bore of the core and are sealed with an o-ring in the groove. they are threaded to suit some quick release connectors. These provide a separate water system down the center of the cores. The angle bracket is a 'belt and braces' support for the outlet tube. I wasn't sure how strong the 3D print would be, so I added this to support it and to also to enable a higher clamping force with the bolts.
The other end was basically a mirror image but I added a sensor block so I could measure the water temps. The main difference on this end, is on the centre water system. 3d printed an end plate with a transfer passage in so the water could travel down one core and back along the other one.
This shows the whole assembly together, with the cores and the M6 studding that clamps the two to the plenum. The two pipes on the left are for the Chargecooler water, and the two quick release connectors are for the extra system.
This is the lot all assembled to the plenum, and even shows the air inlet temp sensor fitted near the throttle body holes.
Cheers
Eric
These were where a lot of thought and design changes happened, long before I even started to make them. The Laminova cores have a ring of cooling channels around the outside, and a center bore. I wanted to pass the cooling water through just the outer channels, but also I wanted to be able to pass different water through the central bore. I also wanted to join the water from the two core into one outlet each end to simplify the plumbing. The end tanks also have to seal the ends of the cores, both to the atmosphere and to the internal air pressure.
I eventually came up wit a design that did everything that I wanted, but was very difficult to make. I was going to machine them out of aluminium blocks with my CNC Router, but the tanks would take ages to machine. I then had the idea of 3d printing them. I have been playing around with my 3d printer since I bought early this year, mainly for making jigs and brackets, but haven't actually made anything for the car yet. One problem with the plastic used for the printing is the as it is melted to print, it is not that good at high temps. Anything on the normal cooling system for a car has to be able to withstand 120 degrees C , and the plastic is not really capable of this. The chargecooler water though, shouldn't see any more than 60 degrees (hopefully), and the PETG material seemed to be fine at those temps.
I ended up with a 3/8" alloy base plate, that was machined on the CNC Router, and the tanks themselves 3d printed.
This is the outlet tank fitted on the crank pulley end of the engine. The alloy base plate has two rings machined in it, these press on the o-rings on the end of the cores to make the o-ring seal between the tube and the core. The bright green tank is the 3d printed item, which bolts to the base plate. There is also a piece of 19mm tube that is epoxied into the tank to take the water pipe.
The two threaded tubes are also glued into the tank, and these project into the center bore of the core and are sealed with an o-ring in the groove. they are threaded to suit some quick release connectors. These provide a separate water system down the center of the cores. The angle bracket is a 'belt and braces' support for the outlet tube. I wasn't sure how strong the 3D print would be, so I added this to support it and to also to enable a higher clamping force with the bolts.
The other end was basically a mirror image but I added a sensor block so I could measure the water temps. The main difference on this end, is on the centre water system. 3d printed an end plate with a transfer passage in so the water could travel down one core and back along the other one.
This shows the whole assembly together, with the cores and the M6 studding that clamps the two to the plenum. The two pipes on the left are for the Chargecooler water, and the two quick release connectors are for the extra system.
This is the lot all assembled to the plenum, and even shows the air inlet temp sensor fitted near the throttle body holes.
Cheers
Eric
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Eric Morrey
Rawlson Imp Turbo
'Irish' Clan
Rover 75 waft-mobile
Hillclimb Clan - Resting
Reliant Scimitar GTE se5a - Resting
Rawlson Imp Turbo
'Irish' Clan
Rover 75 waft-mobile
Hillclimb Clan - Resting
Reliant Scimitar GTE se5a - Resting