BKS974c

Lotus-e-Clan · Post by **Lotus-e-Clan** » Sun Mar 25, 2012 10:31 pm

All sounds good.

The digital DC controller has a much better "control programme" than my analogue DC controller....the digital one locks on better to the target temp. Having said that, since fitting the speed controller to my booster pump circuit it's ironed out the lumpiness of the main DC analogue controller.

bks974c · Post by **bks974c** » Sun Apr 01, 2012 8:28 pm

Today out competing on Monkland Sporting Car Clubs PCT -great day out.

Four hills each run twice in the morning and twice in the afternoon - managed to clean them all at least once during the day and the only competitor to clean
hill 2 in the afternoon.

Need to pull the engine out and change the clutch as slipping under high loads and lower the front but will wait for a nice day hopefully next week sometime.

Scott

ImpManiac · Post by **ImpManiac** » Mon Apr 02, 2012 5:00 pm

Well done indeed, Scott!

IM

Lotus-e-Clan · Post by **Lotus-e-Clan** » Mon Apr 02, 2012 5:33 pm

I guess the one you cleaned that no one else did needed MAXIMUM ATTACK FULLY COMMITTED.

And no one is as fully committed as you Scott!

And now the clutch knows it too..

bks974c · Post by **bks974c** » Mon Apr 02, 2012 11:28 pm

Lotus-e-Clan wrote:I guess the one you cleaned that no one else did needed MAXIMUM ATTACK FULLY COMMITTED.

And no one is as fully committed as you Scott!

And now the clutch knows it too..

Peter

How did you know

Yes, they changed the hill in the afternoon because it was being cleaned by most cars, the new finish was a good 75 + degree slope and my technique was to make a full power attack and launch myself up the slope - got a 1 on the first attempt and a zero on the second certainly no subtlety involved.

The clutch has been iffy for a while but only slips under duress but will sort before next event.

Scott

bks974c · Post by **bks974c** » Tue Apr 10, 2012 9:19 pm

Got bored with the bodywork on GLS and as the sun had come out and dried up the rain I decided to do the clutch so after hunting for the spare keys due to the others having gone walkies got down to it and some 3 -3 1/2 hours later including a coffee break its got a new clutch plate - the original worn flush with the rivets, hence the sliping under duress - and all back in.

Next on the list is some mods to the throttle position as too high in relation to the brake pedal .

Scott

bks974c · Post by **bks974c** » Wed Apr 11, 2012 9:06 pm

Sorted throttle position by glueing a piece of wood to limit the return - high tech solutions

then adjusted cable to achieve full opening as the pedal touches the floor.

Next was to lower the front ride height but screwing down the spring platforms results in too much negative camber so the kingpin carrier mod needed reversed - the washer was moved to the bottom but resulted in 2-3 degrees of positive camber with the springs platform fully down on RAC springs.

Two choices either reduce the thickness of the spacer by using two spacers one on top and one on the bottom - too much faffing about so will try using Monte springs. Will see if this results in an appropriate ride height once the camber is set at 1-2 degrees negative.

Scott

Meltdown · Post by **Meltdown** » Wed Apr 11, 2012 10:18 pm

Two spacers might be the better solution if you need the spring travel. Use superglue to hold them on the stub axle carrier rather than weld/braze, then things can be altered after just a smart tap with a chisel. Or go for a threaded fully adjustable jobby

bks974c · Post by **bks974c** » Fri Apr 27, 2012 8:06 pm

BKS performed faultlessly last weekend at Imp Ecosse. Looks at lot better with the front end lowered.

Next event is the Berwick Classic, a two day event starting in Morpeth just north of Newcastle 150 miles 5 regularities 9 tests on the Saturday finishing in Berwick. Restarts from Berwick on the Sunday with 2 regularities and 13 tests finishing in Dunbar, with the multiple venues it going to be easier to drive the car to and hopefully from the event

Today changed the oil and filters then replaced the gearbox mounts in an attempt to cure the judder on power take offs - this cured the problem

however the mounts are only a couple of years old and have partly delaminated - has anyone tried solid mounts

as the car is full of rattles already might be worth a try as won't need replacing in the future.

May looks to be a busy month with the Berwick then the following Saturday we are providing imps for a wedding and Sunday a grass Autotest and a track day on the Tuesday and then on the Sunday attending a show in Stirling. Phew !

Scott

Post by **Lars Hagermark** » Sat Apr 28, 2012 12:44 am

bks974c wrote:... has anyone tried solid mounts

Wouldn't the gearbox lugs (solid metal) have to take the strain of engine & gearbox "twisting" then?

bks974c · Post by **bks974c** » Sat Apr 28, 2012 9:27 am

Lars Hagermark(DJH705) wrote:
bks974c wrote:... has anyone tried solid mounts
Wouldn't the gearbox lugs (solid metal) have to take the strain of engine & gearbox "twisting" then?

Yes, will have a think about that - maybe rose joint it

Scott

Lotus-e-Clan · Post by **Lotus-e-Clan** » Sat Apr 28, 2012 9:34 am

I've used the "u" shaped two piece box mounts which are connected by a bolt through ordinary suspension metalastic bushes.

These ARE definitely stiffer! Even if your engine is running on 2 cylinders there is NO TWIST or judder in the drivetrain!

The only reason I took them off is that for road use, with straight cut gears, the noise transmission was too intrusive.

BTW Moose used to be able to supply these (I got mine from Ron at ImpSeed many years ago..)

bks974c · Post by **bks974c** » Sat Apr 28, 2012 5:35 pm

Lotus-e-Clan wrote:I've used the "u" shaped two piece box mounts which are connected by a bolt through ordinary suspension metalastic bushes.

These ARE definitely stiffer! Even if your engine is running on 2 cylinders there is NO TWIST or judder in the drivetrain!

The only reason I took them off is that for road use, with straight cut gears, the noise transmission was too intrusive.

BTW Moose used to be able to supply these (I got mine from Ron at ImpSeed many years ago..)

I have seen Mikes once but can't remember the detail. Pic would be helpful

Scott

Lotus-e-Clan · Post by **Lotus-e-Clan** » Sat Apr 28, 2012 5:41 pm

I just knew you'd say that! I looked for a pic of mine but seems I haven't taken one yet...I'll go see if the camera has battery and get back..

Lotus-e-Clan · Post by **Lotus-e-Clan** » Sat Apr 28, 2012 6:02 pm

there you go...

As you can see they are "handed" (pic 1).

The spacer nut bodge on the chassis mounting bolt is to stop the bolt pressing on the bush carrier then tightened. If it does, then the mounts are TOO solid and noise transmission is far worse. (you could cut the bolt but I didn't want to given it's a "special" with a pointed end).

bks974c · Post by **bks974c** » Sat Apr 28, 2012 6:12 pm

Cheers, fancy selling them if too noisy for you. If not I have some nice bushes (void bushes actually solid ones from MK5 cortina) just need some matching tube and a little fabrication.

Scott

Lotus-e-Clan · Post by **Lotus-e-Clan** » Sat Apr 28, 2012 6:18 pm

I'm keeping hold of them in case I fit the non- straight cut box at some stage.

bks974c · Post by **bks974c** » Mon May 07, 2012 5:11 pm

Well weekend of mixed fortunes - after the Saturday event we were 5th overall and after the Sunday were still 5th overall and got an award for 3rd in class

The test were brilliant with challenging regularities however started to spot a touch of mayonaise in the filler cap at lunch on the Saturday - as it was very cold and the regularity was long though it might be just condensation as only required a little water. At the finish topped up again, bit more this time. You can see where this is going by the end on the Sunday I was putting in 3lts at a time

but made it to the end and drove it home.

Engine out and in bits, the problem is 2 rusted out wills ring caused by not using antifreeze at some time (not by me I might add). Engine will now get a full rebuild new shell rings etc and I'll have the head check for flatness.

So thats the autotest and track night off - next event probably Lake District Classic in July.

Scott

Lotus-e-Clan · Post by **Lotus-e-Clan** » Mon May 07, 2012 5:27 pm

A about 3 years ago I had a WR corrode and (slightly) leak after less than 1000 mls with 50% Bluecol as coolant.

The long-term G15 owner camped next to me @ the Welsh National said he had the same problem and he suggested that WRs are now being made with inferior steel...he also said one of the Imp suppliers thought so too (I can't remember which one ...could have been Dennis Allt).

I'm thinking he may have a point. And if it is so, where can you buy pukka WRs these days?

moose · Post by **moose** » Mon May 07, 2012 5:31 pm

good result there shame about the engine, the gearbox mounts i designed are remarkably like the impseed ones only mine have a few subtle differances like the U cahnnnel i used has its sides milled square to prvent loading one side of the bush and i weld a captive stud (not enough thread depth i nthe steel) in the mount that goes to the car this requires the crossmember slotting, iuse thicker wall tube and the softest polyurethane bushes with stainless steel crush tubes machined to the correct length, i also replace the dowel with another bolt on the gearbox side. i made a few and tried them on e-bay priced at the same price as standard rubber ones (£2.50 each mount profit hope to sell enough pairs to make mine become free!) only interest i got was three people messaged me to say i was taking the p*&s with the price so that was the final straw (i have been right royally done over with other ideas and designs) with manufacturing anything for imps to sell on.

moose · Post by **moose** » Mon May 07, 2012 5:32 pm

http://beta.globalspec.com/FeaturedProd ... ls/47183/0

trelleborg are the main manufacturers

bks974c · Post by **bks974c** » Mon May 07, 2012 6:10 pm

The engine is a Gretham unit and has not been apart since the 80's as it was in the Green Clan when I bought it and the clan has only done 4500 miles the engine was 2nd hand when the clan was built but had only done a few thousand miles. This all seems correct looking at the internals/wear etc so the wills rings are likely to be the good ones.

As long as no other problems found I'll just consider a precauationary rebuild.

Mike

PM me if you still have any gearbox mounts left and a price.

Scott

moose · Post by **moose** » Mon May 07, 2012 8:02 pm

sorry scott used the last of the steel stock to make two new ones for my car as part of the re-build i also could not put my hands on the ones that came off if i find them i will be in touch and send them to you i have all the engineering drawings i had done to make them if you keep them to yourself you can havea copy of them

bks974c · Post by **bks974c** » Tue May 08, 2012 6:22 pm

Mike

Thanks for the offer but engineering drawing

far too technical for me

Scott

ImpManiac · Post by **ImpManiac** » Wed May 09, 2012 3:53 pm

Scott, a great result!

Very well done! Sorry to hear about the engine but at least it is fixable without drama.

Mike, depending on how much the transmission mounts were, I might have been interested.

Mine were sold to me a long time ago by a long since defunct Imp specialist and were sold as NOS Hillman Imp transmission mounts. By now, though, they are knocking on a bit... or a lot. I need to investigate suitable alternatives in the fullness of time, as in for when my car goes back together. I hope there are some solutions available.

IM

bks974c · Post by **bks974c** » Tue Jun 19, 2012 9:43 pm

Engine rebuilt and back in

Did 55 miles tonight running it in, will get some more mileage on it before Sundays run to the Moffat Car Rally. Seems much torquer - sub 4000rpm.

During the rebuild found a broken tappet but can't see it would have been running long like that. Also found 3 inlet valves with zero clearance (after grinding them in -all only needed very light lapping in) which I thought a bit unusual as its usually the exhausts that wear quicker.

Next event the Lake District classic in July.

Scott

Meltdown · Post by **Meltdown** » Tue Jun 19, 2012 10:22 pm

bks974c wrote:
Next event the Lake District classic in July.

Scott

Best of luck Scott. Go show Malcolm Wilson how it's done

bks974c · Post by **bks974c** » Fri Jul 20, 2012 4:54 pm

Last weekend was the Lake District Classic based in Penrith, never really happy with the car and I never really got into the groove. However we got to the end without incident although having the wrong version of map meant we got a little confused on one regularity. Got to chat with Mike (moose) at the finish who was navigating in a Beetle (at least the engines in the right place

) and found we had picked up a prize for best in tests, not quite as good as it sounds as the crews were only allowed one award so there were some quicker cars but I suppose I don't have to tell everyone that

This week cleaned and adjusted the brakes, changed the front shock as N/S leaking badly but it was like that before the event ( probably caused by the spring seat loosening and unscrewing allowing the shock to bottom out and damaging the seal on the Berwick). Put the old Spax on which are the short version and now have too much negative camber with the Monte's so going to put the RAC spring back on.

Not happy with the Webers so got out the other set and rebuilt them, £150 poorer - new throttle linkages, linkage rod, nut and washers (plus mesh covers to stop the ingress of foreign objects) to eliminate play in the linkage. Now I have a very light and smooth throttle operation and just back from a wee run, the cars transformed and delight to drive, copes with 25mph in top and then full throttle with clean pick up

and pulls cleanly in all gears and idles beautifully at 1100 rpm although it will happily sit at 850rpm but prefer the higher rpm as it keeps the oil pressure up and the alternator charging especially if the fan or heated screen on.

Settings for those interested

Engine 998 with R17 1.4 inlets 1.2 ? exhausts

Weber DCOE 40's
Chokes 30
Main F16 / 115
Air Corrector 170 ? if not 160 (but forgot to look which were fitted when out)
Idle 40F9
Acc Pump 35/10mm stroke
Acc Ret 50
Idle screws 1 3/4 turns

Next event - grass autotest at Coulter near bigger. This event has a special class for Bentley's - a sight to behold these vintage Bentleys being thrashed around the field.

The following weekend was to a track day at Crail but has been postponed so will have to wait for the Karting at the National for my next taste of motorsport.

Scott

bks974c · Post by **bks974c** » Fri Jul 20, 2012 5:04 pm

Oh forgot to mention the best fix of the day (cost wise anyway) - two wiring grommets behind the pins that secure the rear "clam shell" - stops it vibrating - so much quieter

Scott

ImpManiac · Post by **ImpManiac** » Fri Jul 20, 2012 5:06 pm

Well done on the prize for best in the tests!

Despite what you say, no doubt it was well-deserved.

Out of interest, which camshaft are you running again? I am sure you have said before somewhere but I am too idle to read the whole thread again to find out!

I like the sound of the grommet fix!

I hope to catch up with you at Cromford. I have your bodywork bits, remember!

IM

bks974c · Post by **bks974c** » Fri Jul 20, 2012 7:12 pm

Hi Paul

You only have to look back 2 posts its listed just above the carb settings but to save yourself even that effort its an R17

Yes, I had not forgotten about the arches - Thanks again. See you again at Cromford.

I like you won't have my Imp there but will be bringing an Imp with me

Scott

19James · Post by **19James** » Fri Jul 20, 2012 8:59 pm

bks974c wrote:
The following weekend was to a track day at Crail but has been postponed so will have to wait for the Karting at the National for my next taste of motorsport.

Should be good fun

ImpManiac · Post by **ImpManiac** » Fri Jul 20, 2012 10:22 pm

Cheers, Scott.

I should have checked a few posts above.

See you there, buddy.

IM

bks974c · Post by **bks974c** » Sun Jul 22, 2012 6:00 pm

Just back from the grass autotest and what a difference with the other webers on - the car is so drivable, the smooth throttle allowing it to power slide and then hold it in a drift, not always the quickest way round but so much fun

. Its also very nice to drive on the road although subjectively it seems less powerful at 4000rpm but much quicker at 5000rpm.

Scott

bks974c · Post by **bks974c** » Wed Aug 29, 2012 1:50 pm

Changed the 35 pump jets to 40 which seems to have improved pick up but has confirmed from a performace point of view that a lowered 3rd gear would be better, I have a Close ratio box thats just been rebuilt that I collected when at the National but it lacks the strengthen casing, which is essential for the events I'm currently doing so just leave as is.

This sunday the 2nd is the next event - The Durham Dales held at the Nissan Car Factory in Sunderland starting at 10am. The event uses the social club car park and the test track - spectators welcome but only at the car park.

Scott

Lotus-e-Clan · Post by **Lotus-e-Clan** » Wed Aug 29, 2012 2:55 pm

Just a thought Scott.

If making things richer improves pick-up it can be the case that more ign advance was needed at that particular point during the weaker set-up - simply because weak mixtures need more advance to completely burn than a richer mixture. You can't do much about part-throttle weaker mixtures though if using a non-vac competition dizzy - that's why I converted a 25D vac dizzy to a comp spec ignition curve (which improved drivability) but then went mapped and found out you can extract a bit more out of weaker part throttle mixtures using more ignition advance mapped to TPS%.

bks974c · Post by **bks974c** » Wed Aug 29, 2012 3:19 pm

Peter

You could be right, but to be honest I don't know how much is in my head. In 3rd gear the part throttle is superb and picks up slowly but without any hesitation or bog and then goes like stink from 4700 rpm with the other carb set up it seemed to come on the cam about 4000 but part throttle was good but not as good ask the current set up.

The dizzy has not been touched so settings remains the same. Although to add a variable I did fill up with Shell V Power today, usually use boggo unleaded and what difference that made along with the pump jets I'm not sure.

2nd gear pick up is better but think its because of the lower gear and 3rd just seems slower as it takes longer to get from say 2500 to 4500 due to the gearing.

The problem with driving a turbo diesel is it changes your perception. The important thing is I've convinced myself its better, ready for the weekends rally

Scott

bks974c · Post by **bks974c** » Tue Sep 04, 2012 9:21 pm

Down at Nissan Motors in Sunderland for the Durham Dales Classic Rally at the weekend, it used the car park at the social club and parts of their test track.

Mixed fortunes the car was performing extremely well good power and if I got it hooked up right able to perform full 360's round the cones however my sense of direction sometimes let me down

On the final test of the day I lost all the oil due to a dodgy seal on the oil filter - I can now confirm at 9000rpm it takes less than 2 minutes to empty 5lts of VR1.

As soon as I spotted the oil warning light shut it down before it made any funny noises and retired, stripped it yesterday and thought I'd almost got away scotfree as almost nothing shinny in the sump and BE 1 mint - 4 light wear and then 2 similar to 4 but .................. yes the famous No 3 a dark burnt looking colour and rough looking and the crank looked similar.

So removed the crank for a better look but did not really fancy taking off the head so removed the studs for the timing cover and removed the cover, worked very well.

Rather surprisingly the marks on the crank polished out, the discoloring and roughness was actually the top layers of the bearing material - the crank totally unmarked - very very lucky just shut it down as not 3 oil film failed but before it tore up the bearing.

Bottom end has been thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt with new bearings, oil pump and will collect new oil cooler and finish plumbing it in tomorrow.

Next event Speedfair at Knockhill this Saturday and Sunday.

colin rooney · Post by **colin rooney** » Tue Sep 04, 2012 9:28 pm

you luck boy scott hope you have a good run at knockhill

bks974c · Post by **bks974c** » Tue Sep 04, 2012 9:51 pm

Don't I know it

I'm going to wire the ignition through the oil pressure switch before the weekend - I doubt I will be that lucky again.

Scott

bks974c · Post by **bks974c** » Tue Sep 04, 2012 10:13 pm

Video from Berwick Classic Me at 7.40

The miss you can hear has been cured by changing the carbs although still 40 webers, something to do with fuel sloshing. It now means when you handbrake it and then apply power you can actually slide the car.

Scott

Lotus-e-Clan · Post by **Lotus-e-Clan** » Tue Sep 04, 2012 11:36 pm

It's good to be lucky. Every one deserves their fair share.

What kind of oil filter are you using?

bks974c · Post by **bks974c** » Wed Sep 05, 2012 8:48 am

WAS using spin on filter actually the large Volvo type. Will be going back to cartridges as never had a problem and have close on 80 in stock.

Part of the problem may have been we had been sitting for quite a while waiting our turn and the temp will have dropped, we were commited to a have a good go - high revs coldish oil = high oil pressure which may be responsible for the partly blown out seal.

Scott

Lotus-e-Clan · Post by **Lotus-e-Clan** » Wed Sep 05, 2012 9:41 am

Very useful info Scott for those using spin-ons.

IMO it's more evidence to support the unsuitability of the Volvo spin-on filter for the Imp engine.

I have a large diameter Volvo one on the Imp sport motor and it had very high cold oil pressure. Clearly, as discussed on other threads, the cold oil is bypassing the filter matrix via the internal "blocked filter" valve and apart from the resultant high systemic oil pressure's potential for blowing the seal, it's not good that some (or all) of the oil is bypassing the filter matrix when cold.

I reckon the original canister oil filter blocks will soon attract a premium on eBay!

benwick3 · Post by **benwick3** » Wed Sep 05, 2012 12:34 pm

Out of interest, do you have an adjustable oil pressure relief valve? Why do I ask? If adjusted too high at high revs the original oil canister holding the paper element can be blown off its seat with subsequent oil loss. I would expect the same to happen to a canister type filter as well.

Pete Richards

bks974c · Post by **bks974c** » Wed Sep 05, 2012 5:56 pm

Yes it had an adjustable PRV but has not been adjusted in 6000 miles, but could be a factor as I've never adjusted the valve.

Scott

Lotus-e-Clan · Post by **Lotus-e-Clan** » Wed Sep 05, 2012 7:41 pm

So approximately what level of hot oil pressure have you been running for the past 6000 miles?

If your hot pressure is way too high then the adjustment is probably the issue.

But if you are in the range 60-75 psi when hot above 4000 rpm then I'd say the finger points back to the filter matrix not coping with cold 20/50 oil, rather than too high a setting on the PRV.

bks974c · Post by **bks974c** » Wed Sep 05, 2012 9:02 pm

Hot oil pressure was about 60 psi - however if that was the max pressure generated by the pump and the PRV was say 90 then how do we decide if the filter is also a problem

Never mind we have moved on - the cars running and got a few mile on it - any recommendations on running in new bearings - apart from dont rev it to 9500 immediately

The oil pressure is much more stable now - cold 52 psi mildly reved 60psi hot idle 45psi hot running 52psi so I guess the standard PRV is working correctly.
The last time it was rebuilt I reused the old oil pump as it checked out OK but I guess it wasn't as at idle it dropped to 20psi so although normal and acceptable the bottom end is now healthier than it was

Couple of worrying noises upon starting the engine - the first a metallic grinding noise - very worrying

but turned out to be the Alternator when tightening the pivot bolt it was straining the casing and causing something to rub internally - sorted by loosening the rear mounting to block bolts then tightening it all up before the rear mounts.

The other a knock but using the old screwdriver stethoscope its not internal

and besides it was there before so not important.

Tomorrow check it over and set it up properly and get a few more miles on it before the weekend. Oh and wire the ignition through the oil pressure sender Scott

Lotus-e-Clan · Post by **Lotus-e-Clan** » Thu Sep 06, 2012 11:43 am

bks974c wrote:Hot oil pressure was about 60 psi - however if that was the max pressure generated by the pump and the PRV was say 90 then how do we decide if the filter is also a problem

Yes, it is a bit of a judgement call because there is the potential for more than one variable influencing the systemic oil pressure (oil temp, bearing condition, PRV operation, filter matrix pore size and blocked filter bypass valve operation).

Because you have re-built the engine it's difficult to directly compare the effect of the two filter blocks especially as you were running modified PRVs. Noddy however, did a straight filter block change (std PRVs) and it cured the very high cold oil pressure he was getting with the spin-on, so my questions were based on his direct evidence, plus mine and other folks high cold pressure issues with spin-ons.

To my mind as long as the PRV is working AND your bearings are (were) good, 60 psi HOT oil pressure is not the maximum pressure that your oil pump can deliver per se. You can be fairly certain that if you were getting a maximum of 60 psi hot all the way from 4000 rpm to 9000 rpm then the PRV IS working and set to (approx) 60 psi (assuming your bearings were not already knackered and acting as multiple pressure relief valves!).

If however, the HOT pressure is 60 psi @ 4k rpm but rises to 90 psi @ 9k rpm then I'd say the PRV setting is set to 90 psi (or higher) or was never going to open at all. ie You only see the max pressure that the pump can deliver when you get to maximum engine revs in the absence of pressure relief.

When the oil is cold, IF it is able to pass through the filter matrix, then the max cold pressure you SHOULD see is equivalent to the PRV setting. In the case of unmodified PRVs (Noddys and on my Sport engine) that should be about 55 psi. I was seeing 80-90 psi during winter cold starts with a std 55 psi PRV because it would seem that the cold oil bypassed the spin-on Volvo matrix and therefore bypassed the PRV too.

If you haven't adjusted the PRV in 6000 miles and the bearings were good at the time of adjustment, then I'd say that 60 psi hot should approximately represent the PRV setting and so the high cold pressures you were getting points to the blocked filter bypass valve opening.

BTW AFAIK bearings should not need to be run-in - they shouldn't be touching the crank!

bks974c · Post by **bks974c** » Thu Sep 06, 2012 5:58 pm

The bearings were new replaced in the last 1000miles so may have contributed to the story.

Can't tell you what the PRV was set at regards pressure but was set at 3 1/2 turns from contact with the spring maybe someone else has info they can relate this to.

Scott